Pickling

June 18

I got excited last year when my cucumbers started coming up. We like to make cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) as an appetizer. I peel and slice the cucumbers and arraign them on a plate. Then I drizzle olive oil over them and sprinkle them with either Italian seasoning or a spice mixture called Slap Your Mama. I also like eating cucumbers on my salad. We often make a side salad for whatever happens to be the entrée. This is what I call a “full-blown salad” of lettuce (Lactuca sativa), carrots (Daucus carota), and bell pepper (Capsicum annuum). Melissa will add tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) to hers as well. My “easy salad” is just romaine lettuce with slicked cucumber. When the cucumbers began producing, I bought canning jars, vinegar, pickling salt, and a bag of dill pickle seasoning so I would be ready. Then I checked to see how to begin pickling my cucumbers. I found I had grown slicing cucumbers, not the pickling variety.

When I went online, I found pickling is a way to preserving or extending the shelf life of food by either anaerobic fermentation in brine or immersion in vinegar. The procedure typically affects the food’s texture and flavor. The resulting foods are called pickles. If the food is named, the name is prefaced with the word “pickled”. Foods that are pickled include vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, meats, fish, dairy, and eggs. Pickling solutions are typically highly acidic, with a pH of 4.6 or lower, and high in salt, preventing enzymes from working and micro-organisms from multiplying. Pickling can preserve perishable foods for months or even years. Antimicrobial herbs and spices, such as mustard seed, garlic, cinnamon, or cloves are often added. If the food contains sufficient moisture, a pickling brine may be produced by simply adding salt. Sauerkraut and kimchi are produced by salting the vegetables to draw out excess water. Natural fermentation at room temperature, by lactic acid bacteria, produces the required acidity. Other pickles are made by placing vegetables in vinegar. Unlike the canning process, pickling does not require that the food be completely sterile. The acidity or salinity of the solution, the temperature of fermentation, and the exclusion of oxygen determine which microorganisms dominate, and determine the flavor of the pickled product.

This year I grew pickling cucumbers. As usual I did not know how many cucumbers a single plant would produce. I bought a small six pack of plants and looked forward to completing the job I tried to do last year. Neither did I know when I should pick my pickling cucumbers. I knew for slicing cucumbers they were often 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) long. If I picked them too soon, they would not be ripe, but if I waited too long, they could be tough. I ended up picking fruits that were getting too large as well as what I thought were the ripe ones. When I prepared them for pickling, I realized the “right size” was determined by what would fit in the pint jars I was using. I cut the ends off the cucumbers. The blossom end has enzymes that soften the pickles, and I do not like it when the stems are left on my pickles. I was making spears, but since some were too long to fit in the jar I also ended up with pickle slices. I found that 6 cumber plants produce way more fruit than I wanted to can. I ended up pickling 8 jars today and will have more by the time I am ready to pickle my beets. Now I just need to figure out what to do with all my pickling.

THOUGHTS: It is often claimed that pickling cucumbers was developed for workers building the Great Wall of China, although another hypothesis is that they were first made as early as 2030 BC in the Tigris Valley of Mesopotamia. Ancient sources documented awareness around the nutritional benefits of pickling and the perceived beauty benefits of pickles. Cleopatra credited pickles with contributing to her health and legendary beauty. Perhaps it is a good thing to have 15 jars of pickles. The best part is sharing produce with others. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Crab

January 31, 2025

One of my NY Times feeds suggested a unique approach to stemming the advance of an invasive species which has taken over New England. The invasion is aided by the species being omnivores, scavengers, and cannibals, meaning they sustain themselves on almost any organic food. They have a high fecundity, with females releasing as many as 185,000 eggs a year. They survive in water temperatures from freezing (32F/0C) to 86F (30C) and tolerate sweet water zones where salt meets fresh. An adult can live more than 10 days out of water. Taken together, these characteristics explain why they were first documented along the United States coast in 1817 and continue their tour of the temperate world. The suggested remedy to control the European green crab was to eat them.

When I looked online, I found the European green crab (Carcinus maenas) is a common near shore (littoral) crab known by different names around the world. In North America and South Africa, it is called the European green crab, while in the British Isles it is referred to as the shore crab, or green shore crab. The crab is a widespread invasive species and is listed among the 100 of the World’s Worst Invasive Alien Species. The green crab is native to the north-east Atlantic Ocean and Baltic Sea, but has colonized similar habitats in Australia, South Africa, South America, and both Atlantic and Pacific coasts of North America. The adult crab grows to a carapace (back shell) up to 2.4 inches (60 mm) long and 3.5 inches (90 mm) wide. It can grow larger outside its native range, reaching 3.9 inches (100 mm) wide in British Columbia. The color of the green crab varies greatly, from green to brown, grey, or red. While this variation has a genetic component, it is largely due to local environmental factors. The crab feeds on a variety of mollusks, worms, and small crustaceans, and has affected the fisheries where it spread. The crab has been dispersed in a variety of ways, including on ships’ hulls, sea planes, packing materials, and bivalves moved for aquaculture.

In its native range, European green crab is mostly used as an ingredient in soups and sauces. Italian fisher people cultivate soft-shell green crabs (moeche in Venetian, moleche in Italian) and sell hard-shell crabs for their roe (masinette). Several groups in New England have successfully adapted these methods to produce soft-shell green crabs from the invasive species. Various groups have looked at using green crabs in cuisine. The Green Crab Cookbook (2019) was released and included recipes for soft-shell green crab, green crab roe, green crab stock, and green crab meat. Researchers at the University of Maine have actively been developing green crab products with the goals of driving business interest, stimulating a commercial green crab fishery, and alleviating predation effects. The same researchers developed a patty product made from minced green crab meat using restructuring additives (transglutaminase, dried egg white, isolated soy protein). Americans consume enormous amounts of seafood, and several favorites (like scallops, lobster, and salmon) can be too expensive for many households. The low-cost crabs are abundant, easy to catch, and are delicious, especially as a full-bodied stock that becomes the basis for ramen.

Thoughts: Some invasive species do not lend themselves to eating, but the European green crab is an exception. The one obstacle comes with the small size of the carapace. The tiny claws, legs and segmented body chambers people typically eat are difficult to pick. The small size is the one that has protected this crab from human consumption. The smaller make an excellent stock and seasoned and dried can be a crunchy hand food eaten whole, much like a potato chip. In the US, invasive species like the Asian carp (Family, Cyprinidae) and green crab are often seen as fertilizer, while they are eaten as a delicacy elsewhere. Climate change and invasive species might force a reassessment. The trick calling them something else and learning how to fix them. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Cabbage Roll

December 04, 2024

Last week I gave in and disbanded the remaining sections of my garden. That meant picking (hardly enough to qualify as a harvest) the last green tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and removing the vines from their containers. I am looking for a green tomato recipe (other than fried) as Melissa said she will not allow the last of the lot to go into more salsa/Pico. I picked the remaining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) and removed the final hill of plants. The beans had been bitten by the mornings of frost and had gone mushy and I ended up throwing them away. The only thing left was the three cabbage (Brassica oleracea) plants that had not matured enough to form a head. After I pulled them from the ground, I wondered what I could do with the leaves, as it seemed a waste to just throw them away. I made sauerkraut and Cole slaw from the four cabbages I harvested several weeks ago but wanted to do something different with this batch. That is when I hit on the idea of a cabbage roll.

When I looked online, I found a cabbage roll is a dish consisting of cooked cabbage leaves wrapped around a variety of fillings. This dish is common to the cuisines of Central, Northern, Eastern, and Southeastern Europe, as well as much of Western Asia, Northern China, and parts of North Africa (i.e., most anywhere except the Americas). Meat fillings are traditional in Europe, and include beef, lamb, or pork seasoned with garlic, onion, and spices. Grains such as rice and barley, mushrooms, and vegetables are often included in the roll. Fermented cabbage leaves are often used for wrapping in southeastern Europe. In Asia, seafoods, tofu, and shiitake mushrooms may be used, and Chinese cabbage (Brassica rapa) is often used as the wrapping. The cabbage leaves are stuffed with the filling and then baked, simmered, or steamed in a covered pot and generally eaten warm, often accompanied with a sauce. The cabbage roll can serve as the main course (often with mashed potatoes in Europe) or as a side dish. The recipe varies depending on the region.

I found a recipe on the Pioneer Woman website for cabbage rolls that said to start by boiling a large head of cabbage to remove the outer leaves. The small print indicated you could also use the large leaves that flaked off of the cabbage during preparation by boiling them in water for 2 minutes to soften. Since I only had leaves, I thought this might be worth a try. I made the stuffing combining hamburger, sausage, rice, and spices. Next, I boiled the leaves and laid them out on a towel to dry. A 1/3 cup of stuffing was placed in the leaf and tightly wrapped. The sauce consisted of crushed tomatoes, juice, garlic, and Italian spices. The recipe made enough (32) rolls for two batches for Melissa and me. I followed the advice and froze half prior to cooking and baked the rest (with all the sauce) at 350 F (176.6 C) for 90 minutes. I was unsure how the leaves were going to turn out (bitter) since they had not matured into a head. It made a delicious meal, even without the mash potatoes.

THOUGHTS: While I have tried my hand with stuffed grape leaves on several occasions, I have never made cabbage rolls. The cabbage leaves were actually easier to handle as they were stiffer than the grape leaves. Now that my garden is gone, I have reflected on the different ways I processed the fruits of my labor. This includes canning, freezing, and fresh produce in a variety of dishes. I would have never tried many of these dishes if I had not already grown the vegetables. I was pleasantly surprised how they all turned out. This reminded me to keep trying something new rather than being locked into what is known and comfortable. The same is true regarding the cultures and traditions different to your own. Until you participate, you will never know what you might be missing. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.

Roasted

October 28, 2024

I have continued to be amazed how productive our Kentucky pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris, var.) have been this year. They got a late start as the second sister and tarried through most of the summer, but the cooler temps have brought them on. I gave my niece a bag of prepared beans on Thursday and picked another 3 cups of prepared beans on Sunday. While I decided to flash freeze most of the quart bags of green beans for later use, I like the ability to go directly from garden to table. We had decided to put a mini-split HVAC unit on the porch to protect the succulents this year and while moving the racks on Saturday to allow the technician access I noticed several of the Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) I had stored on the racks on the porch had started to rot on the stem ends (obviously too warm). I ended up throwing two away but the other two were still good. It seemed this might be a good time to make some roasted vegetables.

When I looked online, I found there are many benefits to making roasted vegetables. This is not only a fairly hands-off method to prepare them, but you do not even need a recipe, just some good cooking oil and some salt. Roasting adds a savory depth of flavor only achieved once the amino acids and reducing sugars creates melanoidins (Maillard reaction), the compounds that give browned food its distinctive flavor. The bit of caramelization and crispy edges also add a textural delight. Boiled vegetables tend to be mushy somewhat bland, while roasted ones are slightly charred and sweet. Even salad greens like romaine can be roasted and transformed into more complex and intensely flavored versions of their fresh selves. The easiest way to roast vegetables is to cut them into similar sized pieces (for uniform cooking), toss them in enough oil to completely coat them. Lay them out on a baking sheet and sprinkle them with salt and pepper and cook them on the middle shelf in your oven at 400F to 450F (204C to 232C), until they are fork tender and have crisped up at the edges. The timing varies depending on the hardiness of the vegetables and can range from 10 to 20 minutes for soft yellow squash to up to 60 minutes for carrots and winter squash. The real length of time varies on how small you dice them.

I diced the squash into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces, cut up the last of my Yukon Gold potatoes (Solanum tuberosum, var.), peeled the smallest of my carrots (Daucus carota), and added a medium onion (Allium cepa) to round out the roasted vegetables. We purchased several seasoning packets from a spice store in Wichita and I added a packet of Tuscan seasoning to three tablespoons of oil to coat the vegetables. An online recipe suggested it only took 10 to 20 minutes to roast the mixture, but I was skeptical (see above). I put them in for 15 minutes at 425F (218C) and then checked. They were not done. I raised the temperature to 450F (232C) and put them back for another 15 minutes. They were perfect. Prior to making the roasted vegetables I made a pot of green beans. This was another simple recipe, with the beans mixed with two russet potatoes (store-bought and diced), another medium onion, crumbled bacon, and a Southwest seasoning mix. Melissa made a small corn bread to accent the roasted vegetables. The whole meal turned out delicious, and most of it was grown by me.

THOUGHTS: The roasted vegetables and pot of green beans were simple to make, but what made the meal truly satisfying was knowing it came (mostly) from my garden. It was nice to have some wins out of the time and expense put into raising the crops. Since I waffled on planting a fall crop, this is the time to start thinking about what will go into my garden next year. Like most of life, this is a process. Life seems to have times of frustration and times of satisfaction. The key is to focus on the latter and let the former slide away. Act for all. Change is coming and it starts with you.