Canyon

May 29, 2026

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Melissa and I took two long trips this Spring in the RV. We took two trips last Fall to begin RVing. Both trips were less than 100 miles (161 km) and consisted of three days during the middle of the week. We did not pull a vehicle (“toad”) on the first trip and any missed items we went without. We towed the Jeep the second time and were able go into town pick up needed items, including a hose extension for water. We thought we had worked out the kinks and left in February on a 1100-mile (1770 km), 2-1/2 week trip to Florida, but struggled keeping the toad battery charged and had to buy a sewer extension. We thought we solved the battery issue during the week home before we left in March for a 1200-mile (1931 km), 3-week trip to Arizona. We did not. Every time we left the toad attached overnight it still ran down the battery. To top it off, the city water connection valve stripped and we could not connect to the camp hoses. We had planned on stopping at the Grand Canyon, but our main sights were set on my old stomping ground in Utah, so we powered on by.

When I went online, I found a canyon forms by a combination of flowing water, tectonic uplift, and weather acting on the earth’s surface over millions of years. The process of canyon formation often begins with downcutting as rivers and streams carve deep, steep-sided valleys into the earth’s bedrock. The rushing water uses gravel, sand, and rocks it carries like liquid sandpaper to grind away the rock beneath its flow. For massive, deep canyons to form, the ground beneath the river must be pushed upward by shifting tectonic plates (tectonic uplift). This uplift makes the river steeper, increasing its speed and cutting power. Weathering and erosion are the third force acting to create a canyon. Rainwater seeps into cracks in the rock, where it freezes, expands, and breaks the rock apart. Wind, flash floods, and rockslides further widen the canyon walls and wash the debris downstream, preventing the valley from simply becoming a flat slope. All three processes occur simultaneously, and when you add the dimension of time you get a canyon.

It was appropriate that after missing a tour of the Grand Canyon that an article on how it was formed appeared in a USA Today article in our local newspaper several weeks after we returned. A study published April 16 in the journal Science provides one answer to the mystery. According to the study, the Colorado River did not always flow through the canyon and instead began to carve its path around 5.6 million years ago after an ancient lake overflowed. Ryan Crow, co-author and researcher with the US Geological Survey, said scientists have known the river existed 11 million years ago in western Colorado and that it did not exit through the Grand Canyon until after 5.6 million years ago. The mystery was where did it go? Crow said the study tested the idea that the river flowed into the Bidahochi basin in northeastern Arizona. Sand deposits in the ancient lake showed a clear Colorado River signature, indicating the river flowed into the lake. As the lake rose, a spillover became the primary process that established the river’s course through the (emerging) canyon. About two million years later the lake no longer existed and the Colorado River system was fully born.

THOUGHTS: My son and I went to the south rim of the Grand Canyon when he was a child. We did not take the day long hike/mule ride to the bottom but were able to peer into its massive depths. Our takeaway from our two RV trips was that we needed to be more leisurely when we travel. We missed quite a few historic/archeological features because we felt pressed to reach our reserved campground. We assumed if we did not reserve sites, we would not have a place to stay. While that was true for the state parks, every commercial park where we stayed had open spaces. In Europe we took time to “see stuff”, but at home we did not. Do not regret taking time to enjoy the wonder of where you are. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Snakehead

May 26, 2026

Last Friday Melissa and I decided to treat ourselves to a visit to a Wildlife Management Area (WMA) along the Arkansas River that has been getting constant sightings on the Arkansas Birders group. The area is not too far from our house, and I had even visited once before while looking for a place to fish. We did several errands on our way out of town and by the time we were leaving rain had started to fall. By the time we reached the WMA the rain was light but steady. The last section of the road was dirt but well maintained. This area in an old oxbow (curve) that has formed a lake apart from the main channel of the river. The WMA now has 2,180 acres (882 ha) and is primarily managed for migratory waterfowl and wetland restoration by the Arkansas Game and Fish (AG&F) Commission and Ducks Unlimited. This makes the site popular destination for local hunters and bird watchers. Despite all the amazing bird photos we had seen, we saw very few birds. The waterfowl that had been present when I last visited were non-existent (afraid to get wet?) and there were no birds fliting in the trees. As we drove slowly through the area we crossed over a bridge on a backwater section of the lake. I stopped because there were dozens of 1-pound (0.92-l) gas canisters floating in the water. Next to a sunken log in the bayou was a 30-inch (76 cm) snakehead.

When I went online, I found the northern snakehead (Channa argus) is a species of snakehead fish native to temperate East Asia, in China, Russia, North Korea, and South Korea. Their natural range goes from the Amur River watershed in Siberia and Manchuria down to Hainan, China. Snakeheads are an important food fish and one of the most cultivated in its native region, with 562,179 tons (510,000 tonnes) annual production worldwide. This has led to the fish being exported throughout the world and has resulted in established non-native populations in Central Asia and North America. The species has a long dorsal fin with 49 to 50 rays, an anal fin with 31 to 32 rays, a small, anteriorly depressed head, eyes above the middle part of the upper jaw, and a large mouth extending well beyond the eye. The small, slender teeth form velvety bands (villiform) with large canines on the lower jaw and upper mouth plate (palatines). It is generally reported to reach up to 3 feet 3 inches (100 cm) in length, but specimens approaching 4 feet 11 inches (150 cm) are known according to Russian ichthyologists (fish scientists). The largest specimen registered by the International Game Fish Association weighs 21 pounds 0 ounces (9.53 kg). In the US, it is found in Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia, Delaware, Maryland, North Carolina, Arkansas, Missouri, and Mississippi.

The northern snakehead first appeared in US news when a fisherman discovered one in a Maryland pond in 2002. In 2008, the fish was found in drainage ditches in Arkansas because of a commercial fish-farming accident, and flooding may have allowed the species to spread into the nearby White River which would allow an eventual population in the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers. Arkansas is the birthplace of warmwater aquaculture in the US and currently ranks as the second-largest aquaculture-producing state. It is also the epicenter for the four species of invasive Asian Carp (Hypophthalmichthys molitrix, Hypophthalmichthys nobilis, Ctenopharyngodon Idella, and Mylopharyngodon piceus). The invasive snakehead can now be added to the list. All five species are said to be quite edible, but getting the American palate to try the fish is a harder sell.

THOUGHTS: AG&F says if you encounter the northern snakehead, silver, bighead, or black carp, kill it (humanely) and report your encounter to the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission Aquatic Nuisance Species coordinator by email (reportans@agfc.ar.gov). It is illegal to transport these fish species alive. While I did not catch the snakehead, I did report it. Invasive species may never be eradicated, but with help they can be managed. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Pyrenees

May 18, 2026

We are planning a cruise to Alaska and the inner passage this summer and I decided to do some clothes shopping before we left. July is the warmest month of the year in Alaska, but temperatures vary drastically by region. The Coastal and Southeast areas (Juneau) where we will travel typically range from 55F to 65F (13C to 18C). That meant I needed to find additional transitional wear that I could layer. I tend to follow my father’s rule-of-thumb when it comes to clothes and closets. I keep three pairs of each type of outer wear, along with 10 shirts and 10 tee shirts. I do have a variety of pants for different occasions (dress, daily, work). This can drive Melissa crazy because every time she buys me a shirt, I donate one of my older shirts to charity. In contrast, the other three closets are dedicated to her clothes, which she alternates between winter and summer outfits. We went to the new big box sports store, and I got and nice short sleeved collared shirt to wear for dinners and a lightweight hoodie I could layer for sight-seeing. I tried the hoodie on today and walked into the living room to show Melissa how it looked. Our Pyrenees (Zena) was asleep on my spot on the couch (her favorite) when I walked in with the hood up. She saw me and went nuts.

When I went online, I found the Pyrenean Mountain Dog or Chien de Montagne des Pyrénées, is a French breed of livestock guardian dog. The Pyrenees breed originates from the eastern or French side of the Pyrenees Mountains that separate France and Spain and is recognized as a separate breed from the Mastín del Pirineo or Pyrenean Mastiff from the Spanish side of the mountains, although they are closely related. It is sometimes claimed that the forebears of both breeds were white livestock guardian dogs brought to the area from Asia in Roman times. The Pyrenean is large and heavily built, with males standing from 28 to 31 inches (70 to 80 cm) and bitches from 26 to 30 inches (65 to 75 cm). Healthy adults typically weigh between 120 and 165 pounds (55 and 75 kg). The neck is short and strong, the chest broad and moderately deep, and the tail long, hanging low when the dog is at rest but curling over the back when the dog is roused. The dogs are widely used throughout France as a livestock guardian, particularly in the French Alps and the Pyrenees, protecting flocks from predation by wolves and bears. It is known as the Great Pyrenees in the US.

Beginning in the late 1970’s, sheep farmers in the US began employing livestock guardian dogs to protect their flocks from predators, particularly coyotes (Canis latrans) and black bears (Ursus americanus), but also cougars (Puma concolor) and grizzly bears (Ursus arctos horribilis). A 1986 survey of over 400 farmers employing 763 livestock guardian dogs in the US found 57% of them used Great Pyrenees. While we do not own sheep, we have toyed with the idea of living off grid. Our black Pyrenees (common but not AKC worthy) was the runt of the litter and now considered small at 90 pounds (41 kg), but she is still a very good protector, always patrolling our fence. She did not recognize me in my hoodie and shot off the couch ready to protect Melissa, sounding her warning bark and her tail was tightly curled over her back. She stopped being aggressive when she realized it was me, but it took a good five minutes of consoling to settle her and down.

THOUGHTS: We did not have a Great Pyrenees when I was growing up, but we did have a large Boxer named Lucky. My sister never cared much for the dog until one day when she was alone at the house. People knew our home as a place to get help with food or even money. One day a man came onto the porch and tried to open the locked front door. Lucky saw the threat and immediately slammed into the door barking, startling the man who quickly ran away. Dogs give protection and keep alert to threats. That is why many people on the streets keep dogs, and why we support a local feeding program by providing dog food. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Velella

May 12, 2026

Monday’s local newspaper carried a USA Today article on hundreds of thousands of small sea creatures were washing up along the Pacific coast in the US. These jelly-like creatures can be found around the globe but are most often in large accumulations off the US Pacific coast and in the Mediterranean. According to Steven Haddock, a senior scientist at the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute, while several miles-long stretches may float in the open ocean, it is when the winds pile them up along the shore that people really notice. Rebecca Helm, Georgetown University Earth Commons Institute has been studying the creatures and says that although velella have been documented for decades, scientists do not yet fully understand them.

When I went online, I found Velella velella is the only known species in the genus of hydrozoa in the family Porpitidae. Other common names are sea raft, by-the-wind sailors, purple sail, little sail, or simply Velella. By-the-wind sailors are a widely distributed free-floating colonial animal that lives on the surface of the open ocean in a specialized ocean surface community collectively called Cnidarians. Specialized predatory mollusks such as sea slugs (nudibranchs) in the genus Glaucus and purple snails (genus Janthina) prey on these cnidarians. Each apparent individual is a hydroid colony, and most are less than about 2.8 inches (7 cm) long. Like other cnidarians, velella are carnivorous and catch their prey (mostly plankton) by tentacles that hang down in the water and bear stinging nematocysts (or cnidocysts). The toxins in their nematocysts are effective against their prey but are relatively benign to humans, although irritation may occur to skin. Some scientists describe velella as floating colonies, but Haddock said it is easier to understand each raft as a single individual with a central mouth that looks like a volcano surrounded by a field of 100’s of squirming noodles, which are also a mouth. Each velella can produce 1000’s of free-swimming, sesame-seed sized offspring that drop off and sink to the seafloor where they produce another single cell that eventually returns to the surface as a new floating colony. They are usually indigo blue in color and have a small stiff sail that catches the wind and propels them over the surface of the sea.

Helm has been looking at how the velella survive in the wind and waves without getting turned around as they pop up right every time as well as their adaptation to use the wind for propulsion. Scientists would also like to be able to predict when the velella armadas are going to appear. One study suggests large concentrations may be found after particularly warm winters, but more research is needed. The winter of 2025-2026 was a record breaker in California with intense marine heat waves observed in the ocean. Scientists are encouraging people to report velella sightings and to take photos with GPS activated readings so they can track their exact locations. Sightings can be reported through the iNaturalist app.

THOUGHTS: Like many unique creatures, the velella are being examined for military reasons. A group of scientists in China have studied mimicking the velella as a prototype for unmanned surface vehicles, while a group at John Hopkins are working with the military on modeling them to create low-cost ocean sensors. Heaven forbid, we take the time to study the uniqueness of nature without trying to adapt it for a military advantage. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Wash

April 15, 2026

I was surprised to see how much dirt and grime accumulated on the RV while we were on the road. The vehicle had sat outside from December to February. While I had winterized and cleaned the interior I did not do much to the exterior. I had purchased a cover designed to go over the unit but had been reluctant to put it on due to the time and thought of trying to accomplish this on my own (yes, I could have asked Melissa). I thought we might go on a short trip at some point, but this did not happen. I had taken the RV to a truck wash prior to leaving and it cost US$56. This did not seem outlandish as it cost around US$20 for my car but it was still a lot of money. Now that we have returned, I knew I needed to get out and clean. I did my research and ordered the necessary tools online (I could not find them locally). Everything arrived Monday and I was ready to wash the RV.

When I went online, I found it best to establish an RV maintenance schedule that includes an exterior wash every 4 to 6 weeks during travel season. Regular washing prevents the buildup of road grime, bugs, and environmental contaminants (bird droppings or tree saps) that can damage paint and seals. Several types of washes should occur along with the standard exterior wash. This includes a post-trip rinse to remove fresh bugs and salt from the surface. A full detail (wash and wax) should occur 2 to 3 times a year to protect the gel coat and finish from UV rays. The roof should be cleaned 2 to 4 times a year to prevent black streaks and allow seal inspection. The chassis and underside should have annual washing, and an immediate wash if the RV is exposed to road salt or beach camping. If stored outdoors and uncovered you may need to wash it more frequently to prevent oxidation, while if in a climate-controlled garage an annual cleaning may be enough. Many owners prefer using a large ladder for safety rather than standing on the roof itself. The RV should be washed in the shade or on a cloudy day to prevent soap leaving water spots, while using a soft-bristled brush or micro-fiber mitt to avoid scratching the delicate exterior, along with an RV-specific soap as household detergents can strip protective wax and damage seals. This seemed like a lot of rules.

Monday turned out to be the perfect day to wash the RV as it was warm yet overcast. I moved the vehicle onto the street to allow the gutter to whisk away the water rather than creating a mud puddle in my yard. I had watched enough YouTube videos to know I needed to start with the roof and then work my way down to avoid streaks (one saying, “Wash your RV in minutes rather than hours”). I have acquired several ladders and thought that might be the best way to clean. Two were too short and the third was so unwieldy it made it hard to maneuver the brushes. I had checked the capacity rating for our fiberglass roof and found it could easily hold me. The problem was climbing the small ladder on the rear to get onto the roof and then figuring out how to wash the front. I finally overcame my vertigo and climbed onto the back of the roof. The brush setup had a 20-foot (6 m) extension and after much trial and error I was finally able to clean the roof. Cleaning the sides and front were simpler as I was firmly on the ground. None of this was hard, merely time-consuming.

THOUGHTS: It took me over four hours (lunch included) to wash the RV. The quick video included a power washer which other postings warned about (strips the decals and paint). I was amazed how much grime came off and Melissa commented on how clean the RV looked. I think my established schedule will include trips to the truck wash along with my hand detailing. While I do not look forward to these washes, it will keep our exterior looking fresh and new for more years. My grandfather used to say you can tell how good a farmer is by how they keep their yard. The same is probably true for an RVer. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Shellear

April 09, 2026

Inside the back section of my local newspaper was a Reuters article about 1000’s of small fish in Africa climbing up a 50-foot (15 m) waterfall. A researcher from the Université de Lubumbashi in the Democratic Republic of Congo first discovered them 17 years ago at Luvilombo Falls, a waterfall in the south. Pacifique Kiwele Mutambala, another researcher from the same institution, made the trek to the falls between 2018 and 2020 determined to document this African fish. Mutambala witnessed the epic climb but lost all his evidence. The fish had not been scientifically documented until a study was just published in Scientific Reports, with Mutambala as one of the lead authors. Locals have known about this fish for at least 50 years. In the local Sanga language, the shellear is called “kalumba,” which derives from a verb meaning “to stick.”

When I went online, I found the Parkouring shellear (Parakneria thysi) will spend hours crawling up a waterfall’s cliffside to reach better habitats. These tiny fish are about 1.4 to 1.9 inches (3.5 cm to 4.8 cm) long. The fish are remarkable for their endurance and adaptability, as they scale the cliff faces against strong water currents. To move upward, the shellear use hook-like growths on the undersides of their pectoral and pelvic fins to grip the rock, then rock their tails side-to-side to generate extra momentum. The climbing mostly happens between April and May (end of rainy season) when they move to better habitats. Scaling the cliff takes about 9 hours 45 minutes on average to climb the 50-foot-high cliffside of Luvilombo Falls. This is further broken down into about 15 minutes of active moment, 30 minutes of brief pauses, and nine one-hour respites. The process is not always successful as a sudden jet of water can knock them off, forcing them to restart the climb.

Biologists have several theories why the Shellear may attempt these excursions after hard rains wash them downstream. This may be a way for the fish to reach locations with less food competition and fewer predators like the silver butter catfish (Schilbe intermedius). Regardless of the reason, the climbing the waterfall makes the shellear susceptible to illegal fishing tactics. The area is at even greater risk of biodiversity loss due to potential plans to divert the river upstream to irrigate crops during the dry season. The shellear population could disappear entirely if conservation efforts in the Upemba National Park lose support. The study’s authors hope a better understanding of the fish will highlight both the region’s incredible ecosystems, as well as the need to protect them.

THOUGHTS: While the Parkouring shellear is the first scientifically documented African species to climb waterfalls, other fish species around the world have evolved similar abilities to scale vertical rock faces. In South America, several species in the order Characiformes (e.g., certain Corydoras catfish) and order Cichliformes (e.g., some cichlids) have been observed climbing waterfalls in the Amazon and Orinoco basins. These fish use similar fin structures and body movements to grip and propel themselves upward. In Southeast Asia, species such as the Asian climbing perch (Anabas testudineus) and certain mudskipper (Family, Oxudercidae) relatives can climb onto mudbanks or rocky substrates, though not always vertical waterfalls. Finally, Australian lungfish (Neoceratodus forsteri), and mudskippers have been documented moving over rocky surfaces, though their climbing is more horizontal or bank based. It seems the more humans research the more diverse our fellow Earth travelers are found to be. Unless we protect and preserve the fragile ecosystems where they reside, knowledge of their diversity will be lost. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Monarch Pass

April 04, 2026

Our return from Utah took Melissa and I along the southern route through Colorado to avoid having to drive the steep passes of the central Rocky Mountains. Melissa drove the 13 miles (21 km) of 6% grade on I-17 that drops into the Verde Valley and neither of us were excited about a repeat. Things began as we took US Highway 50 out of Grand Junction, encountering rolling hills but nothing we could not handle. Then we saw a sign that said Blue Mesa Summit (elevation 8,704 feet or 2,653 m) was just ahead. The pass divides the watersheds of Little Cimarron River to the west and Blue Creek to the east. This stretch is approximately 12 to 15 miles (19 to 24 km) long and has sections with grades of 6 to 10%. Having ridden Verde Valley the previous week I was prepared for Blue Mesa and drove through without much concern. I assumed we had made it through the lower Rockies, and I breathed a sigh of relief. Little did I know looming 50 miles (80 km) ahead was Monarch Pass.

When I went online, I found Monarch Pass (elevation 11,312 feet / 3,448 m) is a high mountain pass in the Rocky Mountains of central Colorado, US. The pass is located on the Continental Divide of the western US at the southern end of the Sawatch Range along the border between Gunnison and Chaffee counties, approximately 25 miles (40 km) west of the town of Salida. The pass carries US Highway 50 over the Sawatch Range providing a route between Tomichi Creek in the upper basin of the Gunnison River on the west and the South Arkansas River on the east. The pass can be traversed by all vehicles under most conditions and is generally open year-round. However, 7% grades exist and the area is prone to heavy winter snowfall which often results in temporary closures during severe winter storms. The highway does have some three-lane sections and runaway truck ramps are located about halfway down both the eastern and western sides of the pass. Ten curves have a 35 mph (56 kph) advisory speed and one 30 mph (48 kph). The West Descent has a 6% grade for 9 miles. The East Descent has a 6% grade for 10 miles.

The climb up Monarch Pass begins at 8,184 feet (2494.5 m) and climbs over 3000 feet (914 m) to the summit with a steady 5-8% grade. We were lucky enough to be traversing the eastern descent, so we got that extra mile (1.6 km) of steep grade. Monarch Pass is rated as the #19 most feared road to drive in the US, especially during the winter due to heavy snowfall, strong winds, and several known avalanche areas. The steep grades and sharp curves combine with a lack of shoulder or guard rails to make this route particularly hazardous. As we neared the summit, we saw signs for “active snow removal” ahead. The summit was covered in snow (thankfully not on the road) and a dense fog set in. I did not know if that might be better as I could not see the drive awaiting us. The fog lifted as we descended and Melissa looked out the side window into the 300 foot (91 m) drop to the trees below. She kept her eyes directly ahead for the rest of the descent. We crept down the mountain, only periodically applying the brakes. A harrowing 25 minutes later we were down.

THOUGHTS: After Monarch Pass Melissa told me we are never going to take US Highway 50 again. The problem is, unless you avoid Colorado entirely you will need to take some risk to cross the Continental Divide. I had taken all these passes without incident when driving a car. It was vastly different in a motor home towing our Jeep. When we tried to find the number of annual fatalities on the road the site said, “it varied”, but they did occur “periodically”. Spending six weeks driving 5000 miles (2495 km) across much of the southern US (Arizona to Florida) gave me a new perspective on the drivers that supply the US with 72% of domestic tonnage (11 to 13 billion tons/10 to 12 m tonnes) annually, valued at more than US$13 trillion. These trucks do not stop on a dime, so give them a break. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Moab

March 25, 2026

I moved to Salt Lake City in 1979 to attend graduate school. I grew up in Kansas (various), and was used to living in towns surrounded by agricultural fields or the remnants of the big bluestem (Andropogon gerardi) that dominated the tall grass prairie. What I found in Salt Lake was the Uinta Mountains on one side and a salt desert on the other. While I quickly adapted to the mountains (skiing) I did not like the desert, finding it hot, salty, and barren. After a few years I was drawn to the archeological sites of the four corners region and southeastern Utah (Anasazi cliff dwellings). I later worked for the Division of State History mapping and encoding sites and participated in several archeological surveys in the area. The more I worked in the area the more I was drawn to it. By the time I left for California I found it was the desert I missed the most. The largest city in the area at that time was the declining town of Moab with 4000 people.

When I went online, I found Moab is the largest city and county seat of Grand County and is known for its dramatic scenery. The population has risen from 4800 in 2010 to 5400 at the 2020 census. Moab attracts lover 3 million tourist annually, mostly visitors to the nearby Arches (4 miles/6.5 km) and Canyonlands (22 miles/35.5 km) National Parks. The town is also a popular base for mountain bikers who ride the extensive network of trails, including the Slickrock Trail. Off roaders also come to for guided Jeep tours and the annual Moab Jeep Safari. Moab has experienced a surge of second-home owners as the mild winters, and enjoyable summers attract people to the area. This mirrors other resort towns in the American West and controversy has risen over the new residents and their houses, many of which are unoccupied most of the year. Moab citizens are concerned the town is changing like the towns of Vail and Aspen in Colorado. This means skyrocketing property values, a rising cost of living, and corresponding effects on local low- and middle-income workers.

I was anxious to revisit the quaint town of Moab and enjoy the solitude of the surrounding desert. Melissa had been talking about visiting the area I loved ever since she heard stories of the many weekend trips taken by me and my son Alex. Often, we would not see another human from the time we left the main road until we returned. The desolation and isolation that had initially turned me off became the basis for my attraction. What we found now was dramatically different. Construction started several miles outside of town, with light industrial sites, gas stores, and fast-food chains. These were interspersed with motels, residences, and RV parks. The street was lined with businesses offering scenic tours by jeep and mountain bike. If you did not want a tour, you could rent either to go on your own. There were offers for ziplines along the canyon rim and plane rides. What struck me most was the change from quiet isolation to the hundreds of people walking or biking along the main throughfare. While the residents may be only 1500 more than I remembered, tourists overwhelmed the city. Moab embraced the niche market of adventure tourism.

THOUGHTS: Melissa and I camped our RV about 15 miles (24 km) north of Moab in the new (2021) Utahraptor (yes, found there) State Park. This was centrally located to spend time at two sites I fondly remember, Dead Horse Overlook and Arches National Park. We found Arches often has long wait lines to enter (exceeding 60 minutes from spring through fall) and the park temporarily restricts access if parking lots fill up. We opted to go straight to Dead Horse. Here again we found 100’s of people. Most were hiking or mountain biking the roads and trails that wind through the park. My recollection was seeing one or two other cars at the overlook. While you can go home again, it may not be recognizable. Still, the trip was worth it and the scenery spectacular! It was worth the crowds. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Burros

March 19, 2026

Several days ago, we camped in the Homolovi State Park in Winslow, Arizona. I was excited to camp in the park as it contains the remains of two pueblos along with a petroglyph panel. Homolovi now serves as a center of research for the late migration period of the Hopi from the 1200’s to the late 1300’s. The park is over 4000 acres (1618.74 ha) and includes a visitor center and museum, various trails and the campground where we spent the night. We arrived early as I wanted to explore the ruins and walk the trails. As we entered the gated park, we saw a sign indicating it was an open range (animals roam free inside the fenced area). We explored the partially excavated Homolovi II site and then took the kids for a walk around the parking lot. The docent at the museum had shown me where the petroglyph (pecked rather than drawn) panel was located and that became our second stop. On the way to the ruin, we noticed several animals grazing off in the brush. On our return the animals had moved closer to the road, and we saw they were wild burros.

When I went online, I found Wild burros (Equus asinus) in Arizona are primarily found in the western desert mountains, most famously in the historic mining town of Oatman, where they roam freely and interact with visitors. The burros are descendants of 19th-century mining pack animals. The protected animals can also be found near Lake Pleasant, near Peoria, Arizona. While the burros are a popular attraction, they are wild. They can bite or kick and feeding them is discouraged to protect their health and safety. The burros are often found in various Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas in western Arizona and are particularly active during early morning and late afternoon. There are over 10,000 estimated wild burros in Arizona, which is far above the sustainable level for the environment (less than 1,500), leading to BLM efforts to manage the population and reduce their impact on the desert. The burros are protected under the federal Wild and Free-Roaming Horses and Burros Act (Public Law 92-195) of 1971, which means it is illegal to harass or harm them. BLM suggests the best way to see the animals is from a distance, without pulling off the road.

While the burros we saw at Homolovi were from a distance, we found them close when we arrived at our Lake Pleasant campground. There was a group of three who were feeding among the campers across from where we were assigned. I had been wary of camping at several of the “Horse Motel” campgrounds set up to accommodate equestrian travelers along our route as I was unsure how the kids would react to the large animals. Now I had no choice as we were invading their protected land. We kept the kids inside while we set up camp and placed the night shade over the front windshield of the RV. I checked outside before taking the kids for a walk to burn off energy before feeding them. We all settled in together inside the RV as it was too hot to be outside. Later that evening I put on their lease to take them out for a final trip. I always go out before them to make sure I have control of the lease. When I opened the door, Zena nearly knocked me down as she tore through the opening with her VERY loud protective bark. One of the burros was standing about 15 feet (3 m) from our front door. I do not know who was more surprised, the burro, the dogs, or me.

THOUGHTS: While wild burros are predated by mountain lions, this is not enough to keep their population in check. The Wild and Free-Roaming Horse and Burro Act charged BLM with managing wild burros in a thriving natural ecological balance with other plants and animals to maintain healthy ecosystems. Wild burros removed from management areas due to overpopulation, emergency situations, or through nuisance are available for adoption through the BLM’s Wild Horse and Burro Adoption Program. Protecting an invasive species is always a fine line. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Verde Valley

March 18, 2026

After battling the winds across the Panhandle region, we were home free as we climbed into the Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) forest that surrounds Flagstaff, Arizona. The Coconino National Forest is located within the world’s largest contiguous Ponderosa pine forest (yes, where the name Ponderosa Ranch comes from on the long-running TV series Bonanza). These dominant, tall trees are famous for their orange-brown, puzzle-like bark that smells like butterscotch or vanilla. We also passed three National Monuments along the route that were extant cliff dwellings of the prehistoric Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi). Like so many other first-time travelers to Arizona, we were surprised to find the dense forest of the Kaibab Plateau rather than the stark desert we associated with the state. As we traveled south out of Flagstaff the forests diminished and the saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) took over as we began to drop in elevation. The saguaro is the largest cactus in the US and acts as a vital, long-lived (up to 200 years) keystone species in the Sonoran Desert. While I had anticipated the saguaro, I was not prepared for the Verde Valley descent.

When I went online, I found the steep grade on Interstate 17 descending from Flagstaff toward Phoenix is often referred to as the Verde Valley grade or simply the I-17 mountain corridor. This stretch includes a sustained 6% grade for roughly 13 miles (21 km) between Flagstaff and Camp Verde, Arizona that requires runaway truck ramps. The stretch also includes another steep section for southbound traffic near Black Canyon City. The route is known for high speeds, steep inclines, and sharp curves and is often cited as one of the most treacherous connections in Arizona. While Flagstaff sits at 7000 feet (2133 m), Phoenix rests in the Verde Valley at an elevation of 1,086 feet (2133,6 m). Although only 145 miles (233 km) apart, the great difference in elevation result in drastic climate changes. Flagstaff is typically 20F to 25F degrees (36 C to 45C) cooler than Phoenix on any given day all year round. This was a descent we were unprepared for.

Our first indication of the Verde Valley downgrade was a sign saying, “6% grade ahead. Trucks and vehicles towing trailers use lower gears.” We were driving the RV and pulling our Jeep behind. We qualified for the warning. My first thought was I was glad I was not driving. Then, I wondered if I should offer to drive. Neither of us had driven anything close to these conditions, so I was not sure I could do anything better than Melissa. Instead of pulling over, Melissa asked for suggestions on how to drive. She slowed down and I clicked on the emergency flashers as we began our descent. The first thing we tried was shifting into 2nd gear. That did not last long as the engine RPM climbed close to the red line. I had just read an article online about the best way to slow your RV when on a steep grade and it suggested to make hard brakes followed by taking your foot off the brake. Melissa shifted into Drive and periodically punched the brake to slow down. There were also reprieves on the descent where it would level off or even ascend for short distances. Melissa did a great job, and we got down without incident.

THOUGHTS: Toward the end of the Verde Valley descent, we passed a truck parked along the side of the road with its brakes smoking. I was glad the driver was able to stop (and that we had avoided a similar situation). I was also proud of the way Melissa had handled driving. It was tense for me, and no doubt more so for Melissa. I knew we had to retrace this route on our way to Utah, but this time we will be going up, a whole new set of problems. This last month has been an amazing immersion into the diversity of the US. We traveled from the Ozarks to the Florida Atlantic coast, then to the high plateau and desert of Arizona. The people have been just as diverse. Rather than a detriment, diversity is what defines our nation. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.