Ash Borer

January 12, 2026

Yesterday’s local newspaper carried a USA Today article on a project designed to restore native ash populations to the state of New York.  The ash saplings planted at Cornell Botanic Gardens as part of the Nature Conservancy’s Trees in Peril project are part of an effort to restore the disappearing species.  Ash has long been valued for its lumber and is used in baseball bats, tool handles, flooring, and fireplaces.  The invasive species attacking the trees was first discovered by entomologist Mike Griggs on Cornell University’s campus, as tree canopy dieback, yellowing and browning of leaves.  The condition had spread farther west in the state in 2009, and quarantine zones were established in 2015 to block the spread.  Accord­ing to the NY State Department of Environmental Conservation, the emerald ash borer has killed millions of trees across the US, caused billions of dollars in damage and loss, and overtaken virtually all of New York state.

When I went online, I found the emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis), or EAB, is a green jewel beetle (buprestid) native to north-eastern Asia that feeds on ash species (Fraxinus spp.).  Adult beetles are typically bright metallic green and about 0.33 inches (8.5 mm) long and 0.063 inches (1.6 mm) wide.  Emerald ash borer is the only North American species of Agrilus with a bright red upper abdomen when its wings are spread.  The species has a small spine at the tip of the abdomen, and saw-like (serrate) antennae that begins at the fourth antennal segment.  Females lay eggs in bark crevices on ash trees and the larvae feed underneath the bark to emerge as adults in one to two years.  The ash borer is typically found at low densities in its native range and does not cause significant damage to trees but is a highly destructive invasive species to the ash trees of Europe and North America.  Adults prefer to lay eggs in stressed ash but readily lay eggs in healthy trees among other tree species.  Little was known of the ash borer before it was found in North America. 

Local governments are attempting to control the ash borer by monitoring its spread, diversifying tree species, and using insecticides and biological control.  A significant discovery was made by the US Forest Service when they found relatively healthy trees amidst a forest of dead trees.  The surviving trees, called lingering ash, could serve as a catalyst for repopulating ash populations across the US.  The ash borer larvae tunnel through the living tissue and with 100’s of 1000’s of insects in each tree can essential girdle the tree making it impossible to transport resources between the canopy and roots.  Researchers found some lingering ash can “wall off” the larvae and prevent the insects from girdling the tree.  A second possible defense is related to the organic compounds emitted by ash trees during photosynthesis and used by the ash borer to detect the trees.  If an individual tree does not produce those chemicals or does so at low levels, the tree becomes “invisible” to the insects.  The goal of the project is to propagate 50 to 60 genotypes of trees of each of the three ash species (white, green, and black).  In 5 to 6 years cuttings (scions) will be collected and the process repeated.  The lingering ash will then be planted among susceptible trees to restore ash to the forest environment.

THOUGHTS: The Emerald Ash Borer likely arrived in North America from Asia in the 1990’s hidden in solid wood packing materials (crates and pallets) used in cargo ships.  Detection in the US was in Michigan in 2002.  This accidental introduction allowed the invasive beetle to spread rapidly, killing millions of ash trees.  Movement of infested firewood by humans accelerated its spread across the continent.  The predators and diseases that naturally keep the ash borer in check do not exist in North America.  Developing the lingering ash would be a significant check on yet another invasive species.  Otherwise, Major League Baseball will be forced to use aluminum bats.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Last Fruits

December 27, 2025

Back in August I blogged about my first attempt to grow a second yield in my raised beds (2nd Crop).  I replanted several of the vegetables that had done well in the spring (and that I liked).  For some reason, few of the vegetables sprouted.  What sprouted were the cabbages, cauliflower (both Brassica oleracea), and about half of the peas (Pisum sativum).  When it looked like we were going to get our first freeze in November I had covered the plants with bed sheets held above the plants with garden hoops.  I had done this in previous years and found it to be effective (and reusable).  The peas were harvested and eaten in salads prior to our trip, but I just let the brassica go to see if they would ever mature.  The cabbage never did head and the cauliflower never balled.  I thought about tearing them out, but the plants still had robust leaves.  Last week I finally gave up and pulled the plants.  I did not know what I would do with them, but cabbage leaves were the garden’s last fruits.

When I went online, I found cabbage leaves are completely edible, including the outer ones.  The texture and flavor will vary from the inner leaves.  Both types of leaves can be used raw in salads, cooked in soups, sautéed, or even used as wraps for other fillings.  The outer leaves are tougher but also more nutritious due to their exposure to the sun and can be blanched or used as wraps or stuffed as rolls.   The inner leaves are more tender and sweeter and are good for raw applications.  All the leaves should be washed to remove dirt and checked for insects and bad spots before preparation.  I ended with a large pile of outer leaves and a smaller pile of inner (sorta) leaves that I decided to make into sauerkraut anyway.  I washed the leaves, cut out the woody stems, and sliced the outer leaves for over an hour before the amount of work made me rethink processing the entire pile.  Instead, I went with what I had and then processed the smaller pile of inner leaves in the same way.  Sauerkraut was still a long way off, so I put the bowls of last fruits in the refrigerator

Two days later (today) I decided to finish processing my last fruits.  I added salt to the bowls of leaves and kneaded it for 5 minutes to break the leaves down and then packed them into quart jars, one for the outer leaves and another for the inner.  Working with my last fruits got me motivated to work the tomatoes frozen tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum) from August into more canned pasta sauce.  I added two red onions (Allium cepa) and three cans of diced tomatoes from the pantry along with spices and simmered it for four hours to render it down and meld the flavors.  While the sauce was finishing up, I brought the water bath to boil to sterilize four 1-quart jars and lids.  While I only used three, I have found it is easier to not use a jar than try and prepare another jar while everything else is ready.   I transferred the sauce into the jars, added lemon juice (for acidity), and let them boil for 45 minutes.  My last fruits were finished.

THOUGHTS: When we went to dinner with our gardening friends just before Christmas, I told her I had harvested my last fruits and planned to make sauerkraut.  That was when she asked if I had started planning what to grow in my beds and containers next year.  While I have begun to think about next year, there is hardly a plan.  That is the thing about gardening (or farming), you can never stop planning, or you will quickly get behind.  The same can be said for reaching out to those who need help.  If you do not plan and then act to make a difference, you will be overcome by apathy.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Lady Beetle

November 20, 2025

Last week Melissa and I were in a wooded area along the Arkansas River when we were inundated by flying insects.  Many species overwinter as adults sheltering in culverts, under bridges, or cavities in trees.  In the spring they will wake up and get along with starting the next generation.  Other than the short cold snap last week, we have been having nice weather this fall so these fliers may not have even begun the process.  Hibernating adults are also known to come out on unseasonably warm days.  The temperature was uncommonly warm (high 70’sF/25+C) so it would not have surprised me to find some insects buzzing around, these were literally everywhere.  I do not believe I have ever seen so many Asian lady beetle in one place.

When I went online, I found a lady beetle or ladybird (Harmonia axyridis) is a species commonly known as the harlequin, Asian, or multicolored Asian lady beetle.  This is one of the most variable lady beetle species in the world with a wide range of color forms.  The species is native to eastern Asia and has been artificially introduced to North America and Europe to control aphids (family Aphididae) and scale insects (Superfamily, Coccoidea).  It is now common and spreading in those regions and has also been established in Africa and across South America.  Individuals are beetles in shape and structure, being domed and having a “smooth” transition between their wing coverings (elytra), thorax (pronotum), and head.  It ranges from 0.22 to 0.34 inches (5.5 to 8.5 mm) in size.  The common color form is orange or red with 0 to 22 black spots of variable size.  The bright color makes the species conspicuous in North America and may be known locally as the Halloween beetle as they often invade homes during October to overwinter.

The Asian lady beetle is considered one of the world’s most invasive insects, due in part to their tendency to overwinter indoors.  They have an unpleasant odor and stain left by their bodily fluids when frightened or crushed, along with a tendency to bite humans.  In Europe they are increasing to the detriment of indigenous species as its voracious appetite enables it to outcompete (and consume) other ladybugs.  The Asian is highly resistant to diseases and carries a microsporidian parasite (it is immune) that can kill other lady beetle species.  Native ladybug species often experience dramatic declines from the invaders.  They were declared the fastest-invading species in the UK in 2015, spreading throughout the country after the first confirmed sighting in 2004.  The Asian lady beetle has been reported to be a minor agricultural pest that has been inadvertently harvested with crops in Iowa, Ohio, New York State, and Ontario.  This causes a detectable and distinctly unpleasant taste known as “lady beetle taint”.  The contamination of grapes by the beetle has also been found to alter the taste of wine.

THOUGHTS: Various methods of control have been tried where the Asian lady beetle has been introduced, causing a threat to native species, biodiversity, and to the grape industry.  These include insecticides, trapping, removal of beetles, and mechanically preventing entry to buildings.  The best methods for dealing with the Asian lady beetle in private homes involve sealing openings they enter and sweeping or vacuuming if they are inside.  Placing a nylon stocking inside the vacuum cleaner’s hose and securing it with a rubber band keeps the beetles from collecting (and being crushed) inside the machine.  Despite the dozens of beetles that landed on Melissa and me we were not bitten.  I have been bitten before and it was a sharp (but not lasting) pain.  Once again importing a species to get rid of another caused more problems than it solved.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Citrus

November 19, 2025

I have been winterizing my garden for the last several weeks.  That means taking down the trellises for storage and removing what is left of the plants.  I mentioned how I tore out the tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) vines in mid-October, resulting in 14 jars of salsa verde.   I did keep three vines on the off chance the fruit would ripen but gave up on them last week.  While I did have several fruits that had begun to ripen, most were solid green.  I was surprised as several more of the green tomatoes have ripened on the counter.  I harvested one head lettuce (Lactuca sativa) that grew, and we ate it as a salad last night.  The one spinach (Spinacia oleracea) that grew will become a wilted spinach salad for tonight along with fried green tomatoes.  I blanched the ripe/partially ripe tomatoes and froze them to make pasta sauce later.  I still have six cabbage (Brassica oleracea) I am holding out for sauerkraut.  They have yet to form a head so they will probably not make it before the frost.  Only about a third of the second crop peas (Pisum sativum) grew and are now producing pods.  We will finish them this week.  This year I am also trying another tact to preserve my citrus trees.

When I went online, I found Citrus is a genus of flowering trees and shrubs in the family Rutaceae that produce fruits.  Citrus is native to South Asia, East Asia, Southeast Asia, Melanesia, and Australia where indigenous people have used and domesticated various species since ancient times.  Citrus cultivation first spread into Micronesia and Polynesia through the Austronesian expansion (3000 to 1500 BCE), later spread to the Middle East and the Mediterranean (1200 BCE) via the incense trade route, and then from Europe to the Americas.  Citrus fruits are renowned for their fragrant aromas and complex flavor and are among the most popular fruits in cultivation.  The plants tend to hybridize between species making their taxonomy complicated.  The numerous varieties cover a wide range of appearance and fruit flavors.  Many important citrus crops have been developed through extensive hybridization, including oranges (Citrus macroptera), lemons (Citrus limon), grapefruits (Citrus paradisi), and limes (Citrus aurantiifolia) which all have many cultivars.

Two years ago, I purchased two citrus trees (limon and lime) hoping to grow my own fruit.  These were 4 feet (1.3 m) tall, and the seller suggested I might even get a few fruits that first year.  While the lime never fruited, the limon did have one fruit that I used for zest.  I had placed them in pots seated on rolling carriers to move them inside as I did not think they would survive the winter.  It proved impractical to move them indoors, so I bought protective covers to keep out the frost.  Citrus trees are evergreen and keep their foliage year-round, but stress from sudden temperature drops, low light (especially indoors), or lack of humidity can cause them to shed leaves.  When I removed the covers in late winter the leaves and most of the branches were dead.  I thought they had completely died, but they both began to sprout new stems by the spring.  This year I am putting them in the garage to protect them from the bitter cold.  Now to get them some light (grow lamps?).

THOUGHTS: It made more sense why my citrus trees died when I found out they were evergreen.  While some leaves may fall, they still need sunlight, water, and moderate temperatures.  Covering them deprived them of sunlight and never watering them dried them out.  Melissa told me when we return from our trip, she will make room on the sunporch so they can winter with the succulents.  I am hopeful they will continue to thrive under these conditions.  Much like my citrus trees, humans also need the right conditions to survive.  That includes adequate food, safe water, and protection from the elements (clothing and shelter).  A study focusing on low- and middle-income countries suggests 4.4 billion people lack safe drinking water and the WHO found 1 in 4 lack safe access to water.  We need to find another tact.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Screwworm

November 10, 2025

The Sunday before Halloween, the Homes section of my local newspaper ran a Reutters article detailing a new sterile fly plant added in Mexico.  In Metapa, Mexico, engineers, veterinarians, and entomologists are racing to repurpose a plant that will play a pivotal role in trying to eradicate the flesh-eating fly threatening the country’s cattle industry and raising tensions with the US.  The facility used to help control Mediterranean fruit flies, but workers are dismantling old infrastructure and rebuilding specialized laboratories designed to mimic the conditions of an animal wound.  The plant aims to be ready by July 2026 and would double the number of sterile flies Mexico can release into the wild.  The US has kept its border mostly closed to Mexican cattle imports since May 2025 and has invested US$21 million towards the US$51 million facility in Chiapas state in an effort to keep the screwworm fly out of America.

When I went online, I found the New World screwworm fly (Cochliomyia hominivorax), or simply screwworm, is a species of parasitic blowfly which is present in the New-World tropics.  The screwworm larvae (maggots) eat the living tissue of warm-blooded animals.  Of the four species of Cochliomyia, only the species hominivorax is parasitic, but a single parasitic species of Old-World screwworm fly is placed in a different genus (Chrysomya bezziana).  The maggots of many fly species eat dead flesh and may occasionally infest an old and putrid wound.  Infestation of a live vertebrate animal by the screwworm maggot (myiasis) is unusual because they attack healthy tissue, increasing the chances of infection, which then attracts more flies.  Screwworm females lay 250 to 500 eggs in the exposed flesh which hatch and burrow into the surrounding tissue as they feed.  If the wound is disturbed during this time, the larvae burrow or “screw” deeper into the flesh, giving the larva its common name.  The maggots can cause severe tissue damage or even death to the host.  About three to seven days after hatching, the larvae fall to the ground to pupate, reaching the adult stage about seven days later.  The female will mate four to five days after hatching and can lay up to 3,000 eggs and fly up to 120 miles (200 km) during her life.  Males mate up to ten times, but females mate only once and retain the male’s sperm for life, leading to the sterile eradication technique.

The screwworm was the first species to be tested with the sterile insect technique and resulted in control and systematic eradication of the species from the US, Central America, and parts of the Caribbean beginning in the 1950’s.  The US and Mexico bred and released more than 94 billion sterile flies from 1962 to 1975.  By the early 2000’s, it was considered eradicated from North America, but was detected in Mexico in 2024 and 2025, prompting renewed efforts to prevent its re-emergence.  The fly is still widespread in tropical and subtropical parts of the Caribbean and South America and animals imported from these areas must be inspected or treated to prevent the pest’s reintroduction.  Eradication efforts continued and in 1998 the first sterile flies were released in Panama with the goal of creating a barrier zone at the Darién Gap against a screwworm invasion.  This is achieved through weekly sterile screwworm releases of up to 50 million insects bred in factories and sterilized by ionizing radiation.  The bred insects must not suffer any impairment to compete with wild, fertile insects.  In September 2025, a case of New World screwworm was found in Sabinas Hidalgo, Mexico, less than 70 miles (110 km) from the US-Mexico border.

THOUGHTS: When sterile screwworm males’ mate with wild females no offspring are produced, and the population collapses over time.  Coordinator Jose Luis Quintero said, “The screwworm was eradicated once before in Mexico — it took 19 years.  We hope to do it in far less time.”  Let’s hope that is the case.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Freeze

November 08, 2025

The front page of yesterday’s local newspaper ran a USA Today article telling gardeners how to prepare for the impending cold snap.  The first frost in Arkansas’ River Valley usually takes place around November 5.  Scot Covert, chief meteorologist at KFSM-TV, said we will be a little late this year, “we’re looking at Monday the 10th.”  Even before temperatures dip to 32 F (0C), frost can form in low lying areas like gardens (raised beds?) as plants cool faster than the surrounding air.  Randy Forst, extension educator with the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, said, “All indoor tropical plants and house plants should be moved into an area that does not go below 35 degrees.”   If you do not take this precaution, it is likely they will freeze.

When I went online, I found that a freeze will damage vegetables by causing ice crystals to form and expand inside the plant which ruptures the cell walls.  A freeze can cause visible damage like wilting, blackening, or water-soaked areas in the leaves.  While most vegetables are negatively affected by freezing (while in the ground), root vegetables and cabbages (brassicas) can become sweeter after a light frost as the cold converts their starches to sugars.  After they thaw, freeze-damaged vegetables are often softer and mushier than their fresh counterparts.  A hard freeze (28F/-2C for several hours) can kill plants outright.  That is particularly true for warm season crops like tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and peppers (Capsicum annuum).  Freezing halts the growth of microorganisms but does not stop all enzymatic activity, which can lead to a loss of quality over time.  That is one reason to blanche your fresh vegetables before placing them in the freezer.

Forst went on the say cool-season vegetables that can tolerate a freeze should be covered to prevent leaf-tip burn.  A bigger concern during this time of year is drought.  Arkansas does not tend to get the moisture needed to keep outdoor plants hydrated.  You need to water outside plants if it does not rain at least once a week.  Outdoor perennials can also use extra care.  Once a frost happens you should clip back the dead foliage and then cover the crown with a biodegradable mulch.  Annuals that bloom during the cool season should continue to receive a water-soluble fertilizer once a month.  Four types of action should be taken to aid your garden and outdoor plants.   Once the temps fall below 40F (4.4C) houseplants should be moved inside.  On clear, calm nights vegetables should be covered if the temps will get into the mid-30’sF (1.6C), then be sure to uncover them when temps rise back into the 40’s+F (4.4+C).  Outdoor plants should be watered weekly if there is low rainfall.  Finally, mulch any perennials after the frost kills the top growth.  These actions will aid your plants’ regrowth the following spring.  I had better cover my plants tomorrow.

THOUGHTS: My vegetables are not the only thing I need to protect against a freeze.  We purchased a used C class RV and it is now approaching our first winter.  Everything I have read extolls the virtue of winterizing the unit if you are going to store it during the cold months.  Part of the process involves draining and pouring food grade antifreeze into the lines and tanks.  Once I do this, I cannot use the RV until I again drain and flush the lines.  While I should just bite the bullet and shut the unit down, I have wavered to the point where it is almost too late.  Our repair person told me the lines are enclosed within the vehicle so I should be fine turning on the water tank heaters and the furnace set low to keep everything warm.  The freeze is set to only last two nights and then it will warm up to the 70’sF again.  I hope I do not regret this decision.  We often delay action until it is too late.  We must address our environmental and communal issues/disagreements now rather than later.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Variegated

November 05, 2025

As Fall stretched into late October, I was amazed by the dozens of pollinators which still flocked to the wildflower bed in front of our house.  My guess is they are still stocking up for a flight south or survival during the long winter.  We have several coneflowers (family, Asteraceae) along with a proliferation of orange sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus).  Yesterday afternoon was bright, sunny, and in the mid-70 F’s (24 C’s) and they were still out in full force.  There were several late traveling monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) along with dozens of bumblebees (Genus, Bombus) flitting from flower to flower.  There was also a new arrival (at least I had not noticed) with several smaller brightly colored butterflies.  Two characteristics struck me about these Lepidoptera.  First was the speed they were traveling as they drew nectar from around the bed, the second was variegated wings.

When I went online, I found the variegated fritillary (Euptoieta claudia) is a North and South American butterfly in the family Nymphalidae.  The variegated flight is low and swift and even when collecting nectar, the species is extremely difficult to approach.  This has earned the genus name which taken from the Greek “euptoietos” meaning “easily scared”.  The wingspan of the adult variegated measures 1.75 to 2.25 inches (44 to 57 mm).  The upper side of the wings is checkered with orange and black, and both the fore and hind wings have a row of submarginal black spots and black median lines running across them.  The underside of the forewing is orange with a pale orange spot rimmed in black in the forewing cell.  The underside of the hindwing is mottled with browns and grays with a pale postmedian band.  The variegated fritillary has three very different characteristics that distinguish them from the genus of greater fritillaries (Speyeria fritillaries), but it is still closely related to them.  Variegated fritillaries have two or three broods per year (Speyeria one), are nomadic (Speyeria sedentary), and use a wide variety of host plants (Speyeria only violets). 

While the variegated fritillary is nomadic, it is not (officially) migratory like the monarch.  Instead, it overwinters in its caterpillar stage in the leaf litter, seeking shelter and entering a dormant state (diapause).  In warmer climates, adult butterflies may also overwinter.  In Arkansas the adults need to either migrate south or they will die (freeze).  Caterpillars can survive Arkansas’ winter temperatures and will emerge from their hibernation to form cocoons (pupate) in the spring.  The survival of the caterpillars (or adults farther South) depends on factors like predation, temperature, and the amount of insulation provided by leaf litter.  When weather conditions improve in the Spring the caterpillars emerge from their winter hibernation to continue their life cycle.  While I was planning on clearing the bed and scattering the seed, perhaps I should wait until new life emerges in Spring.

THOUGHTS: I can attest to the “euptoietos” nature of the variegated fritillary.  It took me 10 minutes for one to wait long enough on a flower to get a picture.  The butterflies would fly up to 30 feet (10 m) away and then dart back to seek out another flower or two before repeating the maneuver.  I find it interesting how different species have adapted to survival during the cold months of winter.  This also explains how a warm day can bring out a swam of flying insects as they emerge from their sheltered refuge.  Humans do not naturally go dormant (hibernate) because our bodies lack the necessary biological adaptations to enter a state of deep sleep with a significantly lower body temperature and metabolic rate.  The earliest evidence of controlled use of fire dates back at least 1.8 million years ago, but evidence for habitual or widespread use of fire does not become clear until around 400,000 years ago.  We rely on protective structure, clothes, or sources of heat to achieve what nature has given other species.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Pickle de Gallo

November 04, 2025

I was surprised when I walked through my local grocery store last week to see how many shelves were either light or empty.  We have had several runs on food over the last several years between covid, supply chain shortages, and tariffs.  The government shutdown is the latest (presumed) cause of the shortage.  Food subsidies like the US Department of Agriculture’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) and the Women’s, Infants, Children (WIC) program were slated to lose funding on November 1.  Apparently, some were using the last of their monthly paychecks to purchase food while it was still available (affordable?).  You can imagine my surprise when I walked by the cheese and deli meat cold case to find new stocked items.  The cold case displayed Pickle de Gallo in mild, medium, and hot.

When I went online, I found the Pickle de Gallo, also known as pickle salsa, is packaged by Grillo’s Pickles who is owned by King’s Hawaiian (as of April 2021).  The company was founded by Travis Grillo in 2008 and developed the idea from a pickle cart on the Boston Common using a 100-year-old family recipe.  The biggest difference between fresh and non-refrigerated shelf pickles (Cucumis sativus) is pasteurization.  Grillo’s are made through a “fresh pickling” process using vinegar as the main active agent and are neither fermented nor pasteurized.  This means they need to be kept at refrigerated temperatures to ensure both quality and freshness are maintained.  Eddie Andre, director of brand experience at Grillo’s Pickles says, “If you see the top of the lid domed up or bubbled, this typically means the product has fermented and gone bad.”  Jarred pickles can remain unopened in the fridge for years.  Even after they are opened, they are still good for up to two years in the refrigerator.  Since fresh pickles aren’t pasteurized, they should be eaten within 75 days.

The Pickle de Gallo recipes I found were almost identical to the Pico de Gallo I have made every year since I started my garden five years ago.  This is usually made from early tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and jalapeño peppers (Capsicum annuum).  This year I did not get an early crop, with almost no peppers and only enough tomatoes to make my pasta sauce (along with the green tomato Salsa Verde).  The difference between Pico and Pickle de Gallo is substituting pickles for tomatoes.  Chop the pickles jalapenos and onion (Allium cepa) into small pieces and mix in cilantro paste (Coriandrum sativum) and lime (Citrus aurantiifolia) juice.  I did not use spices as my canned dill pickles already had spices and garlic (Allium sativum).  The directions said to refrigerate the Gallo for at least 30 minutes to let the flavors mix.  I tried some with a chip and it was good (but different). 

THOUGHTS: Melissa is not a pickle fan and was not thrilled with the Pickle de Gallo.  I used an entire pint jar from my canning pantry (11 jars left).  The dills are good, but the storebought spice mixture is too salty for me and I wash the pickles before I eat them.  The advantage of making your own pickling mixture is you know what is in the brine.  I will probably make at least one more jar of the Pickle this year.  Even canned, pickles do not last forever once they are opened.  I enjoy trying new dishes made from the produce from my garden and the Pickle de Gallo is another way to use my crop.  Some of the dishes were excellent, and all were edible.  Approximately 40% of the food produced in the US is wasted, occurring at every stage of the food supply chain (from farm to home).  A large portion ends up in landfills and generates powerful greenhouse gas (methane).  The waste is compounded by the fact that 41 million Americans face food insecurity.  It reminds me of the sign at a buffet, “Take all you want, but eat all you take”.  We need to find ways to avoid wasting food and getting it to those in need.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Holes

October 28, 2025

Yesterday Melissa and I were ripped awake at 4:30 am by the sound of Loki’s frantic barking.  Something outside had obviously set him off and he was sounding the alarm.  Melissa was able to quiet him down and I was able to immediately fall asleep.  Melissa was not so lucky.  Even though he was no longer sounding his alarm, both Loki and Zena continued to grumble and give little chirp barks.  Zena got up in my living room chair (her comfort zone in thunderstorms), but Loki kept running back and forth between the dining room window and the front hall for the next hour.  When I got up in the morning, I was wondering what set Loki off.  I went outside to check on my vegetables and make sure nothing had gotten into the few remaining plants in the raised beds.  I had removed the cantaloupe (Cucumis melo) vines after they had stopped producing but there are still one mature and two small watermelons (Citrullus lanatus) in the tall bed.  The tall bed is 30 inches (76 cm) and has not been targeted (yet), but raccoons (Procyon lotor) have eaten several cantaloupes in the shorter 18-inch (45.7 cm) bed in the past.  My watermelons were intact but as I walked back to the house, I noticed several dozen small holes in the lawn between the rose bush (genus, Rosa hybrid) and the wildflower (family, Primulaceae) beds.  

When I went online, I found that raccoons are one of the main animals that dig holes in your yard.  The holes are usually cone-shaped and three to four inches (7.5 to 10 cm) wide, but larger areas up to ten inches (25 cm) may occur.  The holes are created when raccoons are foraging for grubs and other insects. According to Clemson University, raccoons will peel back newly laid sod while searching for food.  Raccoons are omnivorous and eat a variety of plants and animals.  In cities and suburban areas, they dig for grubs and larval insects, eat vegetables and fruit grown in backyards, root through compost piles, steal picnic and pet food that has been left outdoors, and turn over garbage cans in search of food.  According to the University of California, these night creatures can live unnoticed for quite some time as they make their homes in hollow trees, outbuildings, brush piles, rock crevices, a raccoon burrow, crawl spaces, culverts, storm drains, attics, chimneys, or under decks.  Raccoons dig holes in lawns in search of grubs (uperfamily, Scarabaeoidea), earthworms (Lumbricus terrestris), and other insects.

Raccoons have a keen sense of smell which allows them to dig holes to find insect larvae under the grass.  The best way to keep raccoons from digging holes in your yard is to address the grub problem or using deterrents.  Treat your lawn for grubs, especially in late summer and fall, and use methods like motion-activated sprinklers or lights to scare them away.  You can also cover the lawn with netting or chicken wire to create a physical barrier and prevent digging.  You need to maintain proper lawn care, as poor watering practices can make your lawn more attractive to grubs.  If your lawn is damaged, repair it promptly.  If sod has been flipped, reposition it, water it, and consider using a root-building fertilizer to help it re-establish.  I guess it is time for my fall bug-be-gone dusting.

THOUGHTS: I was able to flip the sod on the larger holes that had been made in our yard, but I did not get the bug-be-gone down.  I told myself this would give me something to do today.  Most adult beetles in Arkansas are active in the summer and lay their eggs in the grassy areas.  The eggs hatch and the larva begin to feed on the surface of the soil for several weeks before moving deeper as the fall temps cool.  Arkansas winters are relatively mild, and summers are hot and humid, so the two treatment windows are late summer to early fall (preventive and biological control) and late spring to early summer (curative for spring-feeding pests).  Otherwise, I have holes in my yard.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.

Wavy-lined

October 14, 20254

Melissa tends to keep the back door to the porch open to help provide a breeze and keep down the humidity for the succulents.  If the air conditioner is not running, she will often keep the house door open as well.  This provides a breeze for us and allows the kids to roam freely in and out of the house without having to get up every time they hear a noise or want to go outside.  While this is convenient, it allows house flies (Musca domestica), moths (order, Lepidoptera), and other flying insects (and occasional birds) to fly enter both the porch and the main house.  I have tried to combat this by placing a bug-zapper next to the doorway.  The blue light is not visible during the day but does attract moths at night.  When it is time for a final constitutional, Loki will wait at the door for Melissa or I to go first to “protect” him from the sounds of the moths hitting the zapper.  When I got up yesterday, I noticed one of the moths had avoided the zapper and was attached to the wall above the kitchen sink.  When I looked closer the moth’s coloration was “wavy-lined”.

When I went online, I found the wavy-lined emerald moth (Synchlora aerate), or camouflaged looper, is a species of moth of the family Geometridae.  The species is found in the US and Canada and was described by Johan Christian Fabricius in 1798.  There are dozens of species in the subfamily of emeralds in North America.  Most look incredibly similar, being green (sometimes tan) and typically resting with their wide wings spread out to the sides.  The key identifying features for the species are the mildly wavy white lines that run across the wings, a pale green fringe on the wings, and a long, thin white stripe running the whole length of the abdomen.  The adult wingspan is about 0.67 inches (17 mm).  The caterpillar of this species is an inchworm (looper) that camouflages itself from predators with small clippings from flower petals they are feeding on.  The wavy-lined is a common moth that has two or three broods a year and overwinters as a partially grown larva. 

The wavy-lined emerald moth is an important food for birds and other predators.  While some insects use camouflage or mimicry to outwit predators, the wavy-lined caterpillar blends these two defenses.  Insect camouflage often refers to creatures like stick bugs (order, Phasmatodea) that have evolved to look like their surroundings.  Mimicry means looking like a completely different creature, like the less toxic Viceroy Butterfly (Limenitis archippus) which looks like the toxic Monarch (Danaus plexippus).  The wavy-lined larva will attach bits of the plant material on which it is feeding to its back with bits of silk to blend into its host plant and avoid detection.  When it feeds on a different plant it will “wear” the appropriate foliage.  These fragments start off colorful (to blend in with the flower) and then dry out to look like a chunk of debris.  It also seems to detach and replace the parts as they wilt, keeping the larvae covered in fresh adornments that match its meal.  While it is essentially using camouflage, the insect is an active participant in the process, mimicking whatever flower it feeds on. 

THOUGHTS: While I have no problem swatting the flies and mosquitoes (family, Culicidae) that invade my house, I did not feel threatened or bothered by the wavy-lined emerald moth.  It spent the entire day resting on the wall as Melissa and I came and went around the sink, allowing me to admire its delicate lines many times.  When I got up this morning the moth was gone.  Hopefully it made it past the bug zapper on its way outside.  Most insects tend to go about their business and do not seek out humans.  Flies and mosquitoes are an exception and use humans as a source of food (dead skin, blood), water (sweat), and salt.  The fact that the moths are aesthetically pleasing is another plus.  Sometimes I need to remind myself that every creature has a role to play in the larger biome.  Act for all.  Change is coming and it starts with you.