national-parks – A travelers odyssey

March 25, 2026

I moved to Salt Lake City in 1979 to attend graduate school. I grew up in Kansas (various), and was used to living in towns surrounded by agricultural fields or the remnants of the big bluestem (Andropogon gerardi) that dominated the tall grass prairie. What I found in Salt Lake was the Uinta Mountains on one side and a salt desert on the other. While I quickly adapted to the mountains (skiing) I did not like the desert, finding it hot, salty, and barren. After a few years I was drawn to the archeological sites of the four corners region and southeastern Utah (Anasazi cliff dwellings). I later worked for the Division of State History mapping and encoding sites and participated in several archeological surveys in the area. The more I worked in the area the more I was drawn to it. By the time I left for California I found it was the desert I missed the most. The largest city in the area at that time was the declining town of Moab with 4000 people.

When I went online, I found Moab is the largest city and county seat of Grand County and is known for its dramatic scenery. The population has risen from 4800 in 2010 to 5400 at the 2020 census. Moab attracts lover 3 million tourist annually, mostly visitors to the nearby Arches (4 miles/6.5 km) and Canyonlands (22 miles/35.5 km) National Parks. The town is also a popular base for mountain bikers who ride the extensive network of trails, including the Slickrock Trail. Off roaders also come to for guided Jeep tours and the annual Moab Jeep Safari. Moab has experienced a surge of second-home owners as the mild winters, and enjoyable summers attract people to the area. This mirrors other resort towns in the American West and controversy has risen over the new residents and their houses, many of which are unoccupied most of the year. Moab citizens are concerned the town is changing like the towns of Vail and Aspen in Colorado. This means skyrocketing property values, a rising cost of living, and corresponding effects on local low- and middle-income workers.

I was anxious to revisit the quaint town of Moab and enjoy the solitude of the surrounding desert. Melissa had been talking about visiting the area I loved ever since she heard stories of the many weekend trips taken by me and my son Alex. Often, we would not see another human from the time we left the main road until we returned. The desolation and isolation that had initially turned me off became the basis for my attraction. What we found now was dramatically different. Construction started several miles outside of town, with light industrial sites, gas stores, and fast-food chains. These were interspersed with motels, residences, and RV parks. The street was lined with businesses offering scenic tours by jeep and mountain bike. If you did not want a tour, you could rent either to go on your own. There were offers for ziplines along the canyon rim and plane rides. What struck me most was the change from quiet isolation to the hundreds of people walking or biking along the main throughfare. While the residents may be only 1500 more than I remembered, tourists overwhelmed the city. Moab embraced the niche market of adventure tourism.

THOUGHTS: Melissa and I camped our RV about 15 miles (24 km) north of Moab in the new (2021) Utahraptor (yes, found there) State Park. This was centrally located to spend time at two sites I fondly remember, Dead Horse Overlook and Arches National Park. We found Arches often has long wait lines to enter (exceeding 60 minutes from spring through fall) and the park temporarily restricts access if parking lots fill up. We opted to go straight to Dead Horse. Here again we found 100’s of people. Most were hiking or mountain biking the roads and trails that wind through the park. My recollection was seeing one or two other cars at the overlook. While you can go home again, it may not be recognizable. Still, the trip was worth it and the scenery spectacular! It was worth the crowds. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

March 19, 2026

Several days ago, we camped in the Homolovi State Park in Winslow, Arizona. I was excited to camp in the park as it contains the remains of two pueblos along with a petroglyph panel. Homolovi now serves as a center of research for the late migration period of the Hopi from the 1200’s to the late 1300’s. The park is over 4000 acres (1618.74 ha) and includes a visitor center and museum, various trails and the campground where we spent the night. We arrived early as I wanted to explore the ruins and walk the trails. As we entered the gated park, we saw a sign indicating it was an open range (animals roam free inside the fenced area). We explored the partially excavated Homolovi II site and then took the kids for a walk around the parking lot. The docent at the museum had shown me where the petroglyph (pecked rather than drawn) panel was located and that became our second stop. On the way to the ruin, we noticed several animals grazing off in the brush. On our return the animals had moved closer to the road, and we saw they were wild burros.

When I went online, I found Wild burros (Equus asinus) in Arizona are primarily found in the western desert mountains, most famously in the historic mining town of Oatman, where they roam freely and interact with visitors. The burros are descendants of 19th-century mining pack animals. The protected animals can also be found near Lake Pleasant, near Peoria, Arizona. While the burros are a popular attraction, they are wild. They can bite or kick and feeding them is discouraged to protect their health and safety. The burros are often found in various Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas in western Arizona and are particularly active during early morning and late afternoon. There are over 10,000 estimated wild burros in Arizona, which is far above the sustainable level for the environment (less than 1,500), leading to BLM efforts to manage the population and reduce their impact on the desert. The burros are protected under the federal Wild and Free-Roaming Horses and Burros Act (Public Law 92-195) of 1971, which means it is illegal to harass or harm them. BLM suggests the best way to see the animals is from a distance, without pulling off the road.

While the burros we saw at Homolovi were from a distance, we found them close when we arrived at our Lake Pleasant campground. There was a group of three who were feeding among the campers across from where we were assigned. I had been wary of camping at several of the “Horse Motel” campgrounds set up to accommodate equestrian travelers along our route as I was unsure how the kids would react to the large animals. Now I had no choice as we were invading their protected land. We kept the kids inside while we set up camp and placed the night shade over the front windshield of the RV. I checked outside before taking the kids for a walk to burn off energy before feeding them. We all settled in together inside the RV as it was too hot to be outside. Later that evening I put on their lease to take them out for a final trip. I always go out before them to make sure I have control of the lease. When I opened the door, Zena nearly knocked me down as she tore through the opening with her VERY loud protective bark. One of the burros was standing about 15 feet (3 m) from our front door. I do not know who was more surprised, the burro, the dogs, or me.

THOUGHTS: While wild burros are predated by mountain lions, this is not enough to keep their population in check. The Wild and Free-Roaming Horse and Burro Act charged BLM with managing wild burros in a thriving natural ecological balance with other plants and animals to maintain healthy ecosystems. Wild burros removed from management areas due to overpopulation, emergency situations, or through nuisance are available for adoption through the BLM’s Wild Horse and Burro Adoption Program. Protecting an invasive species is always a fine line. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.