Monarch Pass

April 04, 2026

Our return from Utah took Melissa and I along the southern route through Colorado to avoid having to drive the steep passes of the central Rocky Mountains. Melissa drove the 13 miles (21 km) of 6% grade on I-17 that drops into the Verde Valley and neither of us were excited about a repeat. Things began as we took US Highway 50 out of Grand Junction, encountering rolling hills but nothing we could not handle. Then we saw a sign that said Blue Mesa Summit (elevation 8,704 feet or 2,653 m) was just ahead. The pass divides the watersheds of Little Cimarron River to the west and Blue Creek to the east. This stretch is approximately 12 to 15 miles (19 to 24 km) long and has sections with grades of 6 to 10%. Having ridden Verde Valley the previous week I was prepared for Blue Mesa and drove through without much concern. I assumed we had made it through the lower Rockies, and I breathed a sigh of relief. Little did I know looming 50 miles (80 km) ahead was Monarch Pass.

When I went online, I found Monarch Pass (elevation 11,312 feet / 3,448 m) is a high mountain pass in the Rocky Mountains of central Colorado, US. The pass is located on the Continental Divide of the western US at the southern end of the Sawatch Range along the border between Gunnison and Chaffee counties, approximately 25 miles (40 km) west of the town of Salida. The pass carries US Highway 50 over the Sawatch Range providing a route between Tomichi Creek in the upper basin of the Gunnison River on the west and the South Arkansas River on the east. The pass can be traversed by all vehicles under most conditions and is generally open year-round. However, 7% grades exist and the area is prone to heavy winter snowfall which often results in temporary closures during severe winter storms. The highway does have some three-lane sections and runaway truck ramps are located about halfway down both the eastern and western sides of the pass. Ten curves have a 35 mph (56 kph) advisory speed and one 30 mph (48 kph). The West Descent has a 6% grade for 9 miles. The East Descent has a 6% grade for 10 miles.

The climb up Monarch Pass begins at 8,184 feet (2494.5 m) and climbs over 3000 feet (914 m) to the summit with a steady 5-8% grade. We were lucky enough to be traversing the eastern descent, so we got that extra mile (1.6 km) of steep grade. Monarch Pass is rated as the #19 most feared road to drive in the US, especially during the winter due to heavy snowfall, strong winds, and several known avalanche areas. The steep grades and sharp curves combine with a lack of shoulder or guard rails to make this route particularly hazardous. As we neared the summit, we saw signs for “active snow removal” ahead. The summit was covered in snow (thankfully not on the road) and a dense fog set in. I did not know if that might be better as I could not see the drive awaiting us. The fog lifted as we descended and Melissa looked out the side window into the 300 foot (91 m) drop to the trees below. She kept her eyes directly ahead for the rest of the descent. We crept down the mountain, only periodically applying the brakes. A harrowing 25 minutes later we were down.

THOUGHTS: After Monarch Pass Melissa told me we are never going to take US Highway 50 again. The problem is, unless you avoid Colorado entirely you will need to take some risk to cross the Continental Divide. I had taken all these passes without incident when driving a car. It was vastly different in a motor home towing our Jeep. When we tried to find the number of annual fatalities on the road the site said, “it varied”, but they did occur “periodically”. Spending six weeks driving 5000 miles (2495 km) across much of the southern US (Arizona to Florida) gave me a new perspective on the drivers that supply the US with 72% of domestic tonnage (11 to 13 billion tons/10 to 12 m tonnes) annually, valued at more than US$13 trillion. These trucks do not stop on a dime, so give them a break. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Verde Valley

March 18, 2026

After battling the winds across the Panhandle region, we were home free as we climbed into the Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) forest that surrounds Flagstaff, Arizona. The Coconino National Forest is located within the world’s largest contiguous Ponderosa pine forest (yes, where the name Ponderosa Ranch comes from on the long-running TV series Bonanza). These dominant, tall trees are famous for their orange-brown, puzzle-like bark that smells like butterscotch or vanilla. We also passed three National Monuments along the route that were extant cliff dwellings of the prehistoric Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi). Like so many other first-time travelers to Arizona, we were surprised to find the dense forest of the Kaibab Plateau rather than the stark desert we associated with the state. As we traveled south out of Flagstaff the forests diminished and the saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) took over as we began to drop in elevation. The saguaro is the largest cactus in the US and acts as a vital, long-lived (up to 200 years) keystone species in the Sonoran Desert. While I had anticipated the saguaro, I was not prepared for the Verde Valley descent.

When I went online, I found the steep grade on Interstate 17 descending from Flagstaff toward Phoenix is often referred to as the Verde Valley grade or simply the I-17 mountain corridor. This stretch includes a sustained 6% grade for roughly 13 miles (21 km) between Flagstaff and Camp Verde, Arizona that requires runaway truck ramps. The stretch also includes another steep section for southbound traffic near Black Canyon City. The route is known for high speeds, steep inclines, and sharp curves and is often cited as one of the most treacherous connections in Arizona. While Flagstaff sits at 7000 feet (2133 m), Phoenix rests in the Verde Valley at an elevation of 1,086 feet (2133,6 m). Although only 145 miles (233 km) apart, the great difference in elevation result in drastic climate changes. Flagstaff is typically 20F to 25F degrees (36 C to 45C) cooler than Phoenix on any given day all year round. This was a descent we were unprepared for.

Our first indication of the Verde Valley downgrade was a sign saying, “6% grade ahead. Trucks and vehicles towing trailers use lower gears.” We were driving the RV and pulling our Jeep behind. We qualified for the warning. My first thought was I was glad I was not driving. Then, I wondered if I should offer to drive. Neither of us had driven anything close to these conditions, so I was not sure I could do anything better than Melissa. Instead of pulling over, Melissa asked for suggestions on how to drive. She slowed down and I clicked on the emergency flashers as we began our descent. The first thing we tried was shifting into 2nd gear. That did not last long as the engine RPM climbed close to the red line. I had just read an article online about the best way to slow your RV when on a steep grade and it suggested to make hard brakes followed by taking your foot off the brake. Melissa shifted into Drive and periodically punched the brake to slow down. There were also reprieves on the descent where it would level off or even ascend for short distances. Melissa did a great job, and we got down without incident.

THOUGHTS: Toward the end of the Verde Valley descent, we passed a truck parked along the side of the road with its brakes smoking. I was glad the driver was able to stop (and that we had avoided a similar situation). I was also proud of the way Melissa had handled driving. It was tense for me, and no doubt more so for Melissa. I knew we had to retrace this route on our way to Utah, but this time we will be going up, a whole new set of problems. This last month has been an amazing immersion into the diversity of the US. We traveled from the Ozarks to the Florida Atlantic coast, then to the high plateau and desert of Arizona. The people have been just as diverse. Rather than a detriment, diversity is what defines our nation. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

JL

February 26, 2026

A lot has happened since we set out on our first long distance RV trip last week. We spent the first night in a Love’s gas station parking lot, which was like camping in a parking lot (because it was). The next two nights we spent in a state park and private RV campground. Both were nice but closer quarters than we were used to (with our vast experience, haha). The drama started immediately. I set up the jeep as a toad (pulled) vehicle and installed the Blue Rhino barking system. For some reason I could not get the brake to secure. Since the dealer was on our way out of town, we decided to stop and ask what we were doing wrong. It turned out the “problem” was I had set the seat too close to the auto brake. The tech moved the seat back 1/4 inch (0.3 cm) and it worked fine. The next difficulty came as I tried to back the toad (jeep) and found when the transmission is disengaged the wheels lock in reverse. The final drama came on the third day of driving as the brake system kept turning off. I reset the jeep to ACC twice before giving up. When we arrived at our campsite, I found the battery on our jeep JL was completely dead.

When I went online, I found a Jeep JL battery dies in toad mode because the vehicle’s computer systems, especially the LED taillight system, remain active and wake up periodically. This causes a significant parasitic draw. The battery drawdown is compounded as the ignition needs to be left in accessory mode to power the supplemental braking systems. There are four systems that contribute to the drawdown. First is communication with the LED Taillights as the computer constantly checks for connected lights. LED lights have a low resistance which keeps the computer awake and drains the battery. Leaving the ignition in Accessory (ACC) or Run mode keeps electronic components powered by using the battery. Supplemental braking systems (like ours) can draw power from the Jeep battery if not properly set up or if they lack a dedicated charging line (ours does not). Finally, JL’s auxiliary battery system can also cause issues. These drained our battery.

When we disconnected the dead toad at the camp site Melissa and I were both trying to figure out how to get our Jeep JL started the following morning. We had AAA road assistance, so we thought of calling for a jump. We also have Good Sam assistance so we could call them as well. The problem would be waiting for the drivers to arrive to jump the vehicle. Then we thought we could ask the campground hosts for a jump. I always carry cables for situations just like this (from experience). We went to bed dreading the hassle that awaited us in the morning. During the night, I had an epiphany. While the toad may have been drained, the RV was not. I unhooked the toad, turned the RV around, and applied the jump. The jeep fired up and we were ready to go. However, we were still 200 miles (322 km) from our destination. Melissa decided to drive the Jeep to our next destination to maintain the charge and avoid the drawdown.

THOUGHTS: Now that we knew what was causing the problem with our JL, we needed to figure out how to fix it. We could install a 12-volt charge line from the RV to keep the battery charged, install a wiring harness that disconnects the Jeep’s lights from the computer, or install a battery disconnect switch. I asked our RV mechanic if I could do any of these and he said, “probably not” (he knows me too well). You could also just make sure the ignition is off (not in ACC) after setting the transfer case to neutral, but this will not allow the brake system to operate. We decided to Jerry-rig the system by running the engine every time we stopped. “Jerry-rigging” refers to a makeshift, temporary repair, and originates from 18th-century nautical terminology where a “jury mast” was a temporary mast. Bailing wire and duct tape do wonders, but you ultimately need to get things fixed right. That is also true for relationships. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Glockenspiel

December 04, 2025

Our walking tour of Munich was timed so the first section of our walking tour would arrive in the city center in time for the sounding of the bells at noon. On arrival our guide asked if we had seen the bells of the Ankeruhr clock in Vienna (what?? must have missed it). This unusual Art Nouveau work was created by Franz von Matsch in the period between 1911 to 1914, and Franz Morawetz the court clockmaker had made the clockwork mechanism. Although the city square was the site for the largest Christmas market in Munich, the bells had nothing to do with the markets. The bells and figures were added to the town hall in 1908 and consist of 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures. The mechanism is powered by solar power and is only semi-automatic, as it needs a player to turn the levers at the exact right times 364 days a year. The glockenspiel at Munich is the largest in Germany and the fourth largest in Europe.

When I went online, I found glockenspiel is a percussion instrument that originally consisted of a set of graduated bells, and later a set of tuned steel bars (a metallophone). These are struck with wood, ebonite, or even metal hammers. The bars are arranged in two rows, the second corresponding to the black keys of the piano. The name glockenspiel is German (“bell play”) and refers to the sound of small bells. The very first instruments to carry this name did indeed consist of a set of small bells which were played either by a group of musicians or struck by means of a complex mechanism. At the end of the 17th century steel bars began to replace the bells. Initially they were only a substitute for real bells, but this arrangement of metal bars soon developed into a musical instrument of its own and retained the name “glockenspiel”. Like the xylophone, the glockenspiel is a great favorite with children. Carl Orff used it from the 1930’s for his Method. The children’s instruments have a smaller range, are tuned diatonically, and have bars resting over a frame like a trough. Lower-pitched glockenspiels have short resonators and are generally known as metallophones.

The glockenspiel of the Munich New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) on the central square (Marienplatz) attract huge crowds every day for reenactments of two events from Munich’s city history. The first is the wedding of Duke Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine, in February 1568 when a jousting match in honor of the bride and groom took place on the square. The Bavarian knight (of course) triumphed over his opponent from Lorraine. The lower floor shows the famous Coopers’ Dance (Schäfflertanz) is a guild dance of the coopers (Barrel makers) originally started in Munich. Early documented cases of Schäfflertanz are dated by 1702 when the Münich magistrate approved the performance of the dance as a well-established tradition. For a long time the date 1517 was prevalent in the literature originating the legend that the tradition started after the 1517 plague to revive the spirits of the people “to lure them out of their houses”. There are no records of any plague in Münich at this period. Still, the 500th anniversary was celebrated in 2017. There is no clear indication of the origin of the seven-year cycle, but since the early 1800’s the custom has spread, and it is now a common tradition over the region of Old Bavaria.

THOUGHTS: We waited in the city square to see the glockenspiel along with a select group of 3000 of our closest friends. We had been told the figures did not move until the third song. First came the church bells (always the priority) followed by a introductory number. The third number set the first group of jousters in motion and the fourth featured the dancing coopers. The finally was the cock crowing three times. Our guide had warned us that time had not been good on the crow mechanism and he was right. It sounded more like the honking of a goose. It felt good to join others in a century-old tradition. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Holiday Travel

November 23, 2025

Melissa and I decided to go two days early for our trip up the Danube River and set our flights to arrive on Sunday prior to embarking Tuesday afternoon. Our 11:30 am flight meant we began our trip taking the kids for boarding on Friday evening. Loki has recently become frantic with visits to the Vet and again became frantic as we dropped him off at the kennel. I watched as he got past the first door and by the second he was straining to get inside. That made me feel better about leaving the kids for an extended visit. Saturday began with a 1-1/2-hour drive to our connecting airport, a two hour wait for the plane to depart (customs was a breeze), and another 1-1/2 hours to arrive in O’Hare. Since we had a 4-hour layover, we proceeded to the airlines lounge. This was a first for us and I was pleased with the comfort, food, and drink offered for free (for members). We sat as a steady stream of people came in and out, while another steady stream was turned away without the proper credentials. We had planned on early travel as flights in the US have been disrupted by the government shutdown, but our greater concern was the potential crush of holiday travel.

When I went online, I found US airlines are predicting another record Thanksgiving holiday travel season. Airlines for America, a lobbying group representing the largest US carriers, predicted Thursday that airlines will carry more than 31 million people between Friday, November 21, and Monday, December 1. The busiest days are expected to be the Sunday after Thanksgiving (30th), with about 3.4 million people flying, and the Monday after Thanksgiving (31st), with around 3.1 million passengers. The airlines have expressed relief after the longest-ever government shutdown ended November 12th. Shortages of air traffic controllers delayed and canceled flights, disrupting travel plans for some 6 million people. The industry is pushing lawmakers to pass legislation to ensure that air traffic controllers are paid in the event of another shutdown. The latest bill only funds the government through January, so industry members are hoping to avoid a repeat of the closure just before winter break and spring break seasons begin.

We arrived at our hotel in Budapest after 20 hours of holiday travel. This included two drives (car 1-1/2 hours and taxi-1 hour), two layovers (6 hours), two short hops (O’Hare – 1-1/2 hours and Budapest – 1 hour), and an overseas flight to Munich (9 hours). We were tired but thankful the trip had been relatively easy. We had purchased economy plus (for legroom) on the overseas flight. I got up several times to go to the restroom (actually to stretch my legs) but it was still uncomfortable. We were both exhausted when we reached the hotel and after check-in decided to eat in the hotel bar. We ordered a cheese and meat plate along with a variety of humus dips. I was so tired during the meal I almost fell asleep. By the time we went to our room it was 5:00 pm local time, but we decided it was late enough to go to bed.

THOUGHTS: You have got to love holiday travel. I went right to sleep but woke with horrific cramps in my left calf. Apparently, I had not moved enough on the flight. I looked at my watch, and it said 8:20. Even though the blackout curtains were pulled it seemed like there should be morning light coming through from outside. That was when Melissa told me I had only been asleep for an hour. Since I was wide awake, I wondered how I was ever going to get through the night. Then I realized in my new time zone it was still early. I putzed around for a couple of hours and then went back to bed. Even as I bemoaned the difficulty faced arriving at my trip destination, I realized how easy it was compared to earlier travelers. It took four to six months to cover the 2,170-mile (3,490 km) to traverse the Oregon trail by wagon and 20,000 to 30,000 people died (1 in 10). I guess cramps are not all that bad. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Trails

October 10, 2025

We had decided to take our second trip out in our newly acquired RV just as the US government decided it was not in their (our?) best interest in keeping the government operational. While many of the National Parks are at least partially open, we learned the Corp of Engineers location we planned to visit was shut down. We have some neighbors who were also planning on the same trip and learned they had booked a private location about an hour away. We already had two events scheduled for the week and thankfully these were both centrally located to the RV Park. Melissa made reservations and we took off Tuesday morning. The park described itself as “rustic”, and when our neighbors arrived, they called to make sure we were comfortable with what that meant. Melissa and I both thought the unpaved location along the Mulberry River was going to be perfect. There was even a trail/road that led back along the river that was perfect (and away from other campers) for walking the kids. The trail provided a moderate walk that wound through the trees and wildflowers.

When I went online, I found a trail, also known as a path or track, is an unpaved lane or small paved road generally not intended for usage by motorized vehicles, and usually passing through a natural area. However, it is sometimes applied to highways in North America. In the UK and Ireland, a path or footpath is the preferred term for a pedestrian lane or hiking trail. In the US historically, the term was used for a route into or through wild territory used by explorers and migrants (i.e., the Oregon Trail). A “trace” is sometimes used as a synonym for trail (i.e., the Natchez Trace). Some trails are restricted to only walkers, or cyclists, or horses (equestrians). During the winter these same trails can be used for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Others, like the bridleways in the UK, are shared and are jointly used by walkers, cyclists, and equestrians. Although most trails ban motorized use, there are unpaved trails used by dirt bikes, quad bikes, and other off-road ehicles. This is especially true for extreme sports and rally races. In places like the mountainous Europe (Alps), trails are also used by alpine agrarian communities for moving cattle and other livestock.

Over the last several days I have been walking the trail along the river marveling at the amazing views. The track passes above the river and in places rises on the bluffs that overlook the water. Being an avid fisherperson, this has given me pause to dream of climbing down the slope and fishing the fast water and pools that dot the river’s course. Several days I did exactly that, although I did so by following the rocks at th e water’s edge. My other pleasure has been seeing the patches of Tatarian Aster (Aster tararicus) and goldenrod (genus, Solidago) that line the trail. This is the freedom and escape we had hoped to find when we decided to start RVing.

THOUGHTS: Following most modern-day trails is a far cry from the trails that cut through the thick forests and lush grassland that filled North America when the European explorers and settlers first arrived. These trails possessed unseen dangers (animals and nature) along with the impressive beauty. Still, I can get a glimpse of the wonder of days gone by. We need to work hard, an together, to preserve those areas that still exist for future generations to enjoy. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.