Planting

August 10, 2026

I blogged several weeks ago about tearing the last of the plants out of my raised beds to prepare them for fall planting. I purchased the seeds after cleaning the beds but was hesitant to plant them in the ground with the searing 100’s+F (37.8+C) heat. Yesterday I decided to move ahead. Like most things I do, the beginning of one project cannot happen until others get done. The raised beds use the hügelkultur (logs and brush) and while I do not have any collapsed holes, the beds all sank since I refilled them in April. That meant I needed to get a load of potting mix from the mulch yard. By the time I got ready it was too hot to work on Saturday, and the yard is closed on Sunday. The onion sets (Allium cepa) were starting to go bad, and I did not want to wait another week. I calculated what it would cost for a half cubic yard (third cubic m) and found it would not be much more to purchase 40-pound (18 kg) bags of mix. I knuckled down and bought 15 bags to refill the beds, and the six new potato grow bags. I needed to know when I should be planting the various seeds.

When I went online, I found The Farmer’s Almanac provides a Fall planting calendar for my zone (7b). The 9th and 10th were the most favorable days for planting beets (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris), onions, turnips (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa), and other root crops so I was good there. I am also planting radishes but with their short growing period (30 days) I decided to wait and try to harvest everything together. The 18th and 19th were recommended for my peas (Pisum sativum), so I guess I jumped the gun on those. The broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) recommended I plant seed starters and replant them in 2 weeks. I instead planted them directly in the ground now (we will see how that goes). The 25th to 27th are barren days, and a good time for killing plant pests. If the squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae) comes back, I will be ready. The 28th and 29th are excellent for any vine crops like my squash. Again, I already planted zucchini and straightneck squash (both Cucurbita pepo). Hopefully, this will work intuitively rather than by the Almanac (it could happen).

When I was clearing my beds for planting, I mentioned I had five (really) small heads of cabbage (Brassica oleracea) that I cleaned and put in the vegetable bin. All I needed was inspiration for what to do with them. With my other crops in the ground, I decided to try another batch of sauerkraut. I made one quart (0.9 l) a month ago and it is fermenting well on the pantry shelf. I sliced the cabbage last night, then got distracted. I had put salt on the sliced cabbage, and it sat on the cabinet all day yesterday. I was too tired to deal with it last night, so I placed it in the refrigerator. That proved to be a mistake. When I took it out this morning the cut leaves needed to be kneaded for 5 or 6 minutes to break them down and bring the water out. While I could have let it raise to room temperature, I had already procrastinated enough, and I moved ahead. The cold nearly froze my fingers.

THOUGHTS: I seem to treat planting the same way I do cooking. There are recipes out there, but what is the fun of that? There are planting guides out there, but what could it hurt? Both the recipes and planting guides follow proven methods. While chefs often improvise for new tastes and cuisines, unless you are trying for a new cultivar, gardeners rarely do. There is also wiggle room built into the planting suggestions. If my unorthodox schedule works, there will be plenty of vegetables for the food bank. If it does not, we already support them monetarily. You always need a backup plan. In graduate school I was frowned upon because I did not support a specific theory, instead preferring to be eclectic. Eclectic is harder because you need to understand multiple theories and be willing to see what works in each situation. While this may not be the safest approach, it can produce a better result. Being open can also be valuable in life. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Electroculture

July 31, 2026

This week I tore out the last of the plants in my raised beds. The first to go were the remaining onions (Allium cepa) I had left in the ground. I found it was a mistake to leave the mature bulbs in the ground as the sun and high temperatures (95F+/35C+) burned the tops of the bulbs that stuck out of the soil (another learning experience). It became clear the cabbages (Brassica oleracea) were done forming into heads and were just soaking up water. I joked with Melissa that I had raised “tiny cabbages”, my cutesy name for brussels sprouts (also Brassica oleracea). They came out, and the small heads are waiting in the vegetable bin for me to do something with. The volunteer cantaloupe (Cucumis melo) only produced two viable fruits and there were no new flowers, so out it came. The last to go were the two cucumber plants. They had produced well, including 14 pints of canned dill pickles and numerous pounds to donation. Now I need to prepare the beds and get ready for my fall planting. Thinking about what goes where always puts me on alert, so my interest was perked when I came across a Facebook reel touting the virtues of Electroculture Gardening.

When I went online, I found electroculture gardening is an alternative practice involving placing copper wires, antennae, or magnetic coils into the soil to capture atmospheric and geomagnetic energy. Proponents of the technique claim it accelerates growth, increases crop yields, and repels pests. Mainstream science views these claims as lacking “robust” empirical proof. The copper antennas are simple enough to make and are readily available for purchase. They consist of copper wire wrapped tightly around an 11 inch (37.5cm) wooden or bamboo stake that is then pushed about 3 inches (7.5 cm) into the soil. In the Northern Hemisphere you twist the wire in a clockwise spiral to supposedly match local magnetic forces. You can also place open loops of copper wire (Lakhovsky-style coils) around the bases of individual plants. This coil is a simple open-ended loop of wire with overlapping ends that do not touch, invented by Georges Lakhovsky, to act as a passive resonant circuit. Controlled tests and academic agricultural reviews find no verified mechanisms or consistent data showing that passive copper wire acts as an effective power antenna or nutrient booster for soil, and suggest standard alternatives (organic compost, maintaining proper hydration, and rotating crops) work as well or better to improve harvest.

I have tried several trendy methods to grow or increase the produce in my yard. This includes raised beds using hügelkultur (built over logs), cloth grow bags, the three sisters (corn/ Zea mays, beans/ Phaseolus vulgaris, and squash/ genus Cucurbita) grown in mounds, 5-gallon (19 L) buckets, and containers. I even have gone so far as to plant directly in the ground (ha ha). All these methods have been successful at times, and at other times not. I am constantly trying to increase yields to make our household more sustainable and less dependent on outside resources. I have yet to be consistent.

THOUGHTS: Electroculture gardening seems to be another attempt to improve crop yield. Some have made a stark claim that the world only has a limited number of harvests left (100, 60, or even 30). While the claims are overblown, soil erosion rates from across the world span five orders of magnitude. Around 16% of the world’s soils are eroding quickly and have an estimated lifespan of less than 100 years. Half of the soils are eroding slower with a lifespan greater than 1000 years while one-third have over 5000 years. As with my garden, we need to protect our soils with agricultural practices like cover cropping, minimal to no tillage, and contour cultivation. While it is feasible for me to test electroculture, extending the world’s soil will require a proven and cooperated effort across every country. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Flea Beetle

July 17, 2026

Several days ago, I mentioned my battle with insects in our garden and flower beds. I have overcome the squash bugs (Anasa tristis) this year, but the vines rotted before I got much fruit. I only found a few bugs on my squash, but I finally located squash vine borer moths (Melittia cucurbitae) on my sunflowers. The vine borers lay their eggs on the underside of leaves and when the larva hatches, they bore into the vines and can cause them to rot. That seems to be the clear case for my squash (genus, Cucurbita), but it did not account for the pitting I saw on the red amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) leaves in the bed. I have been checking the plants daily for any moths and the underside of the leaves for eggs, capturing the moths (if possible) and scrapping the eggs off the leaves. If the leaves have already been discolored, I am cutting them from the plant. My close early morning inspections proved fruitful today as I spied another beetle on one of my sunflower leaves. When I checked it was identified as a pigweed flea beetle.

When I went online, I found the pigweed flea beetle (Disonycha glabrata) is a species of striped flea beetle in the family Chrysomelidae. This small, striped leaf beetle is known for skeletonizing plants in the Amaranth family (like it did mine). Plants in the amaranth family may be called pigweeds because they were/are used to feed pigs. The flea beetle is active in gardens and fields during the summer, chewing tiny round holes and laying eggs on the leaves. The larvae spend their first 13.5 days in the soil before crawling out as adults. The Pigweed Flea Beetle has a red and black head. The red, shield-like part on an insect’s body (pronotum) has a black dot in the center, or may have three black dots, depending on the individual. The black wing coverings (elytra) have four yellow lines on them, with the two on the left connecting at the bottom as do the two on the right. Antennae are black, and legs are red and black. Other members of the same genus have a similar appearance, but the width, color, and number of the lines on the elytra differ between them.

The pigweed flea beetle is active from late spring through autumn and is not considered a significant pest in a backyard garden. That is unless you are trying to grow red amaranths. It is best to use a multi-step approach to control and manage infestation. Start by placing fine Floating Row Covers over young plants immediately after planting to block access. Once plants are established, spray them with organic Spinosad or Neem Oil. These sprays must be applied in the early morning or evening and directly contact the beetles to be effective. While Neem Oil is considered organic, spraying in the evening eliminates possible contact with the pollinators who would also be harmed by the oils. Flea beetles are highly attracted to plants like radishes or hemp and planting these near your valuable crops creates sacrificial targets that can be easily treated or vacuumed. Flea beetles locate food by smell and interplanting strongly scented herbs like mint (Family, Lamiaceae), basil (Ocimum basilicum), or catnip (Nepeta cataria) can confuse the pests. This would also make our neighborhood cats happy. Tilling the soil in the fall and removing garden debris helps destroy overwintering adults and larvae hidden in the topsoil.

THOUGHTS: Finding the pigweed flea beetle solved another riddle from my garden. Last year it was the pock marked squash leaves (squash beetle), and this year it was the rotted vines (squash vine borer) and skeletonized amaranth (flea beetle). I have found knowing the cause does not resolve the problem. You also need to take appropriate (and specific) action. This is where listening to science and experts can be invaluable. Otherwise, you risk wasting time and money, and sometimes your integrity. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Squash Vine Borer

July 14, 2026

For the last three years I have waged a battle with squash bugs (Anasa tristis). While I found a few individuals on my squash (genus, Cucurbita) this year, they have not been abundant and when I do see one I remove and dispatch it. Even so, every one of my squash plants died early. The cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are thriving, but they were planted late and after the squash were gone. Squash bugs feed by piercing the leaves and stems to suck out plant sap, causing foliage to develop speckled yellow spots before turning brown and dying. I was still finding my leaves riddled with holes, but what led to the squash demise was the vine above the roots disintegrated. This seemed a different culprit than what I faced in the past. I attributed this to the cool and wet weather we had this spring leading to vine rot. I have similar leaf problems in the sunflower bed to the north and every one of the red amaranths (Amaranthus cruentus) are riddled with bite holes. While watering yesterday I noticed what looked like small beetles on the leaves of several of the sunflowers (Helianthus annuus). When I tried to remove them, they “jumped” to the other side of the leaf. Then one of them flew off. I was looking at a squash vine borer infestation.

When I went online, I found squash bugs and squash vine borers (the “moth” pest) are two distinct cucurbit (cucumbers, squash, melons, and pumpkins) pests. Squash bugs are “true bugs” (flat, dark gray/brown, resembling stink bugs) that suck plant sap while squash vine borers are daytime-flying moths whose caterpillars burrow into stems and kill vines from the inside. The squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae) is a daytime (diurnal) species of clear wing (sesiid) moth often mistaken for a bee or wasp because of its movements and the bright orange hind leg scales. Females typically lay their eggs at the base of leaf stalks, and the caterpillars develop and feed inside the stalk, eventually killing the leaf. They soon migrate to the main stem, and with enough feeding damage to the stem, the entire plant may die. The moth is considered a pest as it attacks cultivated varieties of genus Cucurbita (squash, zucchini, pumpkin, and acorn squash). The squash vine borer is native to North America, with some reports as far south as Brazil and Argentina. It lives in most temperate North American states, except the Pacific coast. Southern states have two broods a year (lucky for us).

Pesticides are ineffective to control squash vine borers once the larva gets inside the plant, and since the north bed is meant for pollinators, cannot be used as they would kill what I am trying to feed. I have been trying to catch and dispatch anything I see, but they are fast. An organic control is to inject BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) bacteria into the base of the stem using a syringe to kill the larvae. The injection should be done after the first flowers start to show and again after a few weeks. This method is quite manual and is only useful to small-scale or home gardeners (and too much work for me). You can wrap the lower stem with nylon stockings or aluminum foil to prevent egg laying, which generally occurs within a couple of inches from the point where the stem emerges from the soil. Some gardeners place a yellow bowl filled with water and a drop of liquid dish soap to attract and drown the adult pest. This method provides feedback on the level of infestation and along with daily checking the plants for eggs is popular with organic gardeners. Now I need a yellow bowl.

THOUGHTS: I try and be conscientious about organic farming on my vegetables, but the squash vine borer is testing my limits. Perhaps it is a good thing that most pesticides are ineffective on the insects. I realize I am feeding some insects even as I try to eliminate others. The same is true as I grow weeds (wildflowers) even as I pull others from my beds. Humans tend to make similar decisions with the people they cooperate with. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Volunteer

June 03, 2026

I went to the eye doctor for my annual checkup today and when I returned Melissa wanted to show me something that had sprouted in the mailbox planter. Melissa has tried to grow several different flowers in this brick planter. The grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) has done well and explode in early spring, but they dwindle and die leaving the box empty during the summer and fall. We have tried a variety of different perennials, but none have lasted through the season, yet alone come back the following year. This year Melissa tried something different by planting a central coneflower (Echinacea) hybrid (sombrero lemon yellow) surrounded by rose moss (Portulaca grandiflora) starts to act as an annual bedding and keep down the weeds. While the rose moss plants are doing well, the coneflower is again struggling. What Melissa wanted to show me, however, was an intrusive weed that was beginning to take over the lower left side of the planter. It was obvious this volunteer was a tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) plant.

When I went online, I found “volunteer” plants in gardening are those that sprout and grow on their own without being intentionally planted. They emerge from seeds dropped in the previous season, spread by wildlife, or distributed through homemade compost. While some volunteers are thought of as nuisances, they can be surprisingly vigorous, cost-free additions to your garden. On the plus side, a volunteer is free and takes no effort from you. They can be exciting to find and can add fun and unpredictability to a well-planned garden. On the minus side, the volunteer can grow in unwanted places, and you can never be sure what you are getting. Seeds from open pollinated plants always produce a vegetable identical to its parent. Seeds from hybrid plants are not true to form and it is more likely the volunteer will resemble one of the plants that produced the hybrid seed, and some hybrid plants will not produce any fruit. The intruder can mess with the crop rotation you planned for your garden and can also carry soil borne disease.

When I saw the volunteer plant I wanted to dig it up and transplant it in the container where some animal had sat on one of my Roma tomatoes. Melissa wanted to let it grow in place and see what it will produce. All the seeds grown in my garden are from older cultivars (heirlooms) but most of the tomatoes are nursery purchases (heirloom and/or hybrid). Since we have never planted tomatoes in the mailbox bed it must have gotten there from an animal or in the compost I used to enhance the soil. This year I also noticed several volunteer plants in my raised beds. These are some sort of unknown squash (genus, Cucurbita) that have sprouted in the rows of beets (Beta vulgaris) and a leafy lettuce (Lactuca sativa) that sprouted after I replanted the spinach with a cucumber (Cucumis sativus). Here again, we must wait and see what is produced.

THOUGHTS: While this is the first time to have a volunteer tomato in the flower bed, I have had a volunteer in my raised beds both years. Last year my sown seed in one of the beds was overcome by large ground cherry (Physalis angulata) plants. These grow wild in Arkansas and some harvest them from the open woods where they thrive. I let them grow after finding out what they were and even tried harvesting them. I did not like the taste and since they were blocking light to what I had planted I tore them out (again, one person’s weed is another’s harvest). When you get a volunteer, you can leave them, relocate them, or remove them. Humans seem to take a similar approach when other people move into their neighborhood. Some are welcomed, some are asked to move to another area, and some are physically removed. Currently in the US, the difference seems linked with ethnicity and culture. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Distribute

May 16, 2026

After filling my bird feeders, I was sitting on the patio waiting to see what species would arrive. What I noticed instead was how my tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) plants had begun to grow this last week. I mentioned I planted fourteen tomato plants this year, using four different types of containers. My two sweet 100s (cherry) are in 5-gallon (19-l) buckets. Three of the Arkansas Travelers (slicing) are in 5-gallon grow bags and the other three are in 10-gallon (38-l) terra cotta pots. The six Romas (sauce) are in the plastic self-watering containers I purchased last year. All 14 plants were over 2-1/2 feet (0.76m) and are starting to produce (green) fruit. While I have known since our family garden as a child that tomatoes need trellises or cages for support, it was not until three years ago that I learned you should also prune your plants. The small, secondary shoots that grow in the “V” joint where a leaf branch meets the main stem (suckers) should be removed as these produce less desirable fruit. The bottom branches should also be removed to guard against pests and disease. Pruning encourages the plant to focus on growing fruit rather than tall, bushy vines. With the number of plants in the ground, it got me thinking of how to distribute the expected tomatoes.

When I went online, I found one way to distribute excess produce was called Fresh Food Connect. This group was formed in 2016 with the goal of connecting local gardeners with the hunger relief efforts in their community to grow a more local and resilient food system. Fresh Food Connect has a free mobile app that connects gardeners with their communities. By 2024, Fresh Food Connect had grown to over 4,300 gardeners with over 65 hunger relief nonprofits in 28 states and has shared over 300,000 pounds (136077.7 kg) of homegrown produce with 166,000 community people experiencing food insecurity. During 2025, 5,210 registered gardeners in 18 states connected with 54 local community partners to provide over 91,490 pounds (41,499 kg) of homegrown produce to over 51,870 individuals facing food insecurity. This distribution amounted to grocery savings of US$457,460, or over 76,240 meals and over 91 tons (82.5 mt) of CO2EQ saved.

I got excited when I learned of this effort to efficiently distribute home grown food to those with food insecurity. I immediately downloaded the app and typed in my zip code to find a distribution center near me. While there was (currently) no distribution near me, the Ozark Church Food Pantry was listed as only 52 miles (83.5 km) away. I used the app to suggest they partner with the Crawford Sebastian Community Development Council in Fort Smith (15 miles/24 km away). The app does allow me to register my donations outside of their network so I will probably continue to give locally and register my donation with Fresh Food. Last year I also shared with my neighbors and several friends, and I will probably do that again this year. Today I used my last jar of dill pickles making pickle de Gallo, so I am also looking forward to restocking my garden favorites.

THOUGHTS: Cassey Anderson, Colorado State University Horticulture Agent, provided the three Golden Rules when planning to distribute your harvest to a local food bank. These are: Keep it cool, Keep it wet (when appropriate), Handle with care. Harvesting is best done in the cooler parts of the day (morning/evening) and many crops can be harvested and placed directly into a container of cool water. If you continue to harvest, make sure they are placed out of the sun. Using a sharp knife or scissors is a better choice for harvesting rather than tearing the crop off the main plant. This reduces stress on the plant, reduces chances of damage, and makes for a cleaner product. Food insecurity is limited or uncertain access to adequate, nutritious food due to limited funds or resources. Arkansas has the highest rate of food insecurity in the nation, with 19.4% of households struggling to access consistent, nutritious meals. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Sunflowers

April 30, 2026

I have been having difficulty with the viability of some of the seeds I planted for my garden this year. I received the seeds at Christmas 2023 along with the raised beds I placed along the south side of our house. The box had 100 different packets of heirloom vegetables and flowers. Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated, non-GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) plant varieties passed down through generations, and often for over 50 years. These varieties are valued for unique flavor, regional adaptation, and historical significance. Unlike hybrids, they “come true to seed,” allowing savers to harvest and replant identical offspring. I had no problem with the seeds that first years and few problems the second, so I was surprised I was having difficulty growing this year. When I read the packages carefully, I saw any saved seed from a year would be viable for another 3 to 5 years based on the species. I also found while I had been gifted the seeds in 2023, the packages indicated they had been harvested in 2021. That meant all my seeds were going on five years old, or toward the end of their viability. That meant I either needed to plant the seeds this year (and hope they sprouted) or at least plant them by next year and again hope for the best. I decided to go ahead and plant three varieties of sunflowers in two of the beds along the house.

When I went online, I found common sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are a species of large annual forb of the daisy family Asteraceae that is harvested for its edible oily seeds often eaten as a snack food. They are also used in the production of cooking oil, food for livestock, bird food, and as plantings in domestic gardens for aesthetics. Wild plants are known for their multiple flower heads, whereas the domestic sunflower often possess a single large flower head atop an unbranched stem. The plant has an erect rough-hairy stem and reaches heights of 10 feet (3 m), but the tallest sunflower on record achieved 35 feet 9 inches (10.9 m). Sunflowers bloom in summer with the flower being a “flower head” (pseudanthium) of numerous small individual five-petaled flowers (“florets”). The outer flowers are sexually sterile and resemble petals (ray flowers) with each “petal” consisting of a ligule composed of fused petals of an asymmetrical ray flower and may be yellow, red, orange, or other colors. The spirally arranged flowers in the center of the head (disk flowers) mature into seeds.

I planted Mammoth sunflowers next to the house in the wildflower bed. I figured if the plants grew, they would not block the sun from the perineal flowers that had been established in the bed the previous year. For good measure I planted some common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), another perennial, between the bed and the Shirley Temple Peony (Paeonia lactiflora) along the front. We had planted Canna lily flower (Canna indica) and several bulbs in the bed on the side yard, but they had never produced. I thought I would give the bed a try with two other varieties of sunflowers (Lemon Queen and Autumn Beauty) this year and added a few more milkweed to boot. If any of these grow it will be a bonus. They were going to expire this year anyway.

THOUGHTS: While I was disappointed with the dwindling production from my seeds, I figured it could not hurt to plant things like the sunflowers and see if they might grow. The vegetables and all but a few of the flowers were identified as annual. Being heirloom, I could harvest the seed and have viable seed for years to come. Now, they have expired and production is tenuous. This is another hard lesson to learn, but better than that when you are in a sustainable situation. I can allow whatever does grow to go to seed and start the process again. As in life, it seems much is learned as a “2 steps forward, 3 steps back”. Samuel Smiles is credited with the quote, “We learn wisdom from failure much more than from success.” Keep trying. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Slime Mold

April 14, 2026

Today was time for a second planting of several vegetables in the raised beds. The seed package suggested I plant my peas (Pisum sativum) with a second planting two weeks later to ensure I had a continued harvest later during the season. I thought this was a good idea for my cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) as well. It was also time to plant the artichoke (Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus) seeds I had placed in the refrigerator (scored) two weeks ago to prepare them for planting. Scoring is done to “trick” the seeds into thinking they are coming out of Winter and into Spring. While I was placing the new seeds in the ground I found most of the seeds I had planted had yet to sprout, except for my radishes (Raphanus sativus). Something should have sprouted in all these seeds. After planting the new seeds, I watered the raised beds to keep all the unsprouted seed moist. Then I noticed several spots of bright yellow blobs clinging to the watering hoses in one of the beds. This appeared to be a form of slime mold.

When I went online, I found the yellow slime mold (Fuligo septica) in my garden is in the class Myxomycetes. It is commonly known as scrambled egg slime or flowers of tan because of its peculiar yellowish appearance, or even “dog vomit slime mold”. This slime mold is relatively common with worldwide distribution and is often found on bark, mulch, lawns, as well as other rotting organic matter in urban areas after heavy rain or excessive watering. The slime spores are produced on or in aerial spore cases (sporangia) and are spread by wind. Slime mold is a harmless, amoeba-like organism that is not a fungus, but a type of organism (protist) that feeds on bacteria and decomposes organic matter. Protists are a diverse group of (mostly) single-celled microorganisms that are not classified as plants, animals, or fungi, with a membrane-bound nucleus and thrive in moist environments. It is a plasmodial slime mold, meaning it can move (up to several feet in a day) across surfaces. Slime mold is not harmful to pets, humans, or plants.

I did not know what the slime mold was when I first saw it, although I knew it was not there when I checked the day before. Being inquisitive, I reached out and touched it (yes, this is how the Blob attached itself to humans before engulfing them). The blob disintegrated on my touch and left a slimy covering on my finger. Northern European folk lore attributed slime mold to witches and demons. In Scandinavia it is identified as the vomit of troll cats. In Finland, the mold was believed to be used by witches to spoil their neighbors’ milk and is called “paranvoi” (butter of the familiar spirit). Swedish folklore labels another slime (Tremella mesenterica) as the vomit of a witch’s “carrier” (familiar). Both are referred to in Dutch as “heksenboter” (witches’ butter), and in Latvian as “ragansviests” (witches’ butter) or “raganu spļāviens” (witches’ spit). At least “dog vomit” removes the slime from the realm of the supernatural. Finding the slime safe, I left the other intact.

THOUGHTS: The overcast skies and mild temperatures (70’sF/20’sC) have combined with my watering to grow more than just slime mold. The mulch in the paths around the raised beds are also growing mushrooms. This term is applied to two divisions of subkingdom Dikarya (Basidiomycota, Agaricomycetes). I remove the volunteer mushrooms that appear in my raised beds as they compete for the soil’s nutrients. I decided to leave the mulch plants as they were not hurting anything. When I went back outside to determine the species, the sun had come out and they had withered. Fungi are paradoxically both fragile and incredibly resilient, depending on their visible fruits (mushrooms) or their underlying microscopic network (mycelium). Humans often have a reverse characteristic, with a rough persona hiding a fragile psyche brought on by our exposure to stress, trauma, and emotional overload. This should be noted in interactions. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Rattail

April 12, 2026

Traveling 5 of 6 weeks in February and March not only got me behind getting my garden in the ground but also in Melissa’s care for her succulents. The good news is even with the 100’s of plants Melissa tends for she only needs to pay attention to about half of them at a time. Different succulents grow at different rates within a year depending on the temperature, with some becoming dormant and growing slower when the weather is too hot or too cold and turn active again when the temperatures are ideal for their growth. That is why succulents are known as “opportunistic growers”. Succulents can be put into categories as either summer or winter growers. Summer growers thrive in the hot months of summer (May to August) and are dormant in the winter, while winter growers thrive in the cold of winter (November to February) and are dormant in the summer. The primary care given to all of Melissa’s succulents is an occasional misting during dormancy and scant watering and careful observation and maintenance during growing season. When Melissa was able to get back at tending her succulents last week, she called me out to look at the blooms on her rattail cactus.

When I went online, I found the rattail cactus (Aporocactus flagelliformis) is a species of flowering plant in the cactus family Cactaceae. With its ease of cultivation and attractive floral displays it is often grown as an ornamental potted plant. The Latin specific epithet (flagelliformis) means “shaped like a whip”, in reference to the plant’s long stems. The common name “rattail” refers to the same feature. The species was one of the first cacti to be introduced into European culture. Watson (1898) offers the year 1690 but it was probably earlier. The species is native to the dry forests of the central Mexican state of Hidalgo north of Mexico City where it can grow naturally on rocks (lithophytic) or as rootless air plants (epiphytic) in the trees. Specimens are rare in nature and are seldom collected in the field. While rattail has always been one of the most popular cacti in cultivation, almost nothing is known about its natural habit. The rattail cactus is a recipient of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.

Rattail cacti are easy to grow and are suitable for either a greenhouse or container, indoors or out. Plants need a minimum temperature of 43F (6C). They should be grown in bright, indirect light, in a rich potting mix. The best compost consists of 4 parts of sandy loam and 1 part of equal quantities of sand and crushed brick. Rattail should be repotted every other year because their soil tends to sour. However, that does not mean they will need a larger pot. Once the plants are established, compost should be kept moist from April to October, with less water required from November until March, or just enough to keep stems from dying back. In the winter, old or discolored stems may be cut out at the base to encourage new growth. The rattail on our sunporch obviously made it through the dormancy of winter and greeted us with cascading blooms upon our return.

THOUGHTS: Rattail cactus, like most cacti, are summer growers and settle into dormancy during the winter. There are nine species of the Schlumbergera genus of cacti native to the coastal mountains of southeastern Brazil which reverse this rhythm. These species are collectively called “Holliday” cactus, with annual blooms arriving between November and April (i.e., Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus, or Easter cactus). This illustrates the diversity that exists in nature as plants and animals adapt to the specific conditions of different regions. Humans did the same, although less markedly so. We are (at least now) all the same species, only differentiated by the tools, clothes, and culture we use to adapt to our region. The main difference between all humanity is how we choose to differentiate ourselves from each other. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Starts

April 08, 2026

After I posted my last blog (Hardiness) I was informed (by Melissa) that the Hardiness Zones had indeed changed and we were no longer in 7b. The update that I had mentioned had reclassified the Arkansas River Valley as zone 8. According to the updated 2023 US Department of Agriculture map, Greenwood is now in Zone 8a. This indicates a moderate climate where average annual extreme minimum winter temperatures range from 10F to 15F (-12C to -9.5C) and the last spring frost typically occurs around March 25th to April 3rd. There is still 10% chance of a later frost lasting until April. That means my thinking I was testing the envelope by planting two weeks early was instead getting my seeds (and young plants) in the ground right on time. That worked out well as when I went to the local hardware store for several bags of potting soil I saw they had a big sale on both flowers and a variety of vegetables. Having already planted my seeds, I decided to go ahead and buy my plant starts as well.

When I went online, I found choosing between seeds and plants (starts) depends on your budget, time, and the plant type. Seeds are often better for fast-growing crops (better value and more variety) like lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and spinach (Spinacia oleracea), beans, and herbs. Starter plants are best for high-maintenance, slow-growing, or long-season crops like tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and peppers (Capsicum annuum) to guarantee a harvest. Seeds have the advantage of inexpensive, offer a variety of heirloom choices, and have healthier root systems. They require more patience and specialized equipment (lights/trays) to start them indoors to have them ready for the growing season. Starts can provide immediate gratification, save time, and have a higher success rate for beginners. They are more expensive and have limited variety. Small gardens benefit from buying plants to maximize production, while large gardens can save money using seeds. A mix of both seems best.

Last year I bought starts early and did not get them in the ground for a week. Even though I tried to keep them watered, they looked sickly by the time they were planted and several died forcing me to buy new starts to replace the ones I previously bought. This year I ended up buying my starts early in the afternoon but knew I needed to get them in the ground. I worked into the evening remixing potting soil, planting six jalapeño peppers, five bell peppers, and three varieties of tomatoes. Melissa likes the Sweet 100’s for salads (2 starts), I like Roma (6 starts) for canning pasta sauce, and then Arkansas Travelers (3 starts) for slicing. That left 3 Traveler starts (pack of 6) that I did not have pots for. There was a major rain forecast for the evening, so I pushed on to plant three rows of sweet corn (Zea mays convar) in the bed I had used last year for my Three Sisters (corn, beans, squash). Everything was done in time for the three inches (7.5 cm) of rain to set everything into the soil.

THOUGHTS: Having planted my starts I was ready for the growing season, but still had several starts not in the ground. Monday Melissa and I cleared last year’s potato beds for watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) and honeydew melon (Cucumis melo) starts. I planted the zucchini and spaghetti squash (Cucurbita pepo) in large pots and found three grow bags for the leftover Travelers. In total we have three soil beds, four raised beds, and 27 containers with a variety of seeds and starts. I also believe a mix seems to work best. That is true with my small garden, but also with our nation and world. Every dystopian society depicted in sci-fi movies is the result of a controlled lack of diversity. While that may just be perception, it is also borne out with historic civilization examples. Diversity is our strength, not a weakness. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.