Nuisance

August 31, 2026

I blogged earlier about the two immature raccoon (Procyon lotor) invaders the dogs had surprised in our backyard and chased up under the eaves of the house. I put the kids inside and coaxed them down, but one fell in the pool and I had to fish it out with the skimmer. I hoped this would scare the pair so they would keep out of the yard, or at least out of the window feeders. A week ago, I let the kids out at night, and they trapped a raccoon on the fence above the squirrel feeder. I had given up trying to deter the red squirrels (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) and dedicated two feeders away from the others with cracked corn (Zea mays) and whole peanuts (Arachis hypogaea). Large birds like the northern cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis), blue jay (Cyanocitta cristata) and grackle (Quiscalus quiscula) seem to like these seeds more than the squirrels, and the squirrels traverse the entire fence to get to the smaller seed. Two nights ago, one of the raccoons was brave enough to again tackle the window feeders. The kids were going crazy at four am and when Melissa turned on the light it jumped off the ledge and crashed through a nearby table of potted succulents, knocking several to the ground and breaking three of the terra cotta pots. They had moved from invaders to a nuisance.

When I went online, I found several sites touting ways to get rid of a raccoon nuisance. I chose one that tested “5 ways to get rid of raccoon’s”. The first used scent-based raccoon repellents, like ammonia, mothballs, predator urine, or essential oils. These worked but washed away in rain and needed to be constantly reapplied. Motion-activated sprinklers blasts water when the animal gets too close but after a few nights the raccoon dodged the spray, waited for it to quit, and crept back in. A third was floodlights but after a few nights the raccoons adapted to the light and felt safe to again go for food. Humane traps and relocating the animals work but it is not always legal and new raccoons may come to take their place. The best solution was a combination of ultrasonic sound waves and flashing LED lights. The ultrasonic frequencies are silent to humans but irritating to raccoons, and the motion-activated lights are a visual deterrent. This gave me a link for the best solar powered stake that “Works automatically, requires no upkeep, and is completely humane.” I realized this was a veiled sales pitch, but other sites came to the same conclusion. It sounded like the best solution

While the ultrasonic deterrent may be the best way to discourage our nuisance, there were other considerations. The raccoon was encroaching on an area used by the kids, and they could hear the sound when they went out to play. None of our local stores carried this product and online it would take three days to two weeks to arrive. I needed something tonight. That led me to the scents. I found sprays that all contained a 4% solution of peppermint oil. That made me think about making my own spray using the known deterrents of vinegar, garlic, and peppermint. I purchased a spray and a bottle of peppermint extract thinking I could figure it out. One of the bottles had pictures of what nuisances it drove away, and one was a bird. The nuisance was the raccoons getting into the bird feeders and I could not spray around the feeders without driving off the birds. My solution was the simplest. I took the window feeders down last night because of the nuisance and put them up again in the morning for the birds.

Thoughts: The number one response I found for solving my nuisance problem was to remove the food that was bringing the raccoons. Feeding the raccoons is not good for their long-term survival nor for my garden and bird watching. While this involves more work on my part (not much), it solves the problem in an ecofriendly way. One reason behind many destructive human projects is to make our lives easier. When this happens at the expense of the environment, we need to find alternative solutions. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Prarie Lizard

August 26, 2026

I started late this morning and the “feels like” temperature was already 101F (38C), so even the shaded park path seemed too much for the kids (and me). I knew the brief rain we got last night was not enough to keep my seed damp in the sun. The sparrows (Passer domesticus) and finches (Haemorhous mexicanus) scattered as I walked onto the pool deck to fill the feeders and give my plants a shot of water. The birds had attacked several of the tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) I was letting ripen on the vine, so I picked the ripe fruits (about 20) along with 10 red jalapenos (Capsicum annuum). Next, I went out to give the seeds in the raised bed a good drink. As I walked back to turn off the hose, I caught rapid movement across the sidewalk and then the mulch near the faucet. I stopped and caught another quick movement up the wall. Hidden on the wall and covered by the phlox (Phlox paniculata) was an eastern prairie lizard.

When I went online, I found the eastern prairie lizard (Sceloporus consobrinus), also known as a fence lizard, is a species of lizard in the family Phrynosomatidae. Distribution in the US extends from far western Nevada east to New York and from southern South Dakota in the north into Mexico to the south. Prairie lizards can be distinguished by the combination of highly keeled, pointed, and overlapping scales; no “horns” at the back of the head; and a tail longer than the body. Coloration and pattern can be highly variable, even within local populations. The top (dorsal) coloration can be gray, brown, or a mixture of gray, brown, and white, and chevron-shaped lines can be present or absent and may have a distinct gray stripe along the midline of the dorsal body surface. Lighter stripes may be well to poorly defined on lateral body surfaces extending from the neck to the first one-third of the tail. Adult males have distinct green-blue patches bordered by black on each side of the under (ventral) body surface. In larger males, the underside of the jaw may be black with green-blue patches on either side of the throat. Prairie lizards reach just over 3 inches (7.5 cm) in snout-vent length (plus tail) while hatchlings are about three-fourths of an inch (2 cm) in snout-vent length.

Prairie lizards can be active during any month of the year if temperatures are high enough but are most active during March to October and are found in almost every terrestrial habitat. The color and pattern variations (ectomorphs) are often associated with the microhabitats where they live. During the breeding season (late spring to early summer), males are territorial and aggressively interact with other males. Females deposit clutches of 6 to14 eggs from early May through July and may deposit more than one clutch per season. Eggs are deposited in shallow burrows in the ground, under surface objects, and possibly in the walls of mammal burrows. There is no parental care. Eggs hatch from late July through September. Lifespan under natural conditions is unknown but individuals (likely) can live up to four years. These lizards are “ambush foragers” and eat a variety of insects. They rely on relatively high body temperatures (about 95F/35C) for activity and are often observed basking in direct sunlight. Their primary defensive behavior includes a combination of camouflage (crypsis) and short, rapid retreats to crevices, shrubs, or other safe harbors once they have been detected.

Thoughts: The Prairie lizard can be observed by remaining still for 5 to10 minutes in their habitat and watching for movement. I watched for about 1 minute trying for a better photo and it never moved. Not moving is not always a good strategy. Warm-blooded predators (dogs and bears) see your body heat and the sound of breathing can be picked up by ears. Animals with a strong sense of smell (like dogs) find you by the air. Humans instead make loud noises and band together in packs. It helps that we are at the top of the food chain. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Waved Sphinx

August 24, 2026

Before Melissa retired, our breakfast nook table was her computer workstation in one half and the other served as a dedicated workstation for her succulents. The computer is now gone, and the succulents took over the whole. The table sits in front of a large bay window that allows Melissa to watch the birds come to feeders placed just outside. While we have always had numbers of house sparrows (Passer domesticus) these have recently been joined by a flock of young house finches (Haemorhous mexicanus). Over the last two weeks Melissa has noticed an increase in ruby-throated hummingbirds (Archilochus colubris) coming to the hanging basket of button sage (Lantana involucrate) that sits among the feeders. I find this species interesting as the male is brown with a ruby throat and white belly, while the female is green with a white belly. With the increase in birds, Melissa cleared a spot for me to sit and read the morning paper and do my crossword. I have also noticed several bumble bees (genus Bombus) and large moths (order Lepidoptera) on the same flower. While I failed to document these fast birds, I did find a waved sphinx inside our porch.

When I went online, I found the waved sphinx (Ceratomia undulosa) is a common large moth in the family Sphingidae. The species was first described by Francis Walker in 1856 and can be recognized by its mottled gray-brown wings and distinct wavy lines, with a small centered white spot on each forewing. The moth has a 3 to 4.25-inch (7.6 to 10.8 cm) wingspan. Despite its large size, its camouflage allows them to rest safely against tree bark. It is native in the US and southern Canada, east of the Rocky Mountains. Adults are strictly nocturnal, hiding with the dawn. The Sphingidae family of moths are informally known as hawk moths because of their fast, strong, and hovering flight style, which resembles how a hawk flies. They have long, narrow wings and streamlined bodies built for rapid movement. The most common predator is the Guiana Striped Scorpion (Centruroides guianensis) which feasts on the moth’s egg clusters. As the two species seem to arrive at the same time, the scorpions show up as the moth lays eggs, there was a wrong conclusion the moths give birth to the scorpions (i.e., the name Scorpion Moth). Many Sphingidae caterpillars are known as hornworms from a distinct, horn-like spine located on their last abdominal segment.

I was concerned when I learned the waved sphinx was a horn worm. The five-spotted hawkmoth (Manduca quinquemaculata) caterpillar is a major pest often referred to as the tomato hornworm and uses tomatoes as the host plants. The food of the waved sphinx larvae are trees, and include ash (Fraxinus), privet (Ligustrum), oak (Quercus), hawthorn (Crataegus) and fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus). The caterpillars (larvae) go through five distinct growth stages (instars) over 3 to 4 weeks, shedding their skin each time. When ready, the larvae crawl from the plant and burrow a few inches/centimeters into the soil to pupate. In colder regions, the pupae overwinter underground in this chrysalis stage until spring. In warm months, this stage lasts 1 to 3 weeks. The adult moths emerge from the soil in spring or summer and live for 1 to 3 weeks before they reproduce and start the cycle again. Adults feed on flower nectar using a long mouth tube (proboscis).

Thoughts: When I tried to get close for a photo of the waved sphinx moth, I realized it was dead. Even if it had been alive, it posed no threat to my garden. I remember seeing the large green tomato hornworms in our garden when I was a child. While I did not understand them as a pest, I was awed by their size. The same was true with the adult sphinx. It is common for humans to fear large creatures before we determine whether they are a threat. We can treat other humans the same way. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Metricus

August 22, 2026

We used to use a pest control company to spray our Arkansas house several times a year. We quit spraying inside when Melissa began growing succulents to protect her many plants. I would watch the technicians as they put granules in the yard, sprayed around the base of the house, and swept the eaves for wasp (Suborder: Apocrita) nests. I realized the task was straight forward and being retired I could spare the periodic 30 minutes, so I took over the role. We still get canvassers saying, “We happen to be in the neighborhood . . . “, but I tell them I do it myself. When they ask what steps I use, I tell them same as they do, and their response is they have better chemicals. Frankly, I am wary of commercial chemicals, and they leave. I occasionally find a mud dauber (Subfamily: Sceliphrinae) nest that I spray and then knock off the house. While I have not seen a paper nest in a while, I did see a metricus paper wasp on my tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) plants last week.

When I went online, I found metricus paper wasp (Polistes metricus) is a wasp native to North America. In the US it ranges throughout the southern Midwest, the South, and as far northeast as New York, but has recently been spotted in southwest Ontario. A single female has also been reported from Dryden, Maine. The metricus has a dark rusty (ferruginous) color with black markings on its thorax and a mostly black abdomen. The lower portion of the legs (tarsi) are yellow, and the upper leg (tibia) is black. A black spot (separate from the antennae) contains three simple eyes (ocelli). Females have six abdominal segments, while males bear seven. Swelled parts of the abdomen of this species are a key defining element. Like other Polistes (genus), metricus has a high level of socialization (eusociality), including cooperative brood care, overlapping generations of adults within a colony, and a division of labor into reproductive and non-reproductive groups. Like other hymenopterans (Order), sex is determined by if the egg is fertilized (haplodiploid genetics). The preferred prey to feed young is soft-bodied, and especially caterpillars. The International Union for Conservation of Nature has not evaluated this species’ conservation status.

Nests of the metricus paper wasp can be found attached to almost anything, the sides of buildings, trees, and shrubbery. Nests have been observed to be shared between two species of Polistes. The different species of wasp were seen to coexist without conflict. The evolutionary significance of joint nesting is unclear, but hypotheses include it might represent the beginning stages of interspecific sharing to the benefit of each (mutualism) or exploitation. Nest reuse has been observed in the species. It is common for a foundress to use the nest multiple times within a reproductive season, but it is unlikely for the foundresses to return to a nest in a subsequent season. Another distinction is metricus foragers take off from their nests in different directions depending on how long their trip will be. They exit the nest flying horizontally for short flights but exit the nest flying straight up to a high altitude before pursuing their direction for long flights.

Thoughts: One of my memories as a child was my brother and I trying to knock down the metricus paper wasp nests on our porch. The original front porch now faced a dirt street, and a side door faced a paved street, now making it the main entrance. That meant the large wraparound porch was rarely used. This seemed to be the perfect location for the paper nests. We were too afraid to approach the nests directly, so we would toss a broom at them until they fell to the ground. I can never remember being bothered by the wasps unless we were trying to knock down the nests. When I saw the metricus on my tomato it was not bothering me, so I left it alone as. That would have been a better reaction as a child as well. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Carnivorous

August 05, 2026

My NYT feed The Morning included a blurb about the vindication of Charles Darwin’s hypothesis about carnivorous plants. Darwin called Venus flytraps (Dionaea muscipula) “one of the most wonderful plants in the world” and once remarked that he cared more about sundews, plants that sport sticky, flypaper-like traps, “than the origin of all the species in the world.” Darwin published a treatise on carnivorous plants in 1875 that featured several species he thought could be flesh-eating flora, including the hardy alpine plants (genus Saxifraga) that had sticky hairs. Darwin tempted two European Saxifraga species with insects during feeding experiments, but he was unable to prove they were carnivorous. Scientists have now vindicated Darwin’s hypothesis. A team of researchers recently served tiny flies to another Saxifraga species native to China. Their findings were published on Tuesday in the journal Nature Communications revealing the Saxifraga candelabrum does digest and absorb sustenance from trapped prey, expanding evidence of a new family of carnivorous plants.

When I went online, I found Saxifraga candelabrum is a species of flowering plant in the family Saxifragaceae native to northwestern Sichuan and northern Yunnan, China. Candelabrum is a perennial herb reaching 6 to 15 inches (15 to 38 cm) in height. The species grows in a variety of habitats, including forests, forest edges, high meadows, and rocky crevices at elevations from 6,600 to 13,800 feet (2,000 to 4,200 m). The 2026 study found that it is carnivorous, trapping insects in the glandular hairs of its leaves and digesting them. The plant’s flowers attract tiny flying insects in the dipterid suborder Nematocera (aka gnats) and traps them with their sticky glandular hairs. Larger flies (order Diptera) are too big to be captured and instead serve as flower pollinators. The Saxifraga candelabrum can attract, trap, digest, and absorb nitrogen from insects, supporting a prediction made by Charles Darwin more than 150 years ago.

Many plants exhibit carnivorous traits like prey capture, but to be formally classified as carnivorous they must show adaptations for attracting, catching, digesting, and absorbing nutrients from prey. Hang Sun and colleagues studied Saxifraga candelabrum and field observations and surveys of existing plant samples showed that insect prey was present on the glandular hairs of 43 out of 45 surveyed specimens. Mature plants displayed an average of 71 trapped insects, predominantly on these hairs. The authors used fluorescence tagging to identify a digestive enzyme (phosphatase activity) found in carnivorous plants, suggesting that the plant can potentially digest prey. Small flies (genus Drosophila) labeled with a stable form of nitrogen were fed to the plant to analyze whether it could absorb the prey’s nutrient. The authors observed a notable rise in labeled nitrogen levels among candelabrum and control plants from another carnivorous species, and no rise in the non-carnivorous controls. Genetic analysis also found genomic similarities with other independently evolved carnivorous plants. These findings provide strong evidence to support Darwin’s hypothesis.

THOUGHTS: Carnivorous plants have independently evolved in 14 families of flowering plants and are defined by the trapping and digesting of prey for nourishment. Being a meat eater allows a plant to live in depleted soil and harsh habitats. Humans have an even greater advantage as they can eat both meat and plants (omnivorous). This flexible diet helps us survive when one food source is scarce or when the environment changes. However, we cannot digest tough plants as herbivores do and are less skilled at catching fast or dangerous prey as carnivores. Humans have instead learned to adapt to their environment more than being shaped by it. Now we need to ensure our adaptation does not destroy the environment. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Electroculture

July 31, 2026

This week I tore out the last of the plants in my raised beds. The first to go were the remaining onions (Allium cepa) I had left in the ground. I found it was a mistake to leave the mature bulbs in the ground as the sun and high temperatures (95F+/35C+) burned the tops of the bulbs that stuck out of the soil (another learning experience). It became clear the cabbages (Brassica oleracea) were done forming into heads and were just soaking up water. I joked with Melissa that I had raised “tiny cabbages”, my cutesy name for brussels sprouts (also Brassica oleracea). They came out, and the small heads are waiting in the vegetable bin for me to do something with. The volunteer cantaloupe (Cucumis melo) only produced two viable fruits and there were no new flowers, so out it came. The last to go were the two cucumber plants. They had produced well, including 14 pints of canned dill pickles and numerous pounds to donation. Now I need to prepare the beds and get ready for my fall planting. Thinking about what goes where always puts me on alert, so my interest was perked when I came across a Facebook reel touting the virtues of Electroculture Gardening.

When I went online, I found electroculture gardening is an alternative practice involving placing copper wires, antennae, or magnetic coils into the soil to capture atmospheric and geomagnetic energy. Proponents of the technique claim it accelerates growth, increases crop yields, and repels pests. Mainstream science views these claims as lacking “robust” empirical proof. The copper antennas are simple enough to make and are readily available for purchase. They consist of copper wire wrapped tightly around an 11 inch (37.5cm) wooden or bamboo stake that is then pushed about 3 inches (7.5 cm) into the soil. In the Northern Hemisphere you twist the wire in a clockwise spiral to supposedly match local magnetic forces. You can also place open loops of copper wire (Lakhovsky-style coils) around the bases of individual plants. This coil is a simple open-ended loop of wire with overlapping ends that do not touch, invented by Georges Lakhovsky, to act as a passive resonant circuit. Controlled tests and academic agricultural reviews find no verified mechanisms or consistent data showing that passive copper wire acts as an effective power antenna or nutrient booster for soil, and suggest standard alternatives (organic compost, maintaining proper hydration, and rotating crops) work as well or better to improve harvest.

I have tried several trendy methods to grow or increase the produce in my yard. This includes raised beds using hügelkultur (built over logs), cloth grow bags, the three sisters (corn/ Zea mays, beans/ Phaseolus vulgaris, and squash/ genus Cucurbita) grown in mounds, 5-gallon (19 L) buckets, and containers. I even have gone so far as to plant directly in the ground (ha ha). All these methods have been successful at times, and at other times not. I am constantly trying to increase yields to make our household more sustainable and less dependent on outside resources. I have yet to be consistent.

THOUGHTS: Electroculture gardening seems to be another attempt to improve crop yield. Some have made a stark claim that the world only has a limited number of harvests left (100, 60, or even 30). While the claims are overblown, soil erosion rates from across the world span five orders of magnitude. Around 16% of the world’s soils are eroding quickly and have an estimated lifespan of less than 100 years. Half of the soils are eroding slower with a lifespan greater than 1000 years while one-third have over 5000 years. As with my garden, we need to protect our soils with agricultural practices like cover cropping, minimal to no tillage, and contour cultivation. While it is feasible for me to test electroculture, extending the world’s soil will require a proven and cooperated effort across every country. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Triceratops Beetle

July 27, 2026

When I go out the back door it is always a mad scramble for the kids to race out into the yard. Sometimes I will stop at the door and hold up my hand (command to sit). Loki is usually reluctant but will slowly obey my command. Zena often instead crouches down a bit and whines in protest but will then sit. I did not require them to sit as I walked out to water the back garden today. When I opened the door there was the immediate scramble as each tear through the door, through the sun porch, and out into the yard, hoping to catch a slow gray squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis) on the bird feeders. As I walked out after them, I noticed they had both run over a large black bug lying on its back. It appeared to be in distress as its legs were flailing in an apparent attempt to right itself. As I was watching the bug the kids noticed me looking and came back to investigate. First Zena and then Loki came in through the door, and I had to shoo them away. I was reluctant to pick the bug up as I did not know what it was, so I swept it into a dustpan and turned it back onto its feet. After turning the bug over I recognized it as a triceratops beetle.

When I went online, I found the triceratops beetle (Phileurus truncatus) is a species of beetle of the family Scarabaeidae (scarab beetles). The beetle ranges across much of southern North America, up to the central south. It is known for its three horns present on both sexes. The name is a reference to the triceratops dinosaur (Ceratops horridus) that lived in the Late Cretaceous period (68 to 66 million years ago) on the island continent of Laramidia, now forming western North America. Adult beetles range from 1.25 to 1.5 inches (32 to 38 mm). Males have thicker, more blunt horns that curve more aggressively towards its body, while females have thinner, straighter, pointier horns. The horns have a divot running down the center of their prothorax dividing both sides, with a very small bump just before the divot. When they beetles are disturbed that produce sound (stridulations) by rapidly rubbing their hardened forewings against their abdomen.

The triceratops beetle is considered good for your yard and garden. As grubs, these beetles live inside rotting tree trunks (oak preferred) and consume the wood. After pupating into adults, they consume the grubs of other beetles. Hopefully this one has been feasting on the squash bugs that invaded earlier. I set the dustpan down and took a picture of the beetle. I had planned to safely release the triceratops back into the garden (and out of my house), but when I turned back to look, it was nowhere to be found. Our porch stores my bird and garden supplies, along with several hundred of Melissa’s succulents, and it apparently flew off and hid somewhere in the room. We keep the outside door open most of the time for circulation and we do have the occasional house sparrow (Passer domesticus) or paper wasp (Polistes dominula) that attempt to make this area their home. The triceratops might have done the same thing.

THOUGHTS: Having a triceratops beetle on our sun porch is not a bad thing, but I hope she (smaller horns) finds her way back outside. To my knowledge there are no beetle grubs living on the concrete floor. The ancient Egyptians revered another scarab beetle (Scarabaeus sacer) as a powerful symbol of rebirth, the morning sun, and creation. They connected the dung beetle’s habit of rolling a ball of dung across the sand to the sun moving across the sky. When young beetles hatched from the buried dung, the Egyptians saw it as a sign of life coming from nothing. When I visited the great pyramid at Giza there were several people selling terra cotta beetles with a bright blue glaze (faience). One gave a free beetle to each of the three ladies I was traveling with. After they walked off, he turned to me and said, “As you will.” They were gone and “free” beetles cost me US$1 (EGP51.37 Pounds) each. Another cultural lesson learned. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Flea Beetle

July 17, 2026

Several days ago, I mentioned my battle with insects in our garden and flower beds. I have overcome the squash bugs (Anasa tristis) this year, but the vines rotted before I got much fruit. I only found a few bugs on my squash, but I finally located squash vine borer moths (Melittia cucurbitae) on my sunflowers. The vine borers lay their eggs on the underside of leaves and when the larva hatches, they bore into the vines and can cause them to rot. That seems to be the clear case for my squash (genus, Cucurbita), but it did not account for the pitting I saw on the red amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) leaves in the bed. I have been checking the plants daily for any moths and the underside of the leaves for eggs, capturing the moths (if possible) and scrapping the eggs off the leaves. If the leaves have already been discolored, I am cutting them from the plant. My close early morning inspections proved fruitful today as I spied another beetle on one of my sunflower leaves. When I checked it was identified as a pigweed flea beetle.

When I went online, I found the pigweed flea beetle (Disonycha glabrata) is a species of striped flea beetle in the family Chrysomelidae. This small, striped leaf beetle is known for skeletonizing plants in the Amaranth family (like it did mine). Plants in the amaranth family may be called pigweeds because they were/are used to feed pigs. The flea beetle is active in gardens and fields during the summer, chewing tiny round holes and laying eggs on the leaves. The larvae spend their first 13.5 days in the soil before crawling out as adults. The Pigweed Flea Beetle has a red and black head. The red, shield-like part on an insect’s body (pronotum) has a black dot in the center, or may have three black dots, depending on the individual. The black wing coverings (elytra) have four yellow lines on them, with the two on the left connecting at the bottom as do the two on the right. Antennae are black, and legs are red and black. Other members of the same genus have a similar appearance, but the width, color, and number of the lines on the elytra differ between them.

The pigweed flea beetle is active from late spring through autumn and is not considered a significant pest in a backyard garden. That is unless you are trying to grow red amaranths. It is best to use a multi-step approach to control and manage infestation. Start by placing fine Floating Row Covers over young plants immediately after planting to block access. Once plants are established, spray them with organic Spinosad or Neem Oil. These sprays must be applied in the early morning or evening and directly contact the beetles to be effective. While Neem Oil is considered organic, spraying in the evening eliminates possible contact with the pollinators who would also be harmed by the oils. Flea beetles are highly attracted to plants like radishes or hemp and planting these near your valuable crops creates sacrificial targets that can be easily treated or vacuumed. Flea beetles locate food by smell and interplanting strongly scented herbs like mint (Family, Lamiaceae), basil (Ocimum basilicum), or catnip (Nepeta cataria) can confuse the pests. This would also make our neighborhood cats happy. Tilling the soil in the fall and removing garden debris helps destroy overwintering adults and larvae hidden in the topsoil.

THOUGHTS: Finding the pigweed flea beetle solved another riddle from my garden. Last year it was the pock marked squash leaves (squash beetle), and this year it was the rotted vines (squash vine borer) and skeletonized amaranth (flea beetle). I have found knowing the cause does not resolve the problem. You also need to take appropriate (and specific) action. This is where listening to science and experts can be invaluable. Otherwise, you risk wasting time and money, and sometimes your integrity. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Squash Vine Borer

July 14, 2026

For the last three years I have waged a battle with squash bugs (Anasa tristis). While I found a few individuals on my squash (genus, Cucurbita) this year, they have not been abundant and when I do see one I remove and dispatch it. Even so, every one of my squash plants died early. The cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are thriving, but they were planted late and after the squash were gone. Squash bugs feed by piercing the leaves and stems to suck out plant sap, causing foliage to develop speckled yellow spots before turning brown and dying. I was still finding my leaves riddled with holes, but what led to the squash demise was the vine above the roots disintegrated. This seemed a different culprit than what I faced in the past. I attributed this to the cool and wet weather we had this spring leading to vine rot. I have similar leaf problems in the sunflower bed to the north and every one of the red amaranths (Amaranthus cruentus) are riddled with bite holes. While watering yesterday I noticed what looked like small beetles on the leaves of several of the sunflowers (Helianthus annuus). When I tried to remove them, they “jumped” to the other side of the leaf. Then one of them flew off. I was looking at a squash vine borer infestation.

When I went online, I found squash bugs and squash vine borers (the “moth” pest) are two distinct cucurbit (cucumbers, squash, melons, and pumpkins) pests. Squash bugs are “true bugs” (flat, dark gray/brown, resembling stink bugs) that suck plant sap while squash vine borers are daytime-flying moths whose caterpillars burrow into stems and kill vines from the inside. The squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae) is a daytime (diurnal) species of clear wing (sesiid) moth often mistaken for a bee or wasp because of its movements and the bright orange hind leg scales. Females typically lay their eggs at the base of leaf stalks, and the caterpillars develop and feed inside the stalk, eventually killing the leaf. They soon migrate to the main stem, and with enough feeding damage to the stem, the entire plant may die. The moth is considered a pest as it attacks cultivated varieties of genus Cucurbita (squash, zucchini, pumpkin, and acorn squash). The squash vine borer is native to North America, with some reports as far south as Brazil and Argentina. It lives in most temperate North American states, except the Pacific coast. Southern states have two broods a year (lucky for us).

Pesticides are ineffective to control squash vine borers once the larva gets inside the plant, and since the north bed is meant for pollinators, cannot be used as they would kill what I am trying to feed. I have been trying to catch and dispatch anything I see, but they are fast. An organic control is to inject BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) bacteria into the base of the stem using a syringe to kill the larvae. The injection should be done after the first flowers start to show and again after a few weeks. This method is quite manual and is only useful to small-scale or home gardeners (and too much work for me). You can wrap the lower stem with nylon stockings or aluminum foil to prevent egg laying, which generally occurs within a couple of inches from the point where the stem emerges from the soil. Some gardeners place a yellow bowl filled with water and a drop of liquid dish soap to attract and drown the adult pest. This method provides feedback on the level of infestation and along with daily checking the plants for eggs is popular with organic gardeners. Now I need a yellow bowl.

THOUGHTS: I try and be conscientious about organic farming on my vegetables, but the squash vine borer is testing my limits. Perhaps it is a good thing that most pesticides are ineffective on the insects. I realize I am feeding some insects even as I try to eliminate others. The same is true as I grow weeds (wildflowers) even as I pull others from my beds. Humans tend to make similar decisions with the people they cooperate with. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.

Mason

June 21, 2026

I have mentioned our two flower beds dedicated to wildflowers. The one on the north side of the house has sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) and cone flowers (Family, Asteraceae), while the east bed has a self-propagating mix of wildflowers (the package literally said, “wildflower mix”). These beds attract a variety of bees (Clade, Anthophila) and butterflies (Family, lepidopteran). Attached to one of my browsers was an ad asking for my support for local pollinators. The ad described how honeybees do little of the pollination for gardens and orchards. Honeybees (genus, Apis) produce honey, which along with their brightly colored yellow and black bodies make them attractive. They also form colonies (hives) that are often located around orchards or even transported as rentals for pollination. What I did not know until I opened this ad was that 90% of pollination is performed by a solitary bee known collectively as mason bees.

When I went online, I found a mason bee refers to bees in the genus Osmia (Family, Megachilidae) who derive their name from the habit of using mud or other “masonry” products in constructing their nests. These nests are made in naturally occurring gaps such as cracks in stones or other small dark cavities. Some species preferentially use hollow stems or holes in wood made by wood-boring insects. Over 300 species are found across the Northern Hemisphere, but most occur in temperate habitats of Europe and Asia (Palearctic) and North America (Nearctic) and are active from spring through late summer. Osmia species are frequently metallic green or blue, although many are blackish and at least one is rust-red. Most have black ventral masses of black hairs on their hind legs (scopae) which are difficult to notice unless laden with pollen. Two species of the genus, the orchard mason bee (Osmia lignaria) and the blueberry bee (Osmia ribifloris), are native to the Americas, although the orchard mason have been moved from their native ranges for commercial purposes.

If you want to make your garden an inviting and safe space for the mason and other solitary bees, avoid cute, shallow decorative models. Instead look for removable paper or cardboard tubes or wood laminate trays. If bees nest in drilled in solid blocks, the house becomes a trap for diseases and mites after a single season. The holes should be exactly 5/16-inch (8 mm) in diameter and at least 6 inches (15 cm) deep. If the holes are too wide, bees cannot build secure mud partitions. If the hole is too shallow, the female bees may only produce male eggs. Solitary bees are sensitive to chemicals, so choose natural, untreated, or wood like cedar or pine. Choose a sloped or overhanging roof (metal) to prevent rain from rotting the tubes, and a wire mesh on the front to deter woodpeckers. The house should face southeast or east to receive early morning sun to warm the bees, encouraging them to start pollinating. The house should be attached to a solid surface about 5 feet (1.5 m) above the ground. I ordered one and got another for my grandchildren to enjoy, as well as the bees.

THOUGHTS: The mason bee house in the ad told of a 70-year-old man retiring after 50 years and this would be his last bee houses. The ad pointed out the advantages of purchasing this house and its superiority over the commercial houses online or in stores. It also said there were only 200 houses left. I generally look elsewhere online to see if the “steals” offered by such sites are real and how they compare with other prices. I had a red flag at “200 remaining” at a cost of “only US$69”. My search pulled up a reference to possible scams. When I looked, my ad fit the criteria. The price was twice as much as other houses and did not meet the criteria listed among the “10 best”. There are times we see a great idea that fits a criterion and we buy impulsively. Even if this is the best deal, it should be checked. Otherwise, we set ourselves up to be scammed. That is true regardless of age. Act for all. Change will come and it starts with you.