March 18, 2026

After battling the winds across the Panhandle region, we were home free as we climbed into the Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) forest that surrounds Flagstaff, Arizona.   The Coconino National Forest is located within the world’s largest contiguous Ponderosa pine forest (yes, where the name Ponderosa Ranch comes from on the long-running TV series Bonanza).  These dominant, tall trees are famous for their orange-brown, puzzle-like bark that smells like butterscotch or vanilla.  We also passed three National Monuments along the route that were extant cliff dwellings of the prehistoric Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi).  Like so many other first-time travelers to Arizona, we were surprised to find the dense forest of the Kaibab Plateau rather than the stark desert we associated with the state.  As we traveled south out of Flagstaff the forests diminished and the saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) took over as we began to drop in elevation.  The saguaro is the largest cactus in the US and acts as a vital, long-lived (up to 200 years) keystone species in the Sonoran Desert.  While I had anticipated the saguaro, I was not prepared for the Verde Valley descent.    

When I went online, I found the steep grade on Interstate 17 descending from Flagstaff toward Phoenix is often referred to as the Verde Valley grade or simply the I-17 mountain corridor.  This stretch includes a sustained 6% grade for roughly 13 miles (21 km) between Flagstaff and Camp Verde, Arizona that requires runaway truck ramps.  The stretch also includes another steep section for southbound traffic near Black Canyon City.  The route is known for high speeds, steep inclines, and sharp curves and is often cited as one of the most treacherous connections in Arizona.  While Flagstaff sits at 7000 feet (2133 m), Phoenix rests in the Verde Valley at an elevation of 1,086 feet (2133,6 m).  Although only 145 miles (233 km) apart, the great difference in elevation result in drastic climate changes.  Flagstaff is typically 20F to 25F degrees (36 C to 45C) cooler than Phoenix on any given day all year round.  This was a descent we were unprepared for.

Our first indication of the Verde Valley downgrade was a sign saying, “6% grade ahead.  Trucks and vehicles towing trailers use lower gears.”  We were driving the RV and pulling our Jeep behind.  We qualified for the warning.  My first thought was I was glad I was not driving.  Then, I wondered if I should offer to drive.  Neither of us had driven anything close to these conditions, so I was not sure I could do anything better than Melissa.  Instead of pulling over, Melissa asked for suggestions on how to drive.  She slowed down and I clicked on the emergency flashers as we began our descent.  The first thing we tried was shifting into 2nd gear.  That did not last long as the engine RPM climbed close to the red line.  I had just read an article online about the best way to slow your RV when on a steep grade and it suggested to make hard brakes followed by taking your foot off the brake.  Melissa shifted into Drive and periodically punched the brake to slow down.  There were also reprieves on the descent where it would level off or even ascend for short distances.  Melissa did a great job, and we got down without incident.

THOUGHTS: Toward the end of the Verde Valley descent, we passed a truck parked along the side of the road with its brakes smoking.  I was glad the driver was able to stop (and that we had avoided a similar situation).  I was also proud of the way Melissa had handled driving.  It was tense for me, and no doubt more so for Melissa.  I knew we had to retrace this route on our way to Utah, but this time we will be going up, a whole new set of problems.  This last month has been an amazing immersion into the diversity of the US.  We traveled from the Ozarks to the Florida Atlantic coast, then to the high plateau and desert of Arizona.  The people have been just as diverse.  Rather than a detriment, diversity is what defines our nation.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.