Citrus

November 19, 2025

I have been winterizing my garden for the last several weeks.  That means taking down the trellises for storage and removing what is left of the plants.  I mentioned how I tore out the tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) vines in mid-October, resulting in 14 jars of salsa verde.   I did keep three vines on the off chance the fruit would ripen but gave up on them last week.  While I did have several fruits that had begun to ripen, most were solid green.  I was surprised as several more of the green tomatoes have ripened on the counter.  I harvested one head lettuce (Lactuca sativa) that grew, and we ate it as a salad last night.  The one spinach (Spinacia oleracea) that grew will become a wilted spinach salad for tonight along with fried green tomatoes.  I blanched the ripe/partially ripe tomatoes and froze them to make pasta sauce later.  I still have six cabbage (Brassica oleracea) I am holding out for sauerkraut.  They have yet to form a head so they will probably not make it before the frost.  Only about a third of the second crop peas (Pisum sativum) grew and are now producing pods.  We will finish them this week.  This year I am also trying another tact to preserve my citrus trees.

When I went online, I found Citrus is a genus of flowering trees and shrubs in the family Rutaceae that produce fruits.  Citrus is native to South Asia, East Asia, Southeast Asia, Melanesia, and Australia where indigenous people have used and domesticated various species since ancient times.  Citrus cultivation first spread into Micronesia and Polynesia through the Austronesian expansion (3000 to 1500 BCE), later spread to the Middle East and the Mediterranean (1200 BCE) via the incense trade route, and then from Europe to the Americas.  Citrus fruits are renowned for their fragrant aromas and complex flavor and are among the most popular fruits in cultivation.  The plants tend to hybridize between species making their taxonomy complicated.  The numerous varieties cover a wide range of appearance and fruit flavors.  Many important citrus crops have been developed through extensive hybridization, including oranges (Citrus macroptera), lemons (Citrus limon), grapefruits (Citrus paradisi), and limes (Citrus aurantiifolia) which all have many cultivars.

Two years ago, I purchased two citrus trees (limon and lime) hoping to grow my own fruit.  These were 4 feet (1.3 m) tall, and the seller suggested I might even get a few fruits that first year.  While the lime never fruited, the limon did have one fruit that I used for zest.  I had placed them in pots seated on rolling carriers to move them inside as I did not think they would survive the winter.  It proved impractical to move them indoors, so I bought protective covers to keep out the frost.  Citrus trees are evergreen and keep their foliage year-round, but stress from sudden temperature drops, low light (especially indoors), or lack of humidity can cause them to shed leaves.  When I removed the covers in late winter the leaves and most of the branches were dead.  I thought they had completely died, but they both began to sprout new stems by the spring.  This year I am putting them in the garage to protect them from the bitter cold.  Now to get them some light (grow lamps?).

THOUGHTS: It made more sense why my citrus trees died when I found out they were evergreen.  While some leaves may fall, they still need sunlight, water, and moderate temperatures.  Covering them deprived them of sunlight and never watering them dried them out.  Melissa told me when we return from our trip, she will make room on the sunporch so they can winter with the succulents.  I am hopeful they will continue to thrive under these conditions.  Much like my citrus trees, humans also need the right conditions to survive.  That includes adequate food, safe water, and protection from the elements (clothing and shelter).  A study focusing on low- and middle-income countries suggests 4.4 billion people lack safe drinking water and the WHO found 1 in 4 lack safe access to water.  We need to find another tact.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Freeze

November 08, 2025

The front page of yesterday’s local newspaper ran a USA Today article telling gardeners how to prepare for the impending cold snap.  The first frost in Arkansas’ River Valley usually takes place around November 5.  Scot Covert, chief meteorologist at KFSM-TV, said we will be a little late this year, “we’re looking at Monday the 10th.”  Even before temperatures dip to 32 F (0C), frost can form in low lying areas like gardens (raised beds?) as plants cool faster than the surrounding air.  Randy Forst, extension educator with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, said, “All indoor tropical plants and house plants should be moved into an area that does not go below 35 degrees.”   If you do not take this precaution, it is likely they will freeze.

When I went online, I found that a freeze will damage vegetables by causing ice crystals to form and expand inside the plant which ruptures the cell walls.  A freeze can cause visible damage like wilting, blackening, or water-soaked areas in the leaves.  While most vegetables are negatively affected by freezing (while in the ground), root vegetables and cabbages (brassicas) can become sweeter after a light frost as the cold converts their starches to sugars.  After they thaw, freeze-damaged vegetables are often softer and mushier than their fresh counterparts.  A hard freeze (28F/-2C for several hours) can kill plants outright.  That is particularly true for warm season crops like tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and peppers (Capsicum annuum).  Freezing halts the growth of microorganisms but does not stop all enzymatic activity, which can lead to a loss of quality over time.  That is one reason to blanche your fresh vegetables before placing them in the freezer.

Forst went on the say cool-season vegetables that can tolerate a freeze should be covered to prevent leaf-tip burn.  A bigger concern during this time of year is drought.  Arkansas does not tend to get the moisture needed to keep outdoor plants hydrated.  You need to water outside plants if it does not rain at least once a week.  Outdoor perennials can also use extra care.  Once a frost happens you should clip back the dead foliage and then cover the crown with a biodegradable mulch.  Annuals that bloom during the cool season should continue to receive a water-soluble fertilizer once a month.  Four types of action should be taken to aid your garden and outdoor plants.   Once the temps fall below 40F (4.4C) houseplants should be moved inside.  On clear, calm nights vegetables should be covered if the temps will get into the mid-30’sF (1.6C), then be sure to uncover them when temps rise back into the 40’s+F (4.4+C).  Outdoor plants should be watered weekly if there is low rainfall.  Finally, mulch any perennials after the frost kills the top growth.  These actions will aid your plants’ regrowth the following spring.  I had better cover my plants tomorrow.

THOUGHTS: My vegetables are not the only thing I need to protect against a freeze.  We purchased a used C class RV and it is now approaching our first winter.  Everything I have read extolls the virtue of winterizing the unit if you are going to store it during the cold months.  Part of the process involves draining and pouring food grade antifreeze into the lines and tanks.  Once I do this, I cannot use the RV until I again drain and flush the lines.  While I should just bite the bullet and shut the unit down, I have wavered to the point where it is almost too late.  Our repair person told me the lines are enclosed within the vehicle so I should be fine turning on the water tank heaters and the furnace set low to keep everything warm.  The freeze is set to only last two nights and then it will warm up to the 70’sF again.  I hope I do not regret this decision.  We often delay action until it is too late.  We must address our environmental and communal issues/disagreements now rather than later.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Indeterminant

September 26, 2025

I toyed with the idea of tearing out my tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) plants since the beginning of August.  They quit producing and while I was getting scattered flowers, they did not result in fruit.  The exception was my super sweet 100’s which were doggedly producing, but the size of the cherry tomatoes had dropped from over a nickel (US) to less than a centavo (Mexico).  My gardener friend went on an extended trip during this time and when she returned many of the plants had died and she tore them out.  What stopped me was the weather began to cool, and we had a period of rain, so I did not feel the need to water.  Since all I was doing was monitoring the plants, I decided to leave them.  I still needed another gallon (3.8 liters) of tomatoes to augment the gallon I had frozen in June in hopes of more pasta sauce.  I had only given a quick scan to the plants along the back of the house for several days.  These Arkansas travelers are an indeterminant (keep growing) variety that had spent the summer producing vines without any fruit.  You can imagine my surprise when I gave them a more thorough inspection and found dozens of healthy green tomatoes up to a US half dollar size.

When I went online, I found in biology and botany, indeterminate growth refers to growth that is not limited (terminated) but continues to grow.  In contrast, determinate growth stops once a genetically predetermined structure has completely formed.  That means any plant that grows and produces flowers and fruit until killed by frost or some other external factor is called indeterminate.  Many tomato varieties (especially heirloom) tend to grow in a rangy fashion and produce fruit throughout the growing season.  A determinate tomato plant grows in more of a bushy shape and is most productive for a single, larger harvest.  It then either tapers off with minimal new growth or fruit or dies.  The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968.  The plant is indeterminate and produces round red fruits weighing approximately 6 ounces (170 grams).

When I told Melissa about the green tomatoes flourishing on these indeterminant plants she suggested if they did not ripen (for my pasta sauce or salsa), we could use them for green tomato relish.  Coming from the North I have never eaten this relish, although I have heard of it, but this is a popular and traditional staple in Southern cuisine.  This sweet and tangy relish is often referred to as “chow-chow” and is especially common towards the end of the summer harvest season to use up unripe tomatoes.  Green tomato relish is traditionally made when the season’s last tomatoes fail to ripen on the vine and as a way of preserving the harvest to enjoy throughout the winter.  The unripe tomatoes are mixed with peppers, onions, and pickling spices.  The relish can be preserved through water bath canning for long-term storage.  Another (Southern) use of green tomatoes is to cut them into 1/4-inch (0.6 cm) slices, season with salt and pepper, coated with plain, coarse cornmeal, and shallow-fry slices in bacon fat.  We had tried this (and green tomato pie) earlier in the year.

THOUGHTS: I am interested in trying the unripe fruit of my indeterminant tomatoes as both relish and again fried.  The relish is a traditional topper or side dish that provides a savory accent to meats, fish, or potatoes (Solanum tuberosum).  It is suggested to use bacon fat when frying, which is called “liquid gold” in traditional Southern cooking, as it adds a smokey, salty, and savory depth of flavor that is difficult to replicate with other fats.  While we did not fry tomatoes, my mom always had a can of bacon dripping beside the stove to supplement the can of lard in the cupboard and I still save bacon fat the same way today.  The practice is rooted in the practicality and “no waste” philosophy of southern cuisine as well as my rural Midwestern roots.  “You can take the boy out of . . .” Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

2nd Crop

August 27, 2025

While I considered replanting my raised beds last year, I never got around to doing it.  When I planted my vegetables in April I noted when (and if) I could replant another round of the same vegetables.  After the initial harvest I also considered which vegetables I wanted more of.  I already had way too many pickles (Cucumis sativus) with 12 pints (5.7 liters) than I could use over the next year, and the same was true for the six pints (2.8 liters) of canned carrots (Daucus carota).  I had eaten through the radishes (Raphanus sativus) and only had 2 pints of beets (Beta vulgaris) left, so these were a good choice.  I also decided to replant cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) and cabbage (Brassica oleracea).  We enjoyed the two quarts (1.9 liters) of sauerkraut last year and I had not planted a new crop this year.  I rounded out the raised beds with a few vegetables that had not grown well along the patio; lettuce (Lactuca sativa), spinach (Spinacia oleracea), and peas (Pisum sativum).  Now that my 2nd crop is planted, I just need to wait and see what will produce.

When I went online, I found a second crop is either the second growth of a crop that regrows after an initial harvest, or, more commonly, a different crop planted on the same land within the same year after a previous crop has been harvested.  This is known as double cropping and allows farmers to maximize land use and harvest two yields from the same acreage in a single growing season.  This requires sufficient time for the crop to mature and resources like water to support the second planting.  There are two main types of second crop.  The first is a regrowth after the initial harvest where the stump/roots of a crop resprouts after it has been cut for its first harvest (example, broomcorn).  The second is to plant a follow-on crop of a new and different crop on the same piece of land within the same year after the first has been harvested.  This utilizes land that might otherwise lay idle or unproductive.  Double cropping requires adequate time for the second crop to mature and sufficient moisture from rainfall or irrigation to support both plantings.  This process can boost the overall farm revenue and potentially improve ecological services.

There are several benefits to succession planting or planting a 2nd crop in your vegetable garden.  First is that it allows you to enjoy the vegetables you love for a longer period.  This also allows for more yield in the same amount of space.  This is especially so for smaller gardens with limited space.  If you plant a 2nd crop from a different plant family, it can improve the soil structure and replenish nutrients depleted by the 1st crop.  Finally, rotating different types of plants helps disrupt the life cycles of pests that had fed on the 1st crop and reduce the spread of diseases.  Critical considerations for a 2nd crop are the first frost date in your growing area (mine is 7b).  That means planting fast maturing varieties and vegetables that thrive in cool weather.  You will also need to amend your soil with new compost or fertilizer to ensure a good result.  I did not fertilize when I planted yesterday.  This just gives me something to do today (ha ha).

THOUGHTS: Planting a 2nd crop is the next step toward my goal of sustainability.  Admittedly, I should have allowed several plants to go to seed and then replanted those.  Instead, I used what was left in the heirloom seed packages I had left.  Maybe next year.  As the weather cools, I am looking forward to finally getting some production from the tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and bell (Capsicum annuum) and jalapeno (Capsicum annuum) peppers I planted last April along with the new produce from my 2nd crop.  While the time and expense of growing my garden may not cover the costs, the crispness of the produce makes it worthwhile.  Sustainability is a process that is its own reward.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Cucumber

June 27, 2025

Earlier this month I commented on the pickling I was doing.  That post mentioned the sliced cucumbers I use in a variety of salads.  This year I decided to grow “pickling” cucumbers.  I enjoy dill pickles, so I ended up canning 11 jars of dill pickle spears and three jars of dill pickle slices.  The slices are the result of having to cut more off the ends of the spears to get them into the pint jars I used for canning.  The cucumbers have excellent taste, and I am looking forward to trying my first jar of dill pickles.  While some vegetables produce a single crop at around the same time, cucumbers do not.  I waited for the cucumber to grow and discovered when a pickling cucumber gets large (over about 8 in/20 cm) the seed becomes a prominent feature of the eating experience.  I now harvest daily to ensure the fruits do not grow too large.   I bring in a bag of cucumber every morning. 

When I went online, I found cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is a widely cultivated creeping vine plant in the family Cucurbitaceae that bears cylindrical to spherical fruits elongated with tapered ends.  The fruit may grow as large as 24 inches (62 cm) long and 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter.  Cucumber is considered an annual plant whose fruits consist of 95% water.  There are three main types of cucumber (slicing, pickling, and seedless) within which several cultivars have been created.  The cucumber originates in Asia, extending from India, Nepal, Bangladesh, China (Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi), and Northern Thailand.  The plants are now grown on most continents and many different types of cucumber are grown commercially and traded on the global market.  In botanical terms, the cucumber is classified as a type of botanical berry (pepo) with a hard outer rind and no internal divisions.  Much like tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and squashes (genus Cucurbita), cucumber is often perceived, prepared, and eaten as a vegetable. 

After pickling my two batches of cucumber I decided that was enough.  Even there I gave a jar away to our gardening friend and to my sister-in-law.  They have also been the recipients of cucumber and squash bags, as has my next-door neighbor.  Melissa wants to use some of the fruit to make a sweet refrigerator pickle.  I took 20 pounds (9 kg) of cucumber and 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of squash to the local food bank (and will no doubt take more).  Still, the cucumber keeps coming which has gotten me to be more innovative with the cucumber.  Last night I made a cucumber salad which we enjoyed along with fresh corn (local farmer) and squash I roasted on the grill.  Melissa commented the salad did not look much different than the Greek salad we were served when we were there earlier this year.  I took some of the salad, added tomato, feta cheese, and Kalamata olives and turned it into a passable version of a Greek salad.  Since the larger cucumber gets seedy, I am going to remove the seeds and use the larger fruit to make one of our favorites, Tzatziki Sauce (it goes on everything!).  I am looking forward to a long and fruitful summer.

THOUGHTS: Harvesting and eating fresh vegetables, like cucumber and tomato, is one of the reasons we grow our garden.  I also like to share the harvest with others who do not have access or the ability to grow their own vegetables.  Picking fresh vegetables off the vine or out of the soil to make dinner is its own reward.  The produce is crisper, and you know exactly what went into the soil without the expensive “organic” label.  Growing your own vegetables can be inexpensive, but if you want to grow a larger crop it does take up an investment (annually).  Harvesting, processing, canning, and freezing the produce is another step toward reducing our carbon footprint.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

It’s In

April 14, 2025

It has been an odd planting season (month) this year, to say the least.  It started four weeks ago when I went to the soil and mulch supply I had used for the Hügelkultur raised beds last year.  I had read that the limbs and wood on the bottom layer would decay over several years and as it does, the soil will sink.  At least I did not get the dreaded sink holes that can result when you do not compact the soil into the limbs well enough.  I ordered two skid scoops of topsoil but could only get one in my 8×5 foot (2.4×1.5 m) trailer.  I realized too late I wanted raised bed soil (a topsoil/compost mix) rather than topsoil.  I put the entire scoop into the four raised beds and when I went back for the second load, I changed my order to raised bed soil.  I used this to top off the raised beds and put a layer over two additional beds.  Melissa is going to scatter a wildflower mix in the bed in front of the house and I was going to put squash and lettuce in the back bed I had used for last year’s three sisters (corn, beans, squash).  I misjudged the amount of work this was going to take.  After two long afternoons the soil was finally laid down.  I breathed a sigh of relief and said, “It’s In”.

When I looked online, I found the Old Farmer’s Almanac says the average last frost date for USDA hardiness zone 7a is between March 22 and April 3.  It is Generally safe to plant most garden vegetables after this period, but you need to check local weather forecasts for potential late frosts.  We got excited and went to the plant nursery during the last weekend of March and got some great deals on six packs of peppers (Capsicum annuum), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), and squash (Cucurbita pepo).  I was prepared to put them in the following Monday, but the weather person said there was a “possibility” of one of two frost days (they were right).  We put the plants on the porch with Melissa’s succulents where they could get sun and be out of the cold.  Melissa was countering the humidity for her succulents, so the fan was running 24/7.  The veggies did not like the fan and dried out quickly.  We brought them into the house and Melissa babied them.  Finally last week I was ready to take the risk and put them all in the ground along with the radish (Raphanus sativus), carrot (Daucus carota), beet (Beta vulgaris) seeds, and a hill each of cantaloupe (Cucumis melo) and watermelon (Citrullus lanatus).  I breathed a sigh of relief and said, “It’s In”.

I had worried as I planted the veggies last Monday as several were looking poorly.  I mulched and watered them for several days before I bought replacements and replanted five.  As the week went on several more withered and died.  I removed the store plants and planted seed for several straight necked squash and cucumbers (Cucumis sativus).  As I watered this morning, I faced the dilemma of what to do with three tomatoes and two bell peppers that were struggling.  It was iffy whether they would survive and if I waited to act it would probably be too late for seed before the summer heat.  I went back to the co-op and found a six pack of Cherokee purple tomatoes and two single peppers.  That meant I had more plants than planters, but the six pack was the same price as one single (I needed two).  I ended up placing two of the tomatoes in the back bed with the squash and found another container for the third.  I breathed a sigh of relief and said, “It’s In”.        

THOUGHTS: Each time I said, “It’s In, I thought the job was over.  While I could have left the empty containers and garden spaces I was unwilling to do so.  I had already invested too much time and energy to quit when I was so close to completing my planting.   I did tell Melissa after finishing today that I was not going to buy any more plants.  If any fail now their spaces will be reserved for my summer/fall planting.  In gardening and life, you need to be willing to overcome initial setbacks.  You also need to know when it is time to change strategies and tactics.  Doing the same thing and expecting different results rarely works.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Planning

February 28, 2025

It was near or above 70’sF (21C) most of this week, and that after dropping to single digits a week ago.  Warmer temperatures have got me thinking about my garden.  This time last year, I was planning the garden layout and had seedlings under the grow lights.  My main push was trying to collect enough wood, fill, and dirt to create the four Hügelkultur raised beds.  Every step of the process turned out to be more work than I had imagined (and I imagined a lot of work).  This year will be more tweaking the beds and growing methods I already own.  When I started four years ago, I grew everything in container pots.  These were mostly 5-gallon (19-L) buckets, along with several wooden planters left from my mother-in-law and a few large flowerpots.  Now I have moved almost entirely away from my old containers.  This year’s plantings will go into a mix of raised beds and grow bags, along with the three in-ground beds.  I cleaned out the different planting medium when I shut down last fall.  I had also purchased three additional (5 total) rolling, self-watering tomato planters that I put together.   Then it was a matter of planning how to proceed, then cleaning up and placing the different containers along the back fence of my patio.

When I looked online, I found different sites that assured me they could help me with planning the perfect garden.  These ranged from pre-planned gardens (for beginners), to garden guides and layouts, and even complete kits selling seeds and directions for how to plant.  Several of the self-help guides were “old school” and allowed you to draw your plots on lined paper and then add cut-outs of the various plants so you could move them around to ensure the best placement.  Others were high tech with software to walk me electronically through the (same) planning process.  Being trained as an historian I am partial to paper that I could put my hands on, but I was not ready to revert to my elementary school days of cut and paste.  I decided what I needed to start my journey was a planning checklist to walk me through the stages in the proper order.  What I found was literally called, The Ultimate Garden Planning Checklist.  I printed a copy so I could hold it.

The checklist began telling me what to do 3 to 4 months prior to planting.  We are now 6 weeks from the last frost in zone 7, so I missed that part of planning.  I have an excuse as we were in Greece the first three weeks of February, and everything would have died had I started seedlings in January.  There were still some of the later seeds that could be started (6-8 and 2-4 weeks out) but I will have to push to get them going in time for the April 15 target date.  Last year I did not adequately harden off the seedlings and most of them died either on the screened porch or after planting.  I am going to try and do better this year.  It is not subsistence farming if you buy your plants from the greenhouse.  I need to refill parts of the raised beds, put compost and soil in the containers, and decide what I am going to do with the front beds.  I still have lots of planning left to go.

THOUGHTS: Taking time for planning is necessary if I want my garden to produce.  Each year I get a little better at both planning and deciding what and how to plant.  I am challenged as I see the hours spent by Melissa with her succulents.  I have mentioned how Melissa’s mom would spend hours a day working on the flower beds.  I know both are a labor of love.  I am at the stage where my garden is still a labor of like.  Being skilled at anything is a combination of talent and a lot of time spent doing it.  This is true in business, in sports, and especially in interaction with people.  You may get by on a labor of like in dealing with others, but real communication requires you practice until it becomes a labor of love.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Long-term

October 23, 2024

I have mentioned how most of my vegetables have matured and stopped producing.  The exceptions are the pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) representing the last of my three sisters’ harvest.  They started late but now still provide several cups of beans every few days.  The raised beds are empty except for the 5 rattlesnake watermelons (Citrullus lanatus) struggling to mature, the 2 late starting green bell peppers (Capsicum annuum), and the 2 red okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) that produce beyond their limit.  There are also 8 cabbages that are finally picking up as the temperatures cool.  I really did not expect much from my tomatoes as the heat kept them from much production during the summer (I did get 3 jars of pasta sauce).  The friend I swap gardening stories with said she tore her tomatoes and peppers out several months ago to avoid having to water them.  We are having temperature shifts as the nights get into the 40’s (4.5+C) and the days get to the high 80’s (27+C), causing a resurgence of my San Marzano and plum tomatoes, making me wonder what to expect in long-term production.

When I looked online, I found that depending on their maturation date, “indeterminate” tomato (Lycopersicon lycopersicum) cultivars are the best long-term producers and will yield tomatoes for two to three months.  “Determinate” tomatoes, including dwarf and bush cultivars, typically only yield tomatoes for around two weeks after they blossom.  Tomatoes are grown as perennials in tropical climates and as annuals in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 through 10.  Traditional and heirloom indeterminate tomato cultivars continue to grow taller throughout the growing season and will reach heights of 5 to 8 feet (1.5 to 2.5 m) and typically require support with a wire tomato cage or stakes.  They grow flowers and yield tomatoes from shoots or “suckers” that grow on the sides of their main stem from the time they mature and flower until the first autumn frost.  The best long-term producing cultivars are those that mature early and grow in an area with a long growing season.

Most cultivated tomatoes in my area (zone 7) are planted soon after the last spring frost (c. April 15) and the fruit is expected sometime between 57 to 100 days after the seedling is planted.  If you plant an indeterminate tomato cultivar, you are encouraged to prune the vines regularly to maintain a long harvest of large, quality tomatoes.  I have done this in the past, but I have only done this sporadically this year.  The University of Arizona horticulturalists recommend pruning all but three or four of the shoots that grow in a tangle inside the cage and allow the foliage to protect the fruit from the sun.  If you don’t prune the suckers, these stems consume a lot of a plant’s energy and may result in smaller yields and fewer tomatoes (like I saw).  I did use 4 foot (1.2 m) cages but as the season went on the plants far exceeded that height.  I found out the San Marzano I planted for pasta sauce are a larger variety of plum tomatoes (I planted both) and are some of the better plants in long-term production.

THOUGHTS: As the temperatures dropped, I quit the daily watering I maintained throughout the summer and removed the dying vegetable plants one by one as they ceased production.  A month ago, I was tempted to tear out all of my tomatoes as they had essentially stopped producing fruit but kept them to see what the long-term might bring.  Now they are again producing blossoms and fruit.  I had little to lose when I took a long-term approach in my vegetable garden.  If the plants failed to produce, I would not have been out much in terms of time and water.  Since they did produce, I will reap the benefit of fresh tomatoes into the fall.  Corporations seem less willing to take a long-term approach toward products or employees.  If the product does not make a quick profit, it is dropped.  If the employee does not prove productive, they are let go.  While moving from one product to the next might make economic sense, employees should not be used as expendable.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Carrots

October 10, 2024

Only a few plants remain in my raised beds as we approach the end of the growing season.  I have two bell peppers (Capsicum annuum) that had been overshadowed by the cutleaf ground cherry (Physalis angulata) that had self-propagate and taken over three of my raised beds.  After I ripped the plants out of the bed these two scrawny plants were hidden underneath.  I had no idea what they were but decided to let them grow.  They are now producing fruit, while the peppers in my containers have stopped producing and the wilted stems have been removed.  The 2 red burgundy okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) are still going strong at over six feet (2 m) with new blossoms daily.  If only I liked okra.  I am thinking I might try and pickle some smaller fruits as it is the only way I can eat them.  The watermelons are still trying to produce, with five new melons on the vine.  Then there are the five cabbage plants (Brassica oleracea) struggling to survive.  I did not pay close enough attention and most of my leafy vegetables were eaten by insects.  I never saw them, but the holes in the leaves gave away their presence.  The only other crop is the carrots I had planted at the end of April.

When I looked online, I found the carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a root vegetable, typically orange in color and is a biennial plant in the umbellifer family (Apiaceae).  Heirloom variations can be purple, black, red, white, and yellow.  All of the subspecies are domesticated forms of the wild carrot which is native to Europe and Southwestern Asia.  The plant probably originated in Iran and was originally cultivated for its leaves and seeds, but the most common part of the plant now eaten is the taproot.  The domestic carrot has been selectively bred to have a larger, more palatable, and less woody-textured taproot.  Carrots are commonly consumed raw or cooked in various dishes and are a rich source of the provitamin A compound (beta-carotene), which converts to vitamin A as it is digested.  Fast-growing cultivars mature within about 90 days of sowing the seed, while slower-maturing cultivars need 120 days.  World production of carrots (combined with turnips) for 2022 was 42 million tons, with China producing 44% of the total.

I do not know if I planted a fast growing or slow growing variety of carrots, but my carrots have been in the ground for over 160 days.  When I planted them, I made a single slit in the ground and shook the tiny seeds into the ground.  I had planted them too close together and when they sprouted none of the seedlings had enough room to flourish.  I tried thinning them several times but never seemed to get them far enough away from each other to give them room to grow.  Every time I checked or thinned them, they were still needle thin.  Several of the tops had become larger recently and today I decided it was time to quit messing with them and harvested the batch.  I did have one descent sized carrot, and a lot of smaller (but passable) ones.  I tried one and gave another small one to Melissa.  While they may not have grown large, they did taste good.           

THOUGHTS: The carrots suffered the same fate as all my root vegetables.  I did not space them enough and even thinning them did not give them enough room to grow.  I watched a YouTube video suggesting I plant them in squares to make sure there was proper spacing to grow.  More knowledge to save for the future.  I did not do a second planting of any of my vegetables (in August).  I had grown weary and was not paying enough attention to the plants I already had in the ground.  I guess sustainability is still a long way off.  Overcrowding has the same effect on humans as it does carrots.  Human overpopulation suggests we may become too large to be sustained by the environment or the Earth’s resources.  Estimates of the world’s carrying capacity predict a maximum of 7.7 billion.  We now stand at over 8 billion and rising.  Unless this is addressed, like my carrots the world will self-correct itself.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

2nd Sister

September 24, 2024

I was excited over the weekend when I went out to check the remnants of the three sisters planting to find the pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) had finally begun to produce.  I have mentioned the poor production for the 1st sister, corn (Zea mays var. rugosa), with only dried kernels suitable for grinding or bird food.  That was followed by an ok harvest of the 3rd sister, Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata), which produced 7 gourds.  It has now been nearly a month and while there were lots of flowers and buds, I had not seen any beans hanging from the vines until last weekend.  The vines had been growing well, even causing some of the drying corn stalks to collapse and again lay on the ground.  I felt lucky for having staked the stalks after their infamous “leaning” event in July.  I knew at least some of the stalks would be able to stand despite the weight of the bean vines.  Yesterday I decided to see if I could find anything worth harvesting among the twisted vines.  I was anxious to see the result from the 2nd sister.

When I looked online, I found the common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) is an herbaceous annual plant grown worldwide for its edible dry seeds or green, unripe pods.  The bean’s botanical classification (as all Phaseolus species) is a member of the legume family Fabaceae.  Common beans acquire the nitrogen they require through an association with rhizobia (like most Fabaceae), or nitrogen-fixing bacteria.  The bean has a long history of cultivation with the wild Phaseolus vulgaris native to the Americas.  It was originally believed that it had been domesticated separately in Mesoamerica and in the southern Andes region 8000 years ago, giving the domesticated bean two gene pools.  Recent genetic analyses show that it was first domesticated in Mexico, and then split into the Mesoamerican and Andean gene pools.  As the 2nd sister (by planting order), maize (corn), beans, and squash are the three Mesoamerican crops that constitute the “Three Sisters” that were central to the indigenous agriculture.  All wild members of the species are climbing, but many cultivars are now classified as bush beans or climbing beans, depending on their style of growth.  Beans are grown on every continent except Antarctica, and during 2022, there were 28 million tons (28000 kt) of dry beans produced worldwide, led by India with 23% of the total.  The common bean arrived in Europe as part of the Columbian exchange, the widespread transfer of plants, animals, commodities, precious metal, culture, human populations, technology, diseases, and ideas between the New World (the Americas) and the Old World (Afro-Eurasia) in the late 15th and following centuries.

While I had (inadvertently) planted bush beans in my raised beds, I planted pole beans as my 2nd sister.  I have mentioned how bush beans are preferable for commercial cultivars as the fruit tends to ripen at the same time (yes, beans are another fruit that is eaten as a vegetable).  I harvested the bush beans last week and got a small return (the bowl in picture).  Unlike the bush beans I planted in the raised bed, the pole beans are expected to provide a continuous harvest throughout the growing cycle.  I look forward to several more weeks of harvest from my 2nd sister.    

THOUGHTS:  I was pleased with the harvest from the 2nd sister.  The first pick of pole beans yielded over 6 quarts of processed green beans.  I flash froze 4 quarts and plan for the other 2 quarts to be mixed with onions, bacon, and the Yukon Gold potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) I harvested earlier this month, for a meal later this week.  This Thanksgiving, I plan on providing a green bean casserole for the family using my home grown beans.  This is one of the joys I find in (trying) to provide subsistence agriculture.  While there are trials (i.e., the other sisters) in growing your own food, they make the successes sweeter.  This also forces me to explore a variety of preservation techniques.  Life-long learning is a good thing.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.