Electroculture

July 31, 2026

This week I tore out the last of the plants in my raised beds.  The first to go were the remaining onions (Allium cepa) I had left in the ground.  I found it was a mistake to leave the mature bulbs in the ground as the sun and high temperatures (95F+/35C+) burned the tops of the bulbs that stuck out of the soil (another learning experience).  It became clear the cabbages (Brassica oleracea) were done forming into heads and were just soaking up water.  I joked with Melissa that I had raised “tiny cabbages”, my cutesy name for brussels sprouts (also Brassica oleracea).  They came out, and the small heads are waiting in the vegetable bin for me to do something with.  The volunteer cantaloupe (Cucumis melo) only produced two viable fruits and there were no new flowers, so out it came.  The last to go were the two cucumber plants.  They had produced well, including 14 pints of canned dill pickles and numerous pounds to donation.  Now I need to prepare the beds and get ready for my fall planting.  Thinking about what goes where always puts me on alert, so my interest was perked when I came across a Facebook reel touting the virtues of Electroculture Gardening.  

When I went online, I found electroculture gardening is an alternative practice involving placing copper wires, antennae, or magnetic coils into the soil to capture atmospheric and geomagnetic energy.  Proponents of the technique claim it accelerates growth, increases crop yields, and repels pests.  Mainstream science views these claims as lacking “robust” empirical proof.  The copper antennas are simple enough to make and are readily available for purchase.  They consist of copper wire wrapped tightly around an 11 inch (37.5cm) wooden or bamboo stake that is then pushed about 3 inches (7.5 cm) into the soil.  In the Northern Hemisphere you twist the wire in a clockwise spiral to supposedly match local magnetic forces.  You can also place open loops of copper wire (Lakhovsky-style coils) around the bases of individual plants.  This coil is a simple open-ended loop of wire with overlapping ends that do not touch, invented by Georges Lakhovsky, to act as a passive resonant circuit.  Controlled tests and academic agricultural reviews find no verified mechanisms or consistent data showing that passive copper wire acts as an effective power antenna or nutrient booster for soil, and suggest standard alternatives (organic compost, maintaining proper hydration, and rotating crops) work as well or better to improve harvest. 

I have tried several trendy methods to grow or increase the produce in my yard.  This includes raised beds using hügelkultur (built over logs), cloth grow bags, the three sisters (corn/ Zea mays, beans/ Phaseolus vulgaris, and squash/ genus Cucurbita) grown in mounds, 5-gallon (19 L) buckets, and containers.  I even have gone so far as to plant directly in the ground (ha ha).  All these methods have been successful at times, and at other times not.  I am constantly trying to increase yields to make our household more sustainable and less dependent on outside resources.  I have yet to be consistent.  

THOUGHTS: Electroculture gardening seems to be another attempt to improve crop yield.  Some have made a stark claim that the world only has a limited number of harvests left (100, 60, or even 30).  While the claims are overblown, soil erosion rates from across the world span five orders of magnitude.  Around 16% of the world’s soils are eroding quickly and have an estimated lifespan of less than 100 years.  Half of the soils are eroding slower with a lifespan greater than 1000 years while one-third have over 5000 years.  As with my garden, we need to protect our soils with agricultural practices like cover cropping, minimal to no tillage, and contour cultivation.  While it is feasible for me to test electroculture, extending the world’s soil will require a proven and cooperated effort across every country.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Triceratops Beetle

July 27, 2026

When I go out the back door it is always a mad scramble for the kids to race out into the yard.  Sometimes I will stop at the door and hold up my hand (command to sit).  Loki is usually reluctant but will slowly obey my command.  Zena often instead crouches down a bit and whines in protest but will then sit.  I did not require them to sit as I walked out to water the back garden today.  When I opened the door there was the immediate scramble as each tear through the door, through the sun porch, and out into the yard, hoping to catch a slow gray squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis) on the bird feeders.  As I walked out after them, I noticed they had both run over a large black bug lying on its back.  It appeared to be in distress as its legs were flailing in an apparent attempt to right itself.  As I was watching the bug the kids noticed me looking and came back to investigate.  First Zena and then Loki came in through the door, and I had to shoo them away.  I was reluctant to pick the bug up as I did not know what it was, so I swept it into a dustpan and turned it back onto its feet.  After turning the bug over I recognized it as a triceratops beetle.

When I went online, I found the triceratops beetle (Phileurus truncatus) is a species of beetle of the family Scarabaeidae (scarab beetles).  The beetle ranges across much of southern North America, up to the central south.  It is known for its three horns present on both sexes.  The name is a reference to the triceratops dinosaur (Ceratops horridus) that lived in the Late Cretaceous period (68 to 66 million years ago) on the island continent of Laramidia, now forming western North America.  Adult beetles range from 1.25 to 1.5 inches (32 to 38 mm).  Males have thicker, more blunt horns that curve more aggressively towards its body, while females have thinner, straighter, pointier horns.  The horns have a divot running down the center of their prothorax dividing both sides, with a very small bump just before the divot.  When they beetles are disturbed that produce sound (stridulations) by rapidly rubbing their hardened forewings against their abdomen.

The triceratops beetle is considered good for your yard and garden.  As grubs, these beetles live inside rotting tree trunks (oak preferred) and consume the wood.  After pupating into adults, they consume the grubs of other beetles.  Hopefully this one has been feasting on the squash bugs that invaded earlier.  I set the dustpan down and took a picture of the beetle.  I had planned to safely release the triceratops back into the garden (and out of my house), but when I turned back to look, it was nowhere to be found.  Our porch stores my bird and garden supplies, along with several hundred of Melissa’s succulents, and it apparently flew off and hid somewhere in the room.  We keep the outside door open most of the time for circulation and we do have the occasional house sparrow (Passer domesticus) or paper wasp (Polistes dominula) that attempt to make this area their home.  The triceratops might have done the same thing.   

THOUGHTS: Having a triceratops beetle on our sun porch is not a bad thing, but I hope she (smaller horns) finds her way back outside.  To my knowledge there are no beetle grubs living on the concrete floor.  The ancient Egyptians revered another scarab beetle (Scarabaeus sacer) as a powerful symbol of rebirth, the morning sun, and creation.  They connected the dung beetle’s habit of rolling a ball of dung across the sand to the sun moving across the sky.  When young beetles hatched from the buried dung, the Egyptians saw it as a sign of life coming from nothing.  When I visited the great pyramid at Giza there were several people selling terra cotta beetles with a bright blue glaze (faience).  One gave a free beetle to each of the three ladies I was traveling with.  After they walked off, he turned to me and said, “As you will.”  They were gone and “free” beetles cost me US$1 (EGP51.37 Pounds) each.  Another cultural lesson learned.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Flea Beetle

July 17, 2026

Several days ago, I mentioned my battle with insects in our garden and flower beds.  I have overcome the squash bugs (Anasa tristis) this year, but the vines rotted before I got much fruit.  I only found a few bugs on my squash, but I finally located squash vine borer moths (Melittia cucurbitae) on my sunflowers.  The vine borers lay their eggs on the underside of leaves and when the larva hatches, they bore into the vines and can cause them to rot.  That seems to be the clear case for my squash (genus, Cucurbita), but it did not account for the pitting I saw on the red amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) leaves in the bed.  I have been checking the plants daily for any moths and the underside of the leaves for eggs, capturing the moths (if possible) and scrapping the eggs off the leaves.  If the leaves have already been discolored, I am cutting them from the plant.  My close early morning inspections proved fruitful today as I spied another beetle on one of my sunflower leaves.  When I checked it was identified as a pigweed flea beetle.

When I went online, I found the pigweed flea beetle (Disonycha glabrata) is a species of striped flea beetle in the family Chrysomelidae.  This small, striped leaf beetle is known for skeletonizing plants in the Amaranth family (like it did mine).   Plants in the amaranth family may be called pigweeds because they were/are used to feed pigs.  The flea beetle is active in gardens and fields during the summer, chewing tiny round holes and laying eggs on the leaves.  The larvae spend their first 13.5 days in the soil before crawling out as adults.  The Pigweed Flea Beetle has a red and black head.  The red, shield-like part on an insect’s body (pronotum) has a black dot in the center, or may have three black dots, depending on the individual.  The black wing coverings (elytra) have four yellow lines on them, with the two on the left connecting at the bottom as do the two on the right.  Antennae are black, and legs are red and black.  Other members of the same genus have a similar appearance, but the width, color, and number of the lines on the elytra differ between them.

The pigweed flea beetle is active from late spring through autumn and is not considered a significant pest in a backyard garden.  That is unless you are trying to grow red amaranths.  It is best to use a multi-step approach to control and manage infestation.  Start by placing fine Floating Row Covers over young plants immediately after planting to block access.  Once plants are established, spray them with organic Spinosad or Neem Oil.  These sprays must be applied in the early morning or evening and directly contact the beetles to be effective.  While Neem Oil is considered organic, spraying in the evening eliminates possible contact with the pollinators who would also be harmed by the oils.  Flea beetles are highly attracted to plants like radishes or hemp and planting these near your valuable crops creates sacrificial targets that can be easily treated or vacuumed.  Flea beetles locate food by smell and interplanting strongly scented herbs like mint (Family, Lamiaceae), basil (Ocimum basilicum), or catnip (Nepeta cataria) can confuse the pests.  This would also make our neighborhood cats happy.  Tilling the soil in the fall and removing garden debris helps destroy overwintering adults and larvae hidden in the topsoil.

THOUGHTS: Finding the pigweed flea beetle solved another riddle from my garden.  Last year it was the pock marked squash leaves (squash beetle), and this year it was the rotted vines (squash vine borer) and skeletonized amaranth (flea beetle).  I have found knowing the cause does not resolve the problem.  You also need to take appropriate (and specific) action.  This is where listening to science and experts can be invaluable.  Otherwise, you risk wasting time and money, and sometimes your integrity.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Squash Vine Borer

July 14, 2026

For the last three years I have waged a battle with squash bugs (Anasa tristis).  While I found a few individuals on my squash (genus, Cucurbita) this year, they have not been abundant and when I do see one I remove and dispatch it.  Even so, every one of my squash plants died early.  The cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are thriving, but they were planted late and after the squash were gone.  Squash bugs feed by piercing the leaves and stems to suck out plant sap, causing foliage to develop speckled yellow spots before turning brown and dying.  I was still finding my leaves riddled with holes, but what led to the squash demise was the vine above the roots disintegrated.  This seemed a different culprit than what I faced in the past.  I attributed this to the cool and wet weather we had this spring leading to vine rot.  I have similar leaf problems in the sunflower bed to the north and every one of the red amaranths (Amaranthus cruentus) are riddled with bite holes.  While watering yesterday I noticed what looked like small beetles on the leaves of several of the sunflowers (Helianthus annuus).  When I tried to remove them, they “jumped” to the other side of the leaf.  Then one of them flew off.  I was looking at a squash vine borer infestation.

When I went online, I found squash bugs and squash vine borers (the “moth” pest) are two distinct cucurbit (cucumbers, squash, melons, and pumpkins) pests.  Squash bugs are “true bugs” (flat, dark gray/brown, resembling stink bugs) that suck plant sap while squash vine borers are daytime-flying moths whose caterpillars burrow into stems and kill vines from the inside.  The squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae) is a daytime (diurnal) species of clear wing (sesiid) moth often mistaken for a bee or wasp because of its movements and the bright orange hind leg scales.  Females typically lay their eggs at the base of leaf stalks, and the caterpillars develop and feed inside the stalk, eventually killing the leaf.  They soon migrate to the main stem, and with enough feeding damage to the stem, the entire plant may die.  The moth is considered a pest as it attacks cultivated varieties of genus Cucurbita (squash, zucchini, pumpkin, and acorn squash).  The squash vine borer is native to North America, with some reports as far south as Brazil and Argentina.  It lives in most temperate North American states, except the Pacific coast.  Southern states have two broods a year (lucky for us).

Pesticides are ineffective to control squash vine borers once the larva gets inside the plant, and since the north bed is meant for pollinators, cannot be used as they would kill what I am trying to feed.  I have been trying to catch and dispatch anything I see, but they are fast.  An organic control is to inject BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) bacteria into the base of the stem using a syringe to kill the larvae.  The injection should be done after the first flowers start to show and again after a few weeks.  This method is quite manual and is only useful to small-scale or home gardeners (and too much work for me).  You can wrap the lower stem with nylon stockings or aluminum foil to prevent egg laying, which generally occurs within a couple of inches from the point where the stem emerges from the soil.  Some gardeners place a yellow bowl filled with water and a drop of liquid dish soap to attract and drown the adult pest.  This method provides feedback on the level of infestation and along with daily checking the plants for eggs is popular with organic gardeners.  Now I need a yellow bowl.

THOUGHTS: I try and be conscientious about organic farming on my vegetables, but the squash vine borer is testing my limits.  Perhaps it is a good thing that most pesticides are ineffective on the insects.  I realize I am feeding some insects even as I try to eliminate others.  The same is true as I grow weeds (wildflowers) even as I pull others from my beds.  Humans tend to make similar decisions with the people they cooperate with.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Mason

June 21, 2026

I have mentioned our two flower beds dedicated to wildflowers.  The one on the north side of the house has sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) and cone flowers (Family, Asteraceae), while the east bed has a self-propagating mix of wildflowers (the package literally said, “wildflower mix”).  These beds attract a variety of bees (Clade, Anthophila) and butterflies (Family, lepidopteran).  Attached to one of my browsers was an ad asking for my support for local pollinators.  The ad described how honeybees do little of the pollination for gardens and orchards.  Honeybees (genus, Apis) produce honey, which along with their brightly colored yellow and black bodies make them attractive.  They also form colonies (hives) that are often located around orchards or even transported as rentals for pollination.  What I did not know until I opened this ad was that 90% of pollination is performed by a solitary bee known collectively as mason bees.

When I went online, I found a mason bee refers to bees in the genus Osmia (Family, Megachilidae) who derive their name from the habit of using mud or other “masonry” products in constructing their nests.  These nests are made in naturally occurring gaps such as cracks in stones or other small dark cavities.  Some species preferentially use hollow stems or holes in wood made by wood-boring insects.  Over 300 species are found across the Northern Hemisphere, but most occur in temperate habitats of Europe and Asia (Palearctic) and North America (Nearctic) and are active from spring through late summer.  Osmia species are frequently metallic green or blue, although many are blackish and at least one is rust-red.  Most have black ventral masses of black hairs on their hind legs (scopae) which are difficult to notice unless laden with pollen.  Two species of the genus, the orchard mason bee (Osmia lignaria) and the blueberry bee (Osmia ribifloris), are native to the Americas, although the orchard mason have been moved from their native ranges for commercial purposes.

If you want to make your garden an inviting and safe space for the mason and other solitary bees, avoid cute, shallow decorative models.  Instead look for removable paper or cardboard tubes or wood laminate trays.  If bees nest in drilled in solid blocks, the house becomes a trap for diseases and mites after a single season.  The holes should be exactly 5/16-inch (8 mm) in diameter and at least 6 inches (15 cm) deep.  If the holes are too wide, bees cannot build secure mud partitions.  If the hole is too shallow, the female bees may only produce male eggs.  Solitary bees are sensitive to chemicals, so choose natural, untreated, or wood like cedar or pine.  Choose a sloped or overhanging roof (metal) to prevent rain from rotting the tubes, and a wire mesh on the front to deter woodpeckers.  The house should face southeast or east to receive early morning sun to warm the bees, encouraging them to start pollinating.  The house should be attached to a solid surface about 5 feet (1.5 m) above the ground.  I ordered one and got another for my grandchildren to enjoy, as well as the bees.

THOUGHTS: The mason bee house in the ad told of a 70-year-old man retiring after 50 years and this would be his last bee houses.  The ad pointed out the advantages of purchasing this house and its superiority over the commercial houses online or in stores.  It also said there were only 200 houses left.  I generally look elsewhere online to see if the “steals” offered by such sites are real and how they compare with other prices.  I had a red flag at “200 remaining” at a cost of “only US$69”.  My search pulled up a reference to possible scams.  When I looked, my ad fit the criteria.  The price was twice as much as other houses and did not meet the criteria listed among the “10 best”.  There are times we see a great idea that fits a criterion and we buy impulsively.  Even if this is the best deal, it should be checked.  Otherwise, we set ourselves up to be scammed.  That is true regardless of age.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

False Parasol

June 15, 2026

I have grown corn (Zea mays) in the bed along the back of my house for the last three years.  The first year I grew corn as part of the “three sisters”, an indigenous method that allows the corn stalks to support the climbing pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) with winter squash (genus, Cucurbita) providing ground cover to keep down the weeds.  While the corn grew, the cobs had spotty kernels that hardened before I harvested (oops!).  The entire crop also suffered “laydown” (common for corn in wind) just after I returned from vacation and I had to stake the stalks to get them to stand.  This year I learned about seed expiration (many did not sprout).  If you read the packets, it tells the planting year and how long it should remain viable.  I bought new seeds to plant this year.  The three rows were going well until the kids were “play fighting” and to my horror Loki jumped the fence and landed on top of the small stalks.  I added to the height of my fence, reset the plants I could, and replanted the ones that had been snapped, as well as several that had not sprouted.  The corn was growing well and began producing tassels (male) and silks (female ears).  Then two weekends ago a tornado cell passed over town and the winds caused another “laydown”.  I again staked what I could and hoped for the best.  When I checked the corn last week there was a large mushroom (false parasol) growing among the stalks.

When I went online, I found the false parasol (Chlorophyllum molybdites), commonly known as the green-spored or green-gill parasol, and vomiter, is a common species of mushroom found in temperate and subtropical meadows and lawns.  The species is poisonous and causes serious vomiting and diarrhea.  The cap (pileus) ranges from 3.1 to 12 inches (8 to 30 cm) in diameter and is hemispherical with a flattened top.  The cap is whitish in color with coarse brownish scales, with white gills that turn dark and green with maturity.  The stem (stipe) ranges from 2.0 to 12 inches (5 to 30 cm) tall and bears a double-edged ring and lacks the snakeskin pattern generally present on the edible parasol mushroom (Macrolepiota procera).  The flesh is thick and initially firm, although it softens with age.  The false parasol is the most consumed poisonous mushroom in North America as it is often misidentified as an edible species like the shaggy parasol (Chlorophyllum rhacodes) and parasol mushroom.  Fruiting bodies generally appear after summer and autumn rain.

The summer rains did bring out the large mushroom among my corn, as well as another in my next-door neighbor’s yard.  When I used Google identification it said the mushroom was a giant puffball (Calvatia gigantea) which is said to be very tasty.  I love mushrooms and I had visions of sauteing the firm flesh in butter and garlic.  As the round cap matured it flattened and the edible giant puffball morphed into a poisonous false parasol.  The large white puffball mushrooms are edible when young, as are all true puffballs, but even they can cause digestive issues if the spores have begun to form, as indicated when the pure white flesh begins to turn yellowish or greenish-brown.  An overripe puffball will fall apart and release spores when touched or if cut open and should be discarded.  I was glad I waited or I may have been another victim of mistaken identity. 

THOUGHTS: False parasol mushrooms are sometimes called fairy ring mushrooms as they often form fairy rings, a naturally occurring ring or arc of mushrooms.  Fairy rings are the subject of much folklore and myth worldwide, particularly in Western Europe, and are alternately seen as hazardous or dangerous places linked with witches or the Devil, or as a sign of good fortune.  Mine was a single mushroom so I will have neither good nor bad luck.  I am two days out from the maturation date on the package suggested for my corn.  Since I already had the laydown (bad luck), I am hoping for a good harvest (good luck).  Farming is not easy.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Goliath

June 13, 2026

I came across an article on my MSN browser on a gigantic tadpole discovered in 2018.  The Chiricahua Mountains on the Arizona-Mexico border is famous for the Chiricahua leopard frog (Lithobates chiricahuensis).  This leopard frog is listed as a federally threatened species that is on the decline due to habitat loss and invasive bullfrogs.  A research team was draining a pond when they discovered a massive tadpole in their nets.  This was a bullfrog (Lithobates catesbeianus) tadpole that never metamorphosed.  Herpetologists are unsure why Goliath was stuck in tadpole limbo but believe it is due to a hormone imbalance, specifically a deficiency of a hormone essential for metamorphosis (thyroxine) combined with an excess of growth hormones.  The beast was taken to the Southwestern Research Station before dying in 2019.  The tadpole will be preserved by scientists so they can better understand what caused his mysterious condition.  Researchers had appropriately named the tadpole Goliath.

When I went online, I found there is a species of frog named the goliath frog (Conraua goliath), also known as the giant slippery frog and the goliath bullfrog, in the family Conrauidae.  The goliath frog is the largest living frog.  Specimens can reach up to about 18 inches (45 cm) in snout to vent length and 9.9 pounds (4.5 kg) in weight.  The species has a relatively small habitat range in Cameroon and Equatorial Guinea.  The goliath can live up to 15 years in the wild and up to 21 years in captivity.  The primary threat to the goliath frog is hunting, as it is considered a food source in its native range, although other predators are possible. The frog is also threatened by habitat loss and degradation, and they have been extensively exported to zoos and pet trade but have proven shy and nervous in captivity.  Although captives may live longer than their wild counterparts, the species has not been bred in captivity.

Goliath, the tadpole, did not undergo the normal metamorphosis where their tails are transformed into legs and development of adult frog features.  Despite remaining a tadpole, Goliath continued to grow, making it one of the largest tadpoles ever documented.  Its condition is considered extremely rare and provides insight into how hormonal imbalances can affect amphibian development.  The case highlights the delicate balance required for normal amphibian growth and metamorphosis. Researchers studied Goliath to understand the effects of endocrine disorders on development.  Cases like Goliath also raise questions about environmental impacts like pollution and habitat changes and their effect on the hormonal processes in wildlife.  Goliath was preserved by scientists to allow further study of its unique condition.  Its story serves as a compelling example of the extraordinary variations that can occur in nature and underscores the importance of monitoring environmental and hormonal factors in amphibian populations.

THOUGHTS: When I found that Goliath had died in 2019, I began to wonder why this popped up on my browser today.  A Copilot search gave me three possible answers.  It could have been as it was recently linked to a news or science article about unusual wildlife or amphibian biology.  Another explanation is a website or blog discussing rare animal cases or environmental science featuring the story.  Finally, it might have occurred via a browser ad or redirect or if my browser had been hijacked or exposed to unwanted ads, then it could have shown the page as part of a pop-up or search result.  Personally, I think it appeared as I seem to gravitate toward such article in my searches.  We are all being tracked for preferences.  This can make my searches more effective, if I do not care where this information is shared.  Hmm.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Cigarette Snail

June 10, 2026

While perusing my MSN browser I came across a post from the journal Sciencing addressing one of the worst ways to die.  During the summer people are drawn to the beach for the nice sea breeze and warm sand.  Rather than relaxing and trying to get a suntan (harder now with my SPF 50 sunscreen) I like to spend time walking along the shore looking for shells.  Melissa and her family did the same and we have several snail-shaped glass vases filled with some of the shells rescued and brought home as souvenirs.  The best time of day to collect is after high tide as the water recedes and the shells are deposited on the beach.  An even better time is after a storm has passed and more shells and creatures have been deposited along the shore.  The article cautioned to avoid picking up one particularly pretty, cone shaped shell.  The occupant resting inside this beautiful relic is equipped with enough venom to kill 700 people.  It is said that if you were stung by this snail, you would perish before you had time to smoke one last cigarette.

When I went online, I found the geography cone (Conus geographus), also called the cigarette snail, is a species of predatory cone snail that lives in reefs of the tropical Indo-Pacific and hunts small fish.  While all cone snails hunt and kill prey using venom, the venom of this species is potent enough to kill humans.  Individuals grow to about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in length, with the size of an adult shell between 1.7 to 6.5 inches (43 and 166 mm).  The color of the shell is pink or violaceous white, but occasionally reddish and has a mottled appearance with two irregular chestnut or chocolate bands.  This intricate brown-and-white pattern is highly prized by shell collectors.  Geography cones are common and occur in the Red Sea, off the coast in the Indian Ocean, and are indigenous to the reefs of the Indo-Pacific (except Hawaii), and off northern Australia.  The snail’s distribution is largely explained by the temperature of its habitat and alterations due to climate change are predicted to impact its distribution in the following decades.

There are over 600 species of cone snails that are not equally dangerous to humans.  Only two species, the geographic cone and the textile cone (Conus textile), have reportedly resulted in human death.  There is also rich diversity in the venom that these snails produce.  Their venom is generally characterized by peptides known as conotoxins. Each snail produces over 100 of these conotoxins, and only 5% of them are estimated to overlap among species.  Only a few of these toxins have been characterized fully, which makes development of an antidote a challenge. The complexity of the conotoxins makes it difficult to understand exactly how death occurs in humans.  While scary, there have not been a lot of human fatalities recorded.  A review from 2016 showed that there have been a total of 36 recorded cone snail deaths and researchers are unsure whether these deaths have been a result of cardiovascular damage or damage to the respiratory system.  Humans are fortunate not to be a target species for the cigarette snail, leading to relatively rare toxic encounters.

THOUGHTS: While a sting by a cigarette snail may be one of the worst ways to die, their toxins may lead to medical innovation that could save lives.  Researchers have identified a drug based on cone snail venom that was approved in 2004 to treat chronic pain.  Another potential benefit might be derived from the cone snail insulin, which takes effect more quickly than human insulin.  There are currently about 11 to 12 FDA-approved medications derived directly from animal toxins, with 100’s more in clinical trials and research, adapted to treat everything from high blood pressure to chronic pain and diabetes.  If you do not provoke (pick up) the pretty shell, the snail cannot kill you.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Nativars

June 09, 2026

Toward the back of my local Sunday newspaper was a USA Today article on the need to plant native plants to help pollinator insects.  This caught my eye as I have dedicated two of our flower beds        to growing native wildflower mixes and Melissa has increased the number of potted plants around both the front and back of our house.  The bed in front was planted last year with perennials, and it reproduced this year.  The bed to the north (not full sun) contains two small tables with succulents but I added sunflowers (Helianthus annuus), crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum), and red amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) to the rest of the bed.  All the seeds in the north bed were past their expiration, but I prepared the ground and sowed the seed on the off chance they would grow.  While not all the seeds sprouted, I was pleasantly surprised by the number and variety of plants that are now growing.  While the newspaper article stressed how native pollinators prefer native plants, it also mentioned how recent plant breeding has created hybrid plants known as nativars.

When I went online, I found nativar is a blend (portmanteau) of the words ‘native’ and ‘cultivar’.  A nativar is a horticulturally bred strain of a plant species which distinguishes them from their native counterparts.  These plants may have different genetic traits from those formerly prevalent in the wild.  The difference between a ‘nativar’ and a ‘cultivar’ is if the species is grown within its native historic range.  The goal of using nativars within their historic species range is to reintroduce their ecological benefit into the local ecology.  The ecological consequences and benefits of nativars are a widely discussed concept within gardening and horticultural communities, as the capacity of nativar plants to fit the ecological niche of their native counterpart may be manipulated during the breeding process.  Nativars are developed for a variety of reasons, including disease resistance, pest resistance, and drought tolerance.  Within the horticulture industry, nativars are often developed for aesthetic reasons, such as improving bloom and foliage size, shape, form or scent, along with improved growth habits for a garden setting.  Nativars are developed within the agriculture and forestry industries for improved yield, flavor and quality.  Finally, nativars have been developed for restoration purposes in hopes of re-establishing native populations.

One of the ways nativars can be manipulated during the breeding and cultivation process is the capacity for a plant species to fit the needs of pollinator species that coevolved to rely on them.  Pollinator visitation rates of nativar plants may be increased, decreased, or unchanged relative to their wild native counterparts depending on altered factors such as bloom time, color, and shape. Nativars that dramatically change the bloom color of the species compared to wild populations can disrupt the ability of native pollinators to recognize the flowers as a food source.  The ecological benefit of nativars for pollinators can also be reduced by diminished nectar, pollen production, and flower form.  Not all cultivars that alter the bloom color from the most abundant naturally occurring flowers result in decreased ecological relationships.  It depends on the resulting hybrid and the selectivity of the pollinator.

THOUGHTS: Nativars are hybrids created for humans and not native pollinators.  They increase the bloom size or even result in double blooms, but they can also cause the plant to be sterile or reduce the amount of pollen or nectar produced.  Since our purpose for planting wildflowers is to attract (and feed) native bees (genus, Apis) and butterflies (order, Lepidoptera) I do not plan on sowing nativars.  Why and how humans act depends on the desired outcome.  If we are not purposeful, we cannot complain about an undesirable outcome.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.

Vulture

June 08, 2026

Researchers at the University of Florida (UF) say invasive Burmese pythons (Python bivittatus) in the Everglades are facing an unexpected new threat.  A newly published UF study found that Black vultures and Turkey vultures have become significant predators of python eggs.  Motion-activated cameras are capturing the birds digging into nests and consuming eggs while mother pythons temporarily left to bask in the sun.  Scientists said the findings could help explain why the rapidly growing python population has not expanded even faster across South Florida despite the reptiles having few natural predators in the region.  The study documented vultures destroying nearly half the eggs in monitored nests, raising hopes that native scavengers may be adapting to help naturally suppress the invasive species.  Researchers said Burmese pythons have devastated native wildlife populations in the Everglades by preying on mammals, birds and reptiles since becoming established in Florida decades ago.  The findings, published in the journal Reptiles & Amphibians, suggest that native wildlife may be adapting to exploiting the destructive, invasive python as a food source.

When I went online, I found vulture refers to a bird of prey that scavenges on carrion. There are 23 extant species of vulture (including condors).  Old World vultures include 16 living species native to Europe, Africa, and Asia while New World vultures have 7 species and are restricted to North and South America.  Old and New World vultures are not closely related, and their resemblances in similar form or function are not present in the last common ancestor of those groups (convergent evolution).  A characteristic of many vultures is a bald, unfeathered head believed to keep the head clean when feeding.  North America has three species of vulture.  The Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) is across the US and South America and is moving north into Canada.  The Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus) lives in southeastern US states and into Mexico.  California condor (Gymnogyps californianus) is the largest North American land bird.  The species became extinct in the wild in 1987 when all remaining wild birds were captured but has been reintroduced to northern Arizona and southern Utah, the coastal mountains of California, and northern Baja California in Mexico.

Researchers stumbled on four vultures eating python eggs in the dense underbrush of the Francis S. Taylor Wildlife Management Area in Broward County, Florida.  This is the first documented case of a native Florida bird preying on an invasive python nest.  The event occurred in 2023 but was not published until this year.  The researchers used a “scout snake” with a radio transmitter to locate the nest and were coming to collect the eggs.  The vultures fled the nest when approached and could not be identified as Black or Turkey vultures.  The only other documented case of predation on python eggs was in 2021 when a trail camera captured a bobcat eating python eggs in Florida’s Big Cypress National Preserve.  There is a precedent for native animals learning to consume invasive species.  The Everglades snail kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) was near extinction when it started eating an invasive snail that is larger than the native snail the birds typically ate, resulting in a rapid microevolution to have larger beaks to be more adept at digging into the larger snail. 

THOUGHTS: Growing up in Kansas I saw many a Turkey Vulture, but it was not until we moved to Arkansas that I became aware of the Black Vulture.  The two species are often together fighting over carrion or swarming the skies.  The Turkey Vulture has a smaller red head and can find carrion with its excellent eyesight or with its sense of smell, while the Black Vulture has a black head and can only find its food visually.  While humans may appear divergent, we are all the same species.  We need to try and behave like it.  Act for all.  Change will come and it starts with you.